sharobious

Background:

It is 1988 Turbo II, It's actually 3 different cars pieced together into a full s4 turbo II swap. It was sitting in my driveway for about 3 months after a coolant issue in an Ice Racing event. After sitting for that long it wouldn't start due to it being flooded. I dried the plugs and all was good. There was a pre turbo exhaust leak, which I fixed. But that was discovered after I took the BACV, Air Control assembly (the mess of components on the lower intake above the turbo.

Once I put fixed the leak and reassembled everything back to the way it was, the car started rpm's jumped to 3k (normal) and then bounced up and down between 1k and 2k and died instantly. I tried adjusting the BAVC but, thats not helping at all. Then I guess it flooded, so I deflooded it and it started again, but continues to die. I figured it might be a vacuum leak, but I checked all the hoses and their good.

It just doesn't make sense to me. Can anyone help me out? We want to be able to race her in next weekends AutoX.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

90% chance you created a vacuum leak. Check more than just hoses. If you had any of the manifold pieces off, leaks at the gaskets are common if they were reused. There's also the carb cleaner trick, which means spraying carb cleaner around potential leak spots while the engine idles.

sharobious

Thank you! That makes sense I'll reseal the gaskets of the things I removed and put back on. Does the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold have a gasket? I know when I slid it up I didn't see one.

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

Yea, you're missing a gasket. Any manifold to anything else should have a gasket.

sharobious

Alright problem solved, but a new issue arose. After driving it (drove good and hit 2 psi of boost), and then shutting it down and waiting a lil while it won't start. We did the deflood procedure, and it went to start again and it started. So does anybody know why its flooding its self out.

Marx-7

Probably leaking injectors which is a common issue when it floods. Get the injectors ultrasonicly cleaned or do it the cheap way and install a "killswitch" but that doesn't fix your problem.....

But if you use the car for racing i don't think you go for "the looks"

Marc

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

Rotaries flood for many reasons. Do a compression check. Oh and you should be hitting at least 4 psi minimum. So you are not out of the woods on the boost leak thing yet either.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Hot start explanation: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/looking-car-has-hot-start-problems-499744/

A super rich start map, 8.5: 1 CR rotors, and less-than-new compression can make hot starts difficult.

sharobious

Yea there's still an exhaust leak at the turbo to manifold flange. I'm pretty sure its just the gasket. Also the car already has the MazdaTrix fuel line bleeder kit. I drove it around today put it through some paces. Then shut it down, waited 5 mins and she fired right up, with alot of smoke coming from the exhaust smelled like alot of fuel was being dumped. Which makes sense with the Hot-Start map. I can't wait to see how she does on Sunday.

sharobious

Another issue has arisen, after driving it today its boiling the coolant after I shut it down. Alot of steam is coming from the overflow reservoir. I've burped the system 5 times, and did the check procedure to see if there's a leak internally. It checked out good, but its still boiling the coolant and smells like coolant is burning. The factory temp gauge always reads in the top of the normal temp box and sometimes goes upwards of the box. Apparently the waterpump was replaced by the Ford dealership here. But it doesn't look new. We have a Koyo radiator that we were waiting to put on. So I'm thinking about pulling the waterpump off and replacing it. I want to switch to an electric fan. Also the upper radiator hose has a lot of pressure "kinda like it wants to burst". Is that normal?

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

Under hot conditions the upper radiator hose will become pressurized. It is at this point where the radiator cap opens and dumps coolant into the reservoir. Make sure you have the appropriate strength cap. Also if you are going to be running a Koyo you will need the e fan as the stock finger-cutter prolly won't fit.