alphakami

So, here is the short list of my initial challenges with my project, and some of the things I'm looking for guidance on. It may also help to know that I've got about 1k available to get things moving, but I'm looking to get my head around the state of the project before I start buying things I'll eventually need. Even if I spend a few unnecessary dollars upfront to uncover the facts about what I've got to work with. I'm also seasoned at DIY, and have or can get access to most any tool that isn't a specific Mazda or rotary SST. I'm competent with electrical, good with mechanical, and have a reasonable understanding of the rotary engine.

I don't yet know the condition of the internals. A compression test is right at the top of my list, and I've found enough on the forums here to guide me thru that. My first issue is that I've gotten a key based off my VIN, and it doesn't operate the ignition, only the trunk and passenger side locks. Both of my door handles are trashed, so I'll eventually pick up a set of door locks and handles and ignition all keyed together. I don't mind sacrificing this ignition switch so I can start testing the car's electrical, but I'm not sure on the best to begin. Does the ignition switch have any serial numbers or anything on it that i could get a key made for it? Is there a simple way to 'punch out' the switch with a screwdriver so I can get ACC, ON, and START to function?

Next is that It's missing the ECU. It appears that all the stock wiring is there, and undamaged. However, this isn't stock. It's a single turbo conversion with some meaty looking parts. I need to know how to determine what type of ECU I need, assuming compression is good. It's got an upgraded IC, injectors, large Koyo radiator, and seems to have underdrive pulleys on it, but I'm not very familiar with the 13B-REW, so they could be normal sized and just 'pretty.' I've seen some tuned stock ECU's on Ebay, but I'm lost on how to make the determination of what I should be looking for. Any ideas there, or key parts that I need to specifically identify to work towards the solution would be very helpful.

I've located the proper wheel lock, so I can get to the damaged rear control arm/brake/hub. That one shouldn't be hard to figure out. Just in general I don't know what parts can be used from the JDM market vs USDM. It seems JDM parts are more widely available, but I'm not sure what the main components that can't be used on a USDM car, apart of the obvious LHD to RHD differences.

The tachometer is frozen at 2k RPM, which I've never seen. Anyone know why that could be? Just a curiosity there.

That's about it for the initial salvo of questions. The interior is trashed, but that should end up being straight forward when the time comes. Thanks for reading!

Tommykaira

iTrader: (2)

When was the last time your car ran?

I'd stay far away from tuned stock ECU's on Ebay, especially with the modifications you have. You're going to need to pay a tuner to set up a stand alone ECU and dial-in your car. The Apexi Power FC is still probably the most popular ECU for these cars, and used units are plentiful, but the best advice though is to find a shop that can tune your car, and buy the ECU they know how to tune.

alphakami

I can't be certain. 2016 or before, most likely, but can't get much of the history on the car.

I'll check into Apexi Power FC's on the used market and see what I come up with. That would entirely bypass my need for a stock ecu, correct? Not sure if the APexi has wiring harness adapters for the FD and that's how it plugs in, or not. Never messed with a standalone unit.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

A stock ECU won't run a single turbo setup. The Power FC (PFC) is plug and play with the stock wiring harness but will need to be tuned for your setup.

Post a WTB for a lock set when you get your post count up. The generally run ~$300 for a complete set

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

You definitely need a stand-alone ECU for that single turbo. Not just for the needed tuning but because a stock ECU...and even a “chipped” stock ECU will throw multiple CELs and probably put the car into limp mode.
There are multiple choices out there for a stand-alone. You may want to spend a evening or two in the Single turbo section and the Engine Management section. A PFC will probably be the most economical but I’m not a tuner. The big takeaway would be to NOT waste your budget on a stock or reprogrammed ECU.
http://www.banzai-racing.com/store_i...owerFC_FAQ.pdf

AFAIK there are no differences in suspension components from RHD to LHD. Strongly recommend you download a copy of the Factory Service Manual if you haven’t already. Available in the FAQ sticky. When you have enough posts you can place a WANT TO BUY in the parts for sale section with your needs. Note any sellers trader scores and time on the forum.

Post up up a pic of the pulleys, but if they’re “pretty” and you have a single they’re probably aftermarket. There are cooling issues that CAN arise with single turbos and aftermarket pulleys if done on the cheap.

As for the tach issue, there are some threads in the 3rd Gen technical section about various fixes. I’d start with an advanced search in titles only using terms like “tach fix” and see what you get.
As you progress with the car learning how to search is gold. I can’t think of any question or issue I’ve had with my car over nearly 17 years that someone else didn’t deal with before me.

alphakami

Thanks for the replies.

I've got a copy of the Factory Service Manual now, it's great to have that reference.

My roommate was able to pick the lock for the glove box last night, and inside was a Zeitronix ZT-2 with a USB dongle on it, and an FC Datalogit in there, so I suppose that's good news. As far I can tell, the LCD display for the ZT-2 isn't present. I'll do some more research for sure, but it looks like a PFC is my best move, after the compression test that is.

I'll certainly do some reading in the single turbo and engine management sections. There is a wealth of knowledge here, and for the most part it's time to start reading and searching. I've been provided with the key answers to get moving, and know much better where to look and search for the information.

Here is a pic of the pulleys and engine bay.

Sincerely appreciate the thoughtful responses!

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Yep, those are aftermarket/under-drive pulleys. From that angle I can’t tell if you have an aftermarket idler pulley. If not consider one. Without there’s not much contact on the water pump and they tend to slip, which often leads to guys over-tightening the belt.
Probably not a priority now, but something for down the road —-> https://www.pineappleracing.com/fdidlerpulleykit-2.aspx

XanderCage

iTrader: (1)

One thing I don't see mentioned is what injectors you've got. That big turbo makes me think the previous owner may have needed to upgrade from stock.

If they're not stock the car may be able to at least fire up (with either a stock or aftermarket ECU), especially if only the secondaries were changed. but I wouldn't do anything more than just start it until you know what you're working with.

alphakami

I can tell the injectors are aftermarket, but I can't yet tell what brand, or how much they flow. Fully agree tho. I've pretty much decided to go with a PFC, but I won't go boosting hard until I know what I've got and have learned how to tune it. I'm planning to keep the boost low and aim for around 300 HP at first while I'm getting the feel of the chassis. I'll get to do the compression test this Sunday, assuming my starter is good.

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