Acidia609

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys new to rotory but researched a lot.

I have a base gl model 88 s4 that I swapped to JDM s4 turbo. No PS. AC. I finally got it started yesterday but wouldn't hold idle and wont Rev past 3000 without stumble. I swapped the battery after warmed and since then its just dumping ridiculous fuel flooding the engine to not start.
I de flood it using two methods. Removing the egi fuse holding throttle wide open and cranking 20 sec. And ive tried the advanced method. Removing spark plugs, egi, cranked 20 sec. Added import Atf 1oz per rotor. Placed plugs and egi back in. The advance gave me better chance but still no luck.

List of mods/ what I got:
Stock JDM s4 with s4 turbo stock everything
Removed emmissions, air pump and tube and blocked off
autozone spectra home made intake with maf adapter
open exhaust from cat back. Cat hollowed.
HKS ssqv4
all fluids and filters changed and unused vac ports pluged. No leaks
All n318 sensors and Cpu and have a spare n333 Cpu ive tried and started with.

Problems:
1.) Flooding wont start after battery swap
2.) Started before but stumbling accelerate from 800 to 2k
3.) Wont hold idle (have to baby to gas pedal)
4.) Wont Rev past 3500 without popping/stumble

Num 1 being priority of course. Rotors have 95 and 93 compression on all phases please help if you have suggestions thankyou!

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Since it is dumping so much fuel in, you may have some fuel injectors that are stuck open.

Strap/secure the injectors to the fuel rails. Unbolt and remove the fuel rails. (There's an illustration of this in the 88' FSM. "Fuel and Emission Control Systems" 4B-74) - Obviously you do not remove the injectors or any of the fuel lines. Be sure to set some rags or something under the injector's fuel outlet nozzle, to absorb fuel in case they are stuck open. Jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector at the passenger side strut tower, near the AFM. Turn the key to "ON"... Not to "START". You'll hear the fuel pump running... Now go check the injectors to see if they are spewing/leaking.

If you do not have a Factory Service Manual, here is a link to the 1988 FSM "Fuel and Emission Control Systems": http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...TEMS_TURBO.pdf

Acidia609

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a bunch never woulda thought of that. Thanks especially for the manual. I wasted 16 bucks on Mitchell on demand. Ill post updates of the results soon. As far as now I tested the pin outs on the Ecu results are tested cold. Water thermos sensor is 1.8v cold. Air intake 2.1v. And throttle position 1.6v throttle closed. No trouble codes blinking dcc1 and dcc2. Only tps code comes on when throttle is opened KOEOFF

satch

iTrader: (1)

Measuring the TPS must be done w/the engine completely warmed up and not otherwise. If this is how you did it then the TPS would need to be adjusted to 1 volt.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

NOTE:if you have the injectors out on the rail, put the key to start and THEN jumper the fuel connector at the passenger side strut tower!!.I use a paper clip.It is easy to remove.
Sorry DWB but if he does it the way you posted as soon as he turns that key on fuel will start spraying.From the time that he walks from the drivers side to the passenger side of the car there will be a nice amount of fuel sprayed.
Precautionary and makes sense,no???

Acidia609

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. Ya, Ive read that you have to warm it up before adjust.. sadly if that can happen I would be 80% stoker right now... so I'm stuck measuring voltage cold. Ill adjust TPS to 1 volt.. Also ive notice if the TPS is held 3/4 pushed up or 1/4 from all the way down I here a solenoid click. Secondary fuel injectors? Also my trouble code dcc1 blinks Long...Short...Pause (TPS) if held all up or all down

Acidia609

iTrader: (2)

I ended up zip tieing from the plugs to the rail and injector to the hose to minimize movement as i lift the rails. Then I have a modified remote trigger start with a switch connected to the tumbler wires to engage the ON position (planning on doing home made anti theft later). So I can be right their and KOEOFF. Jumped and Results ended up not having any leaks or spurts.. just gargling on lower fuel rail ( primary?)

What else can cause it to drown out the motor? CAS hasn't been touched and thiers deffinatly the correct spark and new ngk r copper plugs. Would having open exhaust do with anything? Just a wild guess

Acidia609

iTrader: (2)

I may have found my problem... I just found out what that little whinnying box was under the intake.. sorry for being a noob. I left it disconnected cause I could find a plug that fits in their. My engine is equipped with purple top objectors. I read these are high impedance and must jumper 4 black wires on my harness...

My question is. Where is this plug located on my s4 Na harness? And what needs to be jumped?

mk2ninja

Okay so I'm having the same exact problem except I rigged a kill switch for my fuel pump so it dosnt flood the motor I found out that if I put the turbo ecu n333 on my na harness the car wond hold idle or work right for that matter. Out of curiosity I plugged in my non turbo ecu n327 and the car held idle perfectly fine and ran great but it would cut fuel after 5k because non turbo computer dosnt hold the injectors open long enough like the turbo computer. I read some where that the harness has to match the computer, so let's say you use a turbo computer you have to use a turbo harness, the turbo computer will not work with the non turbo harness. Now my question is can you repin the non turbo harness to work with the turbo computer? If anyone has done this please message me on where to put the pins cause I would love to have my rex running right oh btw the non turbo harness dosnt have the plug for that box that cuts fuel on start up that's why your flooding

satch

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ps-vss-550937/

satch

iTrader: (1)

The color can be confusing cause there are purple injectors which are high impedance and some which are low. The one's which are offset are high while the centered are low. A quick impedance test on one of the secondary injectors will tell you which you have. High are about 11 ohms and lows are 2 ohms. If you have highs then you group together the Brown wires and connect it to the Black/Yellow wire.

Post 3# https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...oblems-970442/

Post #16 https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...arness-883285/