drift2die

Hi.
I want to add a turbo to my fc but I want to know which way will be better. A single t4 62mm turbo, a sequential from a fd or two t3 35 mm turbos one overlapping the other one.I like the way one turbo overlaps the other one. I think it looks cool and that's the one I want to go for but I want to know how effective it is. I have a turbo II engine with a cosmos intake manifold and a power fc commander

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

This has bankruptcy written all over it,so this broke FC owner will let it fly so that some FD guys can comment on it.
Good luck.(my opinion,easy..go single..less headache.)

addition for edit: I said FD guys assuming it was an FD engine..woops..I think twins with an FD..ya..(Lola and Gretchen..ya baby...they had some nice..^*^...again WOOPS!).

But seriously, if you want to see a half decent setup of twins on an FC, look up Member: Brent Clement's build.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: I will be nice

I am trying to be nice, but the several beers this evening are not letting me, sorry styx. Your patience with this section astounds me.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If you don't send me a Beer Phil..you are Banned!

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

golly you are quick, any time brother. any time

drift2die

thank you man I'll be shore to check Clement's build and ones again thank you

Evil Aviator

What does "better" mean? Better for a tractor pull, better for a generator, better for drag racing, better for fuel economy, better for looking cool... ?

What does it mean to overlap turbos?

I need a beer after reading this thread, especially considering that it was apparently edited to make more sense.

drift2die

better performance in Speed hi rpm and horse power not drag raising street legal but whit power the performs well it my sounds dome but I want to get 300 to 400 horse power and as hi as I can go on rpm I have my engine street ported so it will ideal well I don't want it stalling on a stop but I want it to kick *** lol

drift2die

overlapping turbos



big turbo



sequential

Evil Aviator

I think I will let you answer this one because I don't have enough beer to do it.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Obvious troll thread, is obvious.

http://www.foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#other

because I am trying to be nice, I edited the link to the exact section to look!

go there, and read some of the performance theory books. I am under the assumption, that you have no idea what you are talking about. Or, if you do, are horrible at trying to explain it due to lack of any grammatical skill what-so-ever.

I am sure there are plenty of people willing to help you learn, but not when they have to read the garbage you type.

Not trying to be a dick here, but I am being a dick.

Beers in the mail boys, apologies

flaco

iTrader: (7)

Gt35R
60-1

drift2die

I'm sorry I'm not so good at spelling. I appreciate your trying to help me what I mean is what is the difference in a twin turbo vs a single turbo for a every day driving car I know a little in how they work in normal engines but rotaries are different thank you for your time

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

Don't let punks get to you and don't apologize. My spelling and grammar is weak too

My car is also a 6portn/a. I went with the BWs362 twin scroll .84a/r it's a big turbo for 400hp but its suits the needs for my next motor. And it's a best buy at $850 mike turbo.inc Florida.

I won't have it on the car until April. I'm also doing an rx8 6speed instead of the turboll. There pretty inexpensive and geared far better than the turboll, there just not as strong. Lots of people who have never tried it will tell you it won't work. I think it will be fine because I don't race every car I see and I know how shift.

drift2die

thank you man I appreciate I think I'm going with the twin turbo set up I will like to have your opinion on the type of turbo and size of them too if you can help me thank you

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

says the guy that spreads all kinds of miss information in the second gen forum, and has been called out by every respected engine builder on here. I believe you stopped responding after getting burned in the "save the rotary" thread... yeah.

But back to OP. Sequential on the s4/s5 series 13b is tricky and will cost you a lot more then a single. If money is no object and you like to tinker, it has been done/being worked on:

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...tions-1049819/

and

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...rsion-1050620/

and

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...first-1024501/

are a few recent examples to get you some ideas. There is a lot more to be found when searching in the 2nd gen section.

gt35r 60-1 single is another vote from me and what I will be doing with my build.


I am getting grumpy as I get older, and you caught me before my morning coffee.

clipto2000

a T04z 1.15 or 1.00 rear housing

thats my opinion and plus thats what im running on my fc

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'm starting to see a Trend here in the Replies,So if Playtime is all over we can get back to business. Gentlemen..
..STAY ON TOPIC..just post INFO.
Let's give the Poster of this thread some Respect and good Info..OK?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

take away all the other nonsensical stuff and we're left with this focal point.

here's the sensible answer. Archaphil concurred in addition to other advice he provided.

you can search any number of threads all day involving these units and try to argue the fact.


this simply suggests that your original question was no question at all. clinging to the one oddball post in this thread seems telling, but hey, it's your car and your thread.

what i WILL say is this:

1. i'm actually partial to the T04Z, as Clipto2000 suggested. i have always had a thing for that turbo.

that said, if i were to offer advice to you, i would endorse the 60-1 or GT35R as well. if you're interested in pursuing a BW unit or some other brand, then look for units with similar wheels and housings. i can't speak on the S362 off the top of my head, but this is the internet. research has never been this easy.

2. it is obvious that you're new to this stuff. so let me welcome you to the board and offer this. you're free to take it or leave it. 90% of the questions that get asked on this forum get answered as long as there are open minds and clear communication on both sides. i'm not going to tell you who to listen to and what advice to take, but it would behoove you to use the search function and resist the temptation to answer your own questions.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

A few months ago I was shopping for a turbo. I called people messaged people you tubed videos and read a nice write up about understanding pressure maps.


The only reason I picked the big BWs362 is its price and quality.
Garret is very expensive.
Holset not as nice as BW. From what I've seen
Turbonetics great prices but don't no much about them.
Precision turbo.recent manufacturing issues. Sad but seems true

Pm rotary evolution this guy is very smart I listen to him. And mike turbo his name was on all of the fast cars at pan am nationals and has the best prices.

Evil Aviator

OK, I think I have enough beer to answer now...

I assume that you mean the engine rpm. Unless your engine is modified for high-rpm operation, it will get destroyed if you operate it much past the OEM redline. I suggest keeping it below 8,000 rpm.

Those are twin turbos. The large size indicates a laggy high-boost setup common in drag racing or tractor pulls. The intake piping is not shown in the picture, but they may be run in parallel or series, and they may be sequential or non-sequential. Parallel means that both compressors feed the engine intake. Series (compressor staging) means that one compressor feeds the other compressor, which then feeds the engine intake. Sequential means that one turbo spins up before the other, while non-sequential means the turbos spin up naturally.

The exhaust manifold determines the placement of the turbo(s) in the engine bay. The "overlapping" is simply placement, and has little to do with the function. The picture of the sequential turbos shows an OEM manifold that has the turbos positioned end-to-end, which is just the way that the factory decided to place them.

A twin turbo setup for a street car typically utilizes two smaller turbos. Smaller turbos spool up faster than comparable larger turbos, but two smaller turbos are needed to supply the same amount of air as a single larger turbo.

Since the 1980s, there has been a lot of advancement in ball bearing turbos. A modern ball bearing turbo will spool up nearly as fast as twin turbos. A larger turbo will tend to have better efficiency than a smaller turbo, and a single turbo is less complicated than twins, so those who can afford a nice ball bearing turbo will tend to choose a single turbo over twins.

Turbo selection is a little different due to the rotary engine's strong exhaust pulse and higher operating rpm, so it is good that you asked about it. However, in general terms, turbos work the same on the rotary engine as they do on piston engines.

My vote is for a GT35R if you can afford it. However, I recommend that you talk with a professional turbo dealer to discuss your options.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

these are hugely key points that i simply felt needed emphasis, particularly in the context of this thread.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

At some point, you will probably need a ROTARY tuner. Find a local tuner and get ecu recommendations, advice about turbo sizing and other supporting mods that are necessary for your power goals. It's a lot easier to get a plan together when the person giving advice is personally responsible for the final product.

drift2die

I want to thanks to every one they reply to my post all it was helpful I will make post of my modifications so you can see what I went for