nosugar0carbs

Hello. I purchased an 87 t2 in rough shape a few months ago. The car wasnt starting, poor maintenance and neglected. After replacing all the fluids, sorted the electrical gremlins and fixed all the nonsense screw plugged cracked vacuum hoses i finally got her to start, whoo. After starting and me being happy momentarily she was cutting out after a few seconds of running and smoking heavily. I took down the UIM and inspected. I did a basic bench test of the injectors and found 2 of the 4 no operation, just straight leaking fuel with no power to them. After i purchased a set of remanned and flow tested injectors as well as coolant lines and a cap. After reinstalling everything she was purrring and staying on with minimal shake( i presumed she has bad engine mounts). THE PART I NEED HELP/GUIDANCE...... I set a base timing, lined up the cas, set the crank pully to the first mark( yellow or right most) everything lines up and she runs without moving the cas, when i hook up the timing light(harbour freight) as per the fsm, are the lines on the crank and the timing light strobing supposed to line up with the front housing crank pin? If the crank pully pin is at 12oclock, the leading coil is firing at about 9-10 is o clock. Car idls at 1k rpm, i dont notice any hesitation and pulls hard. Please, give me some guidance or a resolution. Thank you.......p.s this is my first official post since i know how to use the search function well and kinda dont require a reiteration from 1000 previous threads lol

nosugar0carbs

215 views and no one can assist on the timing?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Yes, the pin is supposed to line up with the mark on the pulley. are you sure you're on the right wire? should be the one labeled "L1" and that should go to the front rotor.

nosugar0carbs

I meant to send this yesterday, on rotor 1( front most rotor) i have the inductive cable on leading coil facing torwards the sparkplug, when the timing light is flashing it IS supposed to line up the marks on the pulley and the front cover pin? Correct?

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

You are correct, but there are a couple reasons it may not be:
1. The timing advances when the engine is over ~1k rpm. If you can drop the idle closer to 750, then the timing marks should line up. If you correctly stabbed the CAS, then it's going to be pretty close.
2. The front hub and its timing marks may not be the correct one for your engine. For some reason, there are different pulleys/hubs combos from the factory. Mixing and matching them can be a problem. Buying a new hub/pulley combo would be the fix, but probably isn't necessary at the moment.

nosugar0carbs

ill try to drop the idle a bit and recheck. Let me ask you, could i find TDC by looking into the sparkplug bores both leading and trailing, making marks on the pulley, and setting the CAS like that and use a timing light to adjust if necessary?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Last post


https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...17/tdc-760574/

nosugar0carbs

Ok guys, thsnk you for the initial help, after setting timing thank to fellow forumers( not a real word), there seemed to be an intake leak from the lower intake manifold someplace. I removed the uim and found a vac nipple not even blanked and no hose near it to plug it. Before i wrote this text, i searched about 10 pages and nearly fell asleep until my phone hit my face, yes, it woke me. Can i get your help on a simplified s4 turbo ii vacuum routing and capping. Almost stock with the exception of every emission component removed. THANK YOU

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

SIRI..smack me in the face!...
OK...how's that?...

nosugar0carbs

It luckily didnt leave a mark. Just a few questions please. I dont have a BAC, should i tap and die a fitting for the pressure sensor? Second question is refering to the oil injector air bleeders. I would have a hose routed from the nipple to a T that connects the two primary oil air bleeds and the same for the secondary air bleeds correct?
And mickeytfc that build of yours looks very attentive to detail. Very nice

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

1. There is a nipple on the back of the upper intake underneath the BAC so no need to tap.

2. The oil injectors come from a small spider with 4 ports on it originally. I have mine run from the source to a t that t's off again to go to all 4.

Thanks for the comment on my build! It desperately needs updating!

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

If you look at post #16 on my thread there is a photo of the layout of the oil injector vacuum lines