kelldog44

So I recently (as in 5-6 months ago) purchased my first FD. Since then I have been unable to drive it because of problems with the engine that I have yet to completely diagnose. I think that my problem is bad water seals but I am not sure.

Symptoms:

• Check Engine Light - 13
• White Smoke comes from the exhaust
• Oil leaks from underneath the engine while sitting and being driven. The more the car is driven the more oil it loses.
• Car struggles severly under load. I can barely coax it to go above 25 mph without killing it.
• Water is also leaking I just recently noticed, it was sitting separated in the middle of the oil puddle

Any expert help would be appreciated because I have this feeling that I just perfectly described my problem, but I am to much of a noob to realize what the problem is. I'm hoping that it is blatantly obvious to someone else because I am hesitant to take it to a shop who probably knows less than I do. Thanks for the help, Kellen

con-3-fc3s

Damn!!.. Hopefully you didnt get ripped off, you just got the car and its giving major problems. Ill have a good shop take a look at it. Or you can take out that motor and tear it down before it gets worse. Goodluck buddy!..

rxat2012

iTrader: (3)

how bad is it smoking and wht color is the smoke... does it over heat?

Eduardo Santos

Do you mean that, the car loses more oil when being driven than when it's just sitting?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

"White smoke" is really just steam. It probably has a slightly sweet smell too, which is just the burnt coolant. And yes, typically that's a coolant seal.

CODE 13 is the boost sensor....located on the firewall just aft of the throttlebody. IIRC it's labeled "sensor boost" Either it's unplugged or bad. Should also have a single vacuum line running to the manifold. A good used one isn't much. And it's likely the IMMEDIATE reason the car runs so poorly. Regardless, if you have a failed coolant seal, that requires a rebuild.

As for finding the source of leaking coolant and oil, the simplist thing is to get under it and look. Just guessing, but my first suspect is the oil pan for the oil leak and turbo coolant lines for the coolant. Both will be easier to deal with when the engine comes out for a rebuild.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

You're fortunate to have a really good rotary specialty shop relatively near you in Pierceton IN ........ http://www.banzai-racing.com/

kelldog44

Ya I pretty much new it would need a rebuild when I bought it. And thanks for the advice at the shop, ill probably end up taking it there for them to have a look at. And one other question. I actually did buy a new MAP sensor and installed it, but when I put the vacuum line back on, I put little top-hat shaped filter to the sensor on backwards and turned it on and the engine code was still showing. I figured out I had it backwards and flipped it but its still showing the engine light. Would running the engine with that piece backwards have ruined the sensor or no? Thanks!

kelldog44

Yes

Eduardo Santos

Hum... Maybe there's a leak in the oil metering pump? Or one of it's hoses?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I don't think so. It's just that...a filter.
Have you tried clearing codes yet? (i.e. disconnect the negative battery terminal and push and hold the brake pedal for 30 seconds). If you have, is it possible you have more than one code?

I've only bought some things from Chris Sanders @ Banzai Racing, but from what I've read of his posts here and the help he's been to ALOT of forum members, I'd be comfortable taking my car there. Just wished he wasn't 10 hrs away.

akagifc

does it smoke the whole time while its running? and is it thick white smoke

kelldog44

So I've determined that the oil leak is from the pan and that the smoke is coolant as you said being burnt. Still haven't found the coolant leak but that's because the motor is in the way which leads me to my next questions.

I have Bruce turrentines video about rebuilding the 13b and all the 93 workshop manuals. Unfortunately my FD has been worked and tthings are change, replaced, or just flat out missing and its makes the engine removal diagram very hard to follow and Bruce's video is for the FC. Are there any guides/threads to the removal of the FD engine from the car or tips?

Gringo Grande

iTrader: (97)

Living near Banzai...those guys will take care of you. One the absolute best shops I've ever dealt with in regards to price, quality and customer service.

kelldog44

I know this varies, but on average what would a rebuild cost from them?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

A guess, for a full R & R with rebuild and all the trimmings.......probably $4 to $5k. Call and they could probably give you a better idea. Not knowing the condition of the internals, it could vary alot.

You might save about half if you can do it all yourself. But understand that it's often not the short block rebuild that's the hard part. It's the proper re-assembly of the longblock stuff, with the sequential system that can be the biggest stumbling block. It also takes tools...some of them specialized, a clean place to work and patience. It also takes money even when you do it yourself.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Just email sales@banzai-racing.com and Elaine will give you our standard quote to look over. You might want to schedule an inspection, sometimes it is something simple. You said that your car is missing parts, I will be able to tell you exactly what you do and don't have, what the obvious problems, and give you an idea of what it will take to get running correctly again.

rx-7PRIDE

if the car was bought originally knowing there would be some sort of rebuild involved why are you not ripping the motor down urself to check at minimum the rotor housings and rotors them selves if not checking the rest of the internals

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Because for alot of owners that would just lead to more frustration, a sub-par job, down-time and expense.

OleMarius