rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Hello, running into a few future issues I can't predict but asumiung the worse.

Plan is to run a 1990JDM S5T2 with twin Greddy Td05-16g on external wastegates at 10psi.

Now: that is do-able on Td05's 10psi their apprently good for 20. But Not sure how the stock ecu will take this. I can control fuel cut/fuel. But I cannot see how the boost will be effected with just a boost controller and adjustable BOV.

Anyone else want to bring up issues. Pretty much just change the stock to twins but the externalwastegates might not factor in as planned. (not sequental)

Id prefer not to go full ems, as I only find more work needed for simple issues...
It's been done before.

Spec's for the intrested:
S5 JDM N374
Small street port
2x 700 2x 820 denso injectors
Rpm rising rails
Tomei 255fuel pump
FPR
Fujita Engineering 3" dpback
Corksport/hks intake
Alum rad/ele fans

Parts:
Still need intercooler
Have twins w/wastegates/mani/dp/sensors

Electronics
HKS-fcon GCC /Fuel cut
Field Fuel pump controller
Greddy Boost controller
Turbo timer

I'll add progress: still open to all ideas and insight on this.

smokie

iTrader: (5)

run bigger secondaries maybe 1000 or 1600

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Yes, I did think about that, and it's quite important: But at 10psi-12psi I should be fine with 800's but If I ever want more boost I will NEED larger secondaries.

I hear the 550's are barely good for stock running 80-100%, With 800cc It will still run hard at 70-80%.

Working on the oil issues : Pineapple racing oil pan/ Racing beat pressure regulator.
Will need to relocate filter... This will get expensive

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Standalone ecu.10 12PSI on those turbos is not the same as a stock s5 turbo.Why going thru the whole process of updating the turbos if you cant really control and use them correctly.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

with the stock ECU? no....

you're doing things backwards. the stock ecu isn't a simple issue, it is the LARGEST issue.

yes, you can try to hack the ECU to work but piggybacks don't give all around good results as you have very little control over it. a standalone gives full control over everything, will make more power and do it with less risk to the engine.

and what lubrication issues? i keep hearing this from people who have been given misinformation from various shops. even the stock oiling system has been proven to work just fine for 500+whp. if you're worried about starvation during cornering the issue is a simple <$100 baffle plate. overworking the pump for marginal benefits just causes more problems. the twin turbos will use more oil but even they should not be scavenging the system, the FD/RE/20B uses the same parts and divides the oil to 2 turbos and does not have a problem with it, the 3 rotors have even more to cope with and do the job. stop buying into hype.

i haven't molested a single lubrication system with the exception of one 20B which had a cracked and very expensive to replace thick iron and a turbo'd REPU, including the 700+ RE engines. how many engines failed due to the "lacking" lubrication system? none, including the non turbo converted engines with the smaller/non hardened pump. on a '74 spec REPU i simply put an overdriven gear on the pump for more flow for the turbo(not an issue on the later engines).

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Plus there is some fabrication involved with the intake.......you have 2 build a Y pipe 2 joint the turbos.You have 2 make sure that is enough space for the flow meter,dual inlet intercooler and a lot more.There was a guy in here i think his user name was brent clement he did a twin turbo fc but with internaly gated turbos stock computer and it ran decent so it can be done with stock ecu but is not the correct way to do it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would never trust a 1980's ecu that gives no visible information to do the job. plenty of people have made it work but if a problem exists you likely won't catch it until it's too late.

with an aftermarket ECU you can monitor everything: ECT, IAT, ignition, erratic boost and any of a hundred variables which can make or break a car.

some people get lucky, some people don't.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

I read though all posts "Thanks".

Nothing I read was out of the norm, and very much the end result. Luck.
Including Oil system

and what lubrication issues? i keep hearing this from people who have been given misinformation from various shops. even the stock oiling system has been proven to work just fine for 500+whp.
(I get it Rotary Evolution)

The issue is as simple as a baffle and or proper oil changes. 99% is "YOU GOT TO RED LINE IT OR your apex seals will go", ok??? Sure! that guy does. BUT!!! he doesn't think about changing his oil then KER-PLEWEY.

I was heading in the direction ofthe S5 JDM N374 Oil injectors the Question being one? and would one need to Increase Oil pressure at the minimum?

Those being asked to due the required, Oil cooling on 2 small turbos. Frankly I would assume just more heat and oil changes or baffle plate.

"AS FOR ECU", I'll roll the dice lol. It was done 20 years ago I'll play hard ball, and learn a lesson or be #1 at something FYI, will go big then go home then go easier route. ... Somehow they did it in japan for years before someone decided it would be easier to make a streamline, do it yourself version. (MY REASON... I don't live in the states where tuners have reputations to uphold and show no signs* lack of knowledge)
I would think you'd agree with my choice then.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

I attempted with a haltech and realized I was 100% right, but the "tuners", who previously owned previous cars had ZERO experience with turbos gave up and went v8's because of obvious reasons. Seems to be the norm.

My options or try lady luck or burn my money in the pit of hit and miss.
Put it simple Luck or Luck. HMMMM

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Whatever I may do with this build is unknown could be very cool or very lame but I will put up pictures so people can see parts that have been discontinued.

SO Greddy twin turbo kit for the FC3S

Postimage.org / gallery - DSC 0053, DSC 0056, DSC 0057, DSC 0058, DSC 0059, DSC 0060, DSC 0061

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

So not sure on the twin turbo manifold, Isn't same as the FD3S kit manifold but only welds are on the flanges rest is bent....

The down pipes are pretty rusty but I havn't picked at anything but theirs enough meat for me to sandblast and re-wrap in fiberglass. Im happy with the purchase, the lines where all cleaned out and no shaft play. (needs rebuild still)

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

just get everything media blasted,coated and then heat wrapped.Turbos get them rebuild.Other than that looks very solid for me..........i will like 2 try a kit like that on my motor.

this Nissan sounds funny

What's the AR on the hot sides of those turbos? I have a set 18Gs with 8cm housings and you got me thinking now.

Don't wrap that manifold. Trust manifolds of that era were known for cracking. The alloy and the wall thicknesses were inadequate and every one I have ever encountered was cracked. Wrapping it will make it crack that much quicker.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

hmmf unclear 49-60 on the HS, All I'm aware of is the kit being rated for just under 400whp.

This build is getting a little harsh to deal with: rather then me buying a small t4 with internal waste gate and then calling bolt on "hardcore"... Lameeeeee

It came wrapped but it's around 3/8 to 1/2inch thick so im goood, no cast iron to worry much on.

Cast iron abused and then re-abused is scary in my opinion.

dinel

If there is one thing I have learnt from my build its that if you are still learning about tuning this platform then dont try to be different. Go with what others have proven works and ultimately what is well supported on this forum. Given that this type of tuning was commonplace 20 years ago and now is virtually non existant on single turbo builds... this tells you something about how they stack up.

This is not a game of chance as its a certainty that your tuning solution will be inferior and perform as such.

Feel free to pinch pennies in other areas of your build but not this one as it will cost more in the long run to rebuild your engine!

nofords

iTrader: (9)

What ^^^ said!

There are some people around here that very strongly encouraged me to do what you are suggesting. They tried running the same on their car and it ran properly once in 5 years and 3 engines.

I went "my way" and made gobs more power and was easier to spot a problem and fix it.

this Nissan sounds funny

On Trust turbos like that it will be a number stamped on the entry. It's a whole number like 6 or 8. For a rotary I would expect a pair of 8CM.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

7 and 7. sorry.... Took while to find their stamped alot: only model numbers where cast so I had to guess.


Hmm, it seems everyones input is 100% correct on the build but don't worry... It's more of a no boost low boost I won't be beating on it with twins... *don't believe in Redlining is good for seals*, sure not good for turbos.

I got 18" 10.5 front rims... if that puts the build into perspective. Plus id bet on it I well learn more with the twins then with the any other route. I got plans on stock s5t2 fc for the future for those to keep in mind. .... Cars to low to hoon 1" cross-member clearance ain't something you do twice.

Keep throwing them at me though, I get it... It's like I'm asking for problems. It's gonna be a pretty pig.

brian_skotch

iTrader: (6)

Lol about the redlining comment. Once you get into boost and those bad boys spool hard you're gonna redline it weather you want to or not! That being said, it's a sports car, drive it how it's supposed to be driven.

With a properly built engine, all the supporting mods, appropriate gauges, and enough cash, you'll have a hell of a car! A proper ecu with a good tune is a must! And don't listen to these guys telling you to go single and be like everyone else. I think your build will be a hell of a lot more fun when you take the road less traveled.

this Nissan sounds funny

I just found one of these twin turbo manifolds with a pair of 8cm TD06-19Cs on it. I should be picking it up today.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Single waste gate? Hmm only other one I've ever seen was in Australia.

I'm stalling on my project but soon as I can I'm tearing apart the manifold and grinding down the exit path to waste-gate as these manifold are rough cut to the waste-gate. No problems as it's very thick but if it ever does break off a chunk of thick steel will do some damage.

Update: ... Holding onto the kit for a realistic build with higher quality parts and new chassis.


New parts: ORC clutch 409 Kit <--expensive wowza

Planning on buying parts off Pineapple garage
Crank angle sensor Cover
Aluminum FC oil pan
a 2nd Mishimoto 10" Fan (FYI These work amazingly well lots of pull and push)

... Also good tip for some a Brand new Turbo II manifold gasket OEM is only $38.00 from RHDjapan compared to $70-100.

this Nissan sounds funny

Yeah, single gate Greddy manifold. I'll never actually use it. I just like collecting odd stuff like this.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

UPDATE: Have now acquired a POWER FC for my N374 ECU, so got myself a standalone with harness ready to start up this bad boy!

So I did listen and did the obvious, it was never a fact of lack of knowledege but a cost issue.
Though looking into the HKS PFC theirs been people using those for 9 years+ and still working just fine. But that again is 99% reliant on the fact they have the kits used for their ROMS as indicated my hks.

gorillabrothers

iTrader: (2)

What's the update on the build?

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Going Standalone: purchased
Pending on: Pineapple racing oil pan

Project it self is under 3 feet of snow, once thawed: Will most likely switch to a new RHD Chassis, untill a Clean TII Vert comes along.

Aside from that Depending on next few weeks I might go T04E over TD05. If that's the case I'll update. With a new build and scrape this thread. A twin turbo project it quite a handful to comprehend, not even building it.