magnaflow cat
03-23-12, 06:31 PM
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magnaflow cat
I just installed a new cat. Now my car wont start. Its installed with the heat sheild down(towards ground) and the air tube is on the pass side. Looks right. Or did I install it backwards, and would this give me my no start?
03-24-12, 10:42 AM
#2
03-24-12, 12:13 PM
#3
Would help if you provide more detail about 'won't start'. For example, does it turn over or not? Sound like it's trying to catch but won't? Normal cranking speed? Etc.
If all you did was change the cat, the ability of the engine to start or not start should not have changed at all - unless you disconnected the battery & didn't reconnect or didn't tighten the terminals.
Check with Magnaflow on the installation orientation. Air pipe connector should be on the pass side, but you could have it upside and backwards, which would still put the air pipe on the pass side. Even so, backwards cat should not prevent starting...it just wouldn't scavenge the exhaust gases properly. One thing you could check if it is turning over but won't start: I got a new cat & both ends were plugged with heavy paper. If that was plugging the cat entrance or got blown into the Y pipe, that would create high exhaust back pressure and might prevent starting.
Good luck.
Rob
If all you did was change the cat, the ability of the engine to start or not start should not have changed at all - unless you disconnected the battery & didn't reconnect or didn't tighten the terminals.
Check with Magnaflow on the installation orientation. Air pipe connector should be on the pass side, but you could have it upside and backwards, which would still put the air pipe on the pass side. Even so, backwards cat should not prevent starting...it just wouldn't scavenge the exhaust gases properly. One thing you could check if it is turning over but won't start: I got a new cat & both ends were plugged with heavy paper. If that was plugging the cat entrance or got blown into the Y pipe, that would create high exhaust back pressure and might prevent starting.
Good luck.
Rob
03-25-12, 06:43 PM
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Ah, sorry. Turns over twice, then dies. It never fully runs. I turned the cat around so it wasn't that. I deflooded it. At one point it ran for about 30 seconds, then died, and then never again. When I switched the cat, I replaced a crappy installed o2 wire, but I did it right... Could it be simple enough that the fuel pump not be getting fuel if it's on jack stands(1/8 of tank)???
03-25-12, 11:00 PM
#6
Could be fuel starvation from the jack stands. But if it was flooded, you're getting fuel. The O2 sensor might actually be the problem - well, the difference anyway. Maybe the idle mixture was adjusted to be slightly rich to cover up other problems (in other words, to get a stable idle) and the old O2 sensor was not reporting that to the ECU - allowing the mixture to stay rich. The new, correctly installed sensor might be doing its job resulting in the ECU trying to lean out the mixture & it dies. As a check, you can disconnect the O2 sensor. The failsafe for a failed (disconnected) O2 sensor is to not make any mixture corrections.
03-26-12, 09:53 AM
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It could be the fuel pump if the baffle in the tank is damaged.
Won't be the O2 sensor, as it is only used during light load cruise and ignored at all other times.
Is the AFM plugged in?
Won't be the O2 sensor, as it is only used during light load cruise and ignored at all other times.
Is the AFM plugged in?
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03-26-12, 12:02 PM
#9
Any possibility you accidentally split or dislodged a vacuum line in the area where you were working on th O2 sensor wiring?
Might be good, too, if you explain the reason for the cat change. Did you have problems (failed emissions?) before that you decided to change it?
03-26-12, 01:41 PM
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Changed the cat because one of the welds had a leak. Checked the vacuum lines. There is a black plug (green/blk wire) behind my alternator that's not connected to anything. But I don't remember it being connected in the first place.
Now to go find out what and where the "AFM" is and see if that's it...
Now to go find out what and where the "AFM" is and see if that's it...
03-26-12, 03:50 PM
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So, Im an idiot and didn't realize the battery was only putting out 10 sumthing volts. Charged it, fired right up. Guess it got low from me deflooding.
Thx for the help guys...
Thx for the help guys...
03-28-12, 03:25 AM
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Ok, maybe not. Went out to start the car and the samething again. But after a lot of reading and searching through the forum, and how much I think I'm having to deflood, I think it might be a leaking or stuck injector. I noticed one of the clips, on the harness, on one of the injectors was broken. It might even just be plugged in backwards, which is why the clip is broken, causing the injector to switch polarities...
Silly car, tricks are for kids...
Silly car, tricks are for kids...
03-28-12, 04:09 AM
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Could be bad alternator or bad battery.
Have you checked that your alt is putting out enough Current to keep the battery charged?
If the Alt. is bad, then the battery is just going to drain even when it is running.
Also a bad battery can cause have the same effect as a bad alt. Battery may die under heavy loads or every time you shut the ign off.
One last thing to check would be parasitic loads. Perhaps you have a "hot at all times" wire shorted to ground, or even just lots of corrosion on the battery. Causing it to drain down as it sits.
Have you checked that your alt is putting out enough Current to keep the battery charged?
If the Alt. is bad, then the battery is just going to drain even when it is running.
Also a bad battery can cause have the same effect as a bad alt. Battery may die under heavy loads or every time you shut the ign off.
One last thing to check would be parasitic loads. Perhaps you have a "hot at all times" wire shorted to ground, or even just lots of corrosion on the battery. Causing it to drain down as it sits.
03-28-12, 07:20 AM
#15
Also possible is that the alternator output is ok but not reaching the battery. There is a smaller wire (still heavy gauge) coming of the + terminal of the battery. It goes to the main fuse box on the strut tower to the 80A main fuse. Coming out of the fuse box is a same gauge black wire that goes through a single connector plug coming out of the harness bundle. This is on the front of the strut tower behind the battery. The other side of that connector goes to the alternator output terminal. If the connector on the shock tower is heavily oxidized / corroded, the alternator juice can't get through to the battery. Check it out.
03-28-12, 08:55 AM
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Injectors are non-polar, so it doesn't matter how the connector is plugged in.
However a broken one needs to be fixed. Could lead to intermittent operation. Having the injectors cleaned and flow tested is always worthwhile.
However a broken one needs to be fixed. Could lead to intermittent operation. Having the injectors cleaned and flow tested is always worthwhile.
03-30-12, 07:35 PM
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So the injectors are leading and trailing like the spark plugs. Since Im going to switch all the spark plugs to (I forgot NGK something) something I read here. Is there a single injector I can buy 4 of? Possible part number?
And my Taurus alt comes on Mon!
And my Taurus alt comes on Mon!
03-31-12, 10:09 AM
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An '88 vert should have 4 high impedance 460CC injectors. You can check the injector chart in the FAQ to verify your injectors match up to the assumed part numbers.
However you likely don't need to replace them. Any local injection shop can clean and flow test them for about $25 per injector.
However you likely don't need to replace them. Any local injection shop can clean and flow test them for about $25 per injector.
03-31-12, 10:57 PM
#20
An '88 vert should have 4 high impedance 460CC injectors. You can check the injector chart in the FAQ to verify your injectors match up to the assumed part numbers.
However you likely don't need to replace them. Any local injection shop can clean and flow test them for about $25 per injector.
However you likely don't need to replace them. Any local injection shop can clean and flow test them for about $25 per injector.
04-01-12, 10:20 AM
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Have ur battery tested at a local parts store. I work in a shop. And Ive seen a bad battery do some crazy **** including ur problem. If it's bad then change it and go from there. Voltage isn't the only thig that matters, it's cca also and u can have worn plates, etc. Rotaries have a hard time starting with a weak electrical system. Make sure the battery and starter is in good condition.
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