No Spark
03-12-12, 09:13 PM
#1
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No Spark
well i have searched and searched for two days and im giving up and asking you guys for help. so here is what i have s5 tii engine with emissions removed, s4 tii wiring harness with s5 charge wire in it. the black/white one that goes the the 80 main relay. i have rtek 2.1 the shell is 87 na so now my problem is there is no spark and no power to the coils. i think maybe no power to the ecu also. i have looked at wiring diragrams and im not the best at them but im just more confused now. so here are my questions
1. what color wires are the ones that are suppost to have power going to the ecu
2. why no power to the coils
3. why is my palm not syncing to my ecu
any help with my proublems would be great. and yes i HAVE searched for two days trying to figure this out
1. what color wires are the ones that are suppost to have power going to the ecu
2. why no power to the coils
3. why is my palm not syncing to my ecu
any help with my proublems would be great. and yes i HAVE searched for two days trying to figure this out
03-14-12, 10:50 PM
#2
The power wire for the ECU comes from battery power off a 30 amp breaker in the front breaker box. The wire runs to the ECU through the FEM-02 connector. It should be shown on the factory wiring diagram, which is the one to use and is available here. The Haynes and other diagrams are not worth your time and confusion in my opinion. The wire on the engine side of the connector is Blue and Red, the wire changes to White and Blue on the ECU side. If you have no power to the ECU (or no ground), the coils will not work as they're controlled through the ECU. This is the same for both the NA and Turbo models. The good part about the factory diagram is that each section has three parts. The exploded view showing the circuit, a listing of the shapes and wire positions of each of the pertinent connectors, and a location view on the car of where the connectors are at. It will also show where the power is being picked up from in the front of the manual with explanations of what you're looking at. I swapped an 87 NA and complete (engine, front, and rear) 87 harness into a 79 SA, so I've become rather more intimately familiar with the FC diagram than I had planned at first. As for question 3 I've never messed with the add on electronics so I'm not really competent to even hazard a guess without misleading you. Hopefully some of the guys that are using the RTek or similar equipment might be able to answer for you. I hope this helps, wiring diagrams can be intimidating but the factory FC diagram is one of the best I've ever seen, and actually explains everything you need to know in the directions at the front.
03-15-12, 06:25 AM
#3
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ok i replaced my main relay and now i got spark but only from the leading coil. and only when i bump the key not when im turning the car over. im going to see if 5v at the tps and how many volts i have at the coils. i think maybe my cas is going bad or im loosing volts during cranking. but ok where can i get the facture digram at
03-15-12, 02:19 PM
#5
You can get the manual at Sgt Fox's site (He's the moderator for this section) It's at:
HTTP://RX7.FOXED.CA or just click on his name. He's got a lot of good info on his site.
You must be running an automatic, the manual transmission doesn't have a neutral safety switch to my knowledge. The 87 and newer cars have a switch on the clutch pedal that breaks the strarter circuit unless the clutch pedal is depressed. The diagrams would be your best bet for locating the switches.
The coils should be picking up power from the main relay. The main relay uses the IGN1 circuit to activate (which should be on when running as well as starting) It will shoot battery power from the Black/Green wire to the Black/Yellow wire which goes to the coils. If you have power to one coil you should have power to both unless there's a break in the B/Y wire. If you have power into the trailing coil but no fire it might be the igniter, which generates the spark. Check to see if the main relay is activated during both starting and running positions of the key, if not you'll have to start tracing wires to find why it's not getting power from the IGN1 circuit. As always make sure you check all your grounds. Bad grounds are a common and nagging problem on RX7s which will make it do really strange things.
HTTP://RX7.FOXED.CA or just click on his name. He's got a lot of good info on his site.
You must be running an automatic, the manual transmission doesn't have a neutral safety switch to my knowledge. The 87 and newer cars have a switch on the clutch pedal that breaks the strarter circuit unless the clutch pedal is depressed. The diagrams would be your best bet for locating the switches.
The coils should be picking up power from the main relay. The main relay uses the IGN1 circuit to activate (which should be on when running as well as starting) It will shoot battery power from the Black/Green wire to the Black/Yellow wire which goes to the coils. If you have power to one coil you should have power to both unless there's a break in the B/Y wire. If you have power into the trailing coil but no fire it might be the igniter, which generates the spark. Check to see if the main relay is activated during both starting and running positions of the key, if not you'll have to start tracing wires to find why it's not getting power from the IGN1 circuit. As always make sure you check all your grounds. Bad grounds are a common and nagging problem on RX7s which will make it do really strange things.
03-16-12, 09:39 AM
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well i think i have a bad cas because i have spark from the leading coil for one revulotion of the cas and after that i have nothing i will print out the diagram. also does it matter if im running a na body harness and battery harness but a turbo wiring harness trying to figure out this stupid wiring issue. thank you gysgtfrank for all your info
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03-16-12, 11:38 AM
#8
There is a difference between the Turbo harness and the NA harness. The diagram has both harnesses and when you look at the connector illustrations it will show some of the pins designated for NA, Turbo, and convertible models. The wires for each are usually different colors. This should give you the information you need to trace the differences. My project used the NA harness throughout so I'm not sure what kind of mismatch problems you'll be running into. The only advice I can give is to start seeing where the differences in the harnesses are with your coils, CAS, etc. It might give you the clue you need to figure out why it's not firing correctly. If it's like my problems were, it'll probably be something simple and you'll be calling yourself naughty names for not seeing it in the first place. If you think it might be a bad part you'll have to pull out the multimeter and see if the electrical values are correct. If it was working before the swap it's probably OK and it's something in the wiring. I know I got a heck of an education in wiring trying to trace down all my problems.
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