Zaldak

I have an 86 GX automatic, until recently has not run in over 5 years.

Replaced:

ecu (used)
fuel pump (used)
coils & ignitors (used)
spark plugs (new)
oil & filter (new)

after alot of cranking over, flooding. unflooding with egi fuse out, cranking more I finally got this car to start, it rev'ed up to 3000rpm and then leveled off around 900rpm (which I know is normal), there was a great deal of smoke comming out of it and so I shut it off.
It was still on old oil at this time and smelled bad of gas(most likely from so much flooding), cranked it over and started it twice more for less than 2 min each time and then let it sit for a few days, at which point I changed the oil and filter cranked it over a few times and could not get it to start just kept flooding out again.
the next day I decided to do the "ATF trick" pulled and dried all the plugs, removed EGI fuse cranked engine with gas pedal depressed 15 seconds, poured aprox 1 ounce of atf in lower spark holes put plugs and fuse back in place cranked it over and it started right up.

I let it idle and watched as the smoke started to clear, and then the car stalled out ran for aprox 5 mins, and I have not been able to start it since.

Can't seem to stop it from flooding, is there anyone with ideas as to what to look into next?

Thanks.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like a problem that occurs as the engine switches from cold to lukewarm so i would guess a sensor issue. try getting it running again and once it stalls leave the key on and pull codes from it.

Zaldak

Would I go about this in the way described on this site? http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep, i saw that page a while ago though i never actually made the LED tool, i bought the actual diagnostic reader but many people have used the dual LEDs just fine.

Zaldak

great thanks! how much for an actual tester btw? and where can i get one, Mazda?

also any suggestions before trying to start it again? if it keeps flooding I'm gonna have to change the oil again before its even had a chance to become used lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

might be able to find one on ebay, i don't know of anywhere that sells them new anymore but it is a generic import code reader for most mid to late 80's imports.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

The LED's work just fine. Even I could assemble/use them and I've never done any real electrical work before. Hell, I had to ask how to properly crimp...

Zaldak

I am not really worried about using making the led tester, was just curious since it was mentioned about acquiring the correct code reader. why not use the instrument designed for the job if possible?.

seems like it would be a pain to locate one thou so I will go with the led tester and mount it in the car permanently as the article suggests.

Karack: you suggest getting it running again letting it stall leaving key on and run the codes.

the car has only stalled the once in the 5-6 times i have started it all but the last time i actually shut the car off due to the heavy smoke coming out of it, and since i am stuck working on the car in the parking lot of my apt i did not want to just let it run while doing so..

after I changed the oil and and and started the car the smoke started to clear up however after about 5 min it stalled out and i have not been able to start it since, all it does is flood. is there any suggestions as to getting it going again? can I run the code led tester without first having the car running and just turning the key to on?
TPS and or BAC, would they be affecting anything as to getting the car running?

would it be a bad or good idea to keep trying the ATF trick? or should I just stick with the normal unflooding procedure?

It will be about 5 days before I can get around to making the LED code reader so anything else I can do in the meantime, lately I am spending my time unplugging connectors on the engine wiring harness and cleaning there contacts up.
I have a professional grade multi meter anything I can use it for in the ways of testing anything? I know it can be used on the TPS although I am having trouble finding instructions for an n/a automatic (the online version if the FSM is hard to navigate and follow)

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you don't have to have the car started first to check the codes, it just makes it easier in case the ECU recognized a fault before killing the engine.

my bet is there is a vacuum leak in the system, just small enough to flip the fuel pump switch in the AFM closed which is killing the motor. check around for vacuum lines cracked or broken off or knocked off or BAC/ABV lines to the intake hose knocked off. you can try jumpering the fuel pump test connector which is on the RF strut tower, 2 pin connector not conected to anything and the engine should run if that is the fault i am thinking of.

Zaldak

Sorry but I fail to understand how that would cause the severe flooding issue I am having?
I dont belive I have an actual stalling issue with the car, I just cant get it to start again since that stall happend, as it is the 5-6 times I have started the car it has taken well over 20 atempts at cranking over, flooding and unflooding to get it started each of those times it did run...

perhabs I am not being clear enough to get the full advice I am looking for to which I am sorry if that may be the case, I am trying my best to explain this cars issues with the limited knowledge of mechanics I have.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well, to tell the truth i rarely see these engines up and flood out while running unless there is a vacuum leak and a vacuum leak can also cause the fuel pump to turn off which is the reverse of flooding but both result in the engine not starting, which is why i suggested what i did since it is a common denominator for 2 stalling problems, the other possible causes are much more time intensive test wise so.... you can see why i suggested it.

Zaldak

Understand I fully appreciate everything you say and your time to actually bother trying to help me at all.

sometimes I need things broken down a bit more or need an understanding of "why" Im being told to test or look into a paticular area. its the only way I can learn and understand what I am working on.

toastiepenguin

iTrader: (3)

Did you replace the old gas? I'm assuming yes but just thought I'd ask.

O ya when your cranking the the car a lot make sure your battery is not draining too much, as that is what leads to flooding sometimes.

One more thing, why did you stop operating it 5 yrs. ago? Just couldn't get it to start?

Zaldak

Lol yes its fresh gas in it! tank was bone dry till I put the new pump in.

when I am cranking the car it is being boosted of a running Mazda Tribute as cranking it over on its own kills the battery very quickly when it dont start..

I did not own the car 5 years ago... but the reason it has not run in that time is someone did a self tune up on the car all those years ago and had no clue what they were doing (to his wifes car!) when he was done the car no longer ran, was taken to mazda and they told her it needed fuel pump and coils replaced, her husband had hooked all the spark wires up wrong and I guess blew the coils somehow in doing so I dont know what was wrong with the fuel pump at the time if anything, however when i got the car the pump had been removed by someone else who had tryed to fix the car.

I replaced the pump and the coils and still had no spark so started looking elsewhere for problems, anyhow when i finally got to the ECU I saw right away it had been fried to a crisp! so replaced it and gained spark! and is short thats to where I am now.

I rescued this car out of a field it had been sitting in for a year+
the car had been looked after its entire life reg service stored winters etc.. I was driving my GXL at the time and bought this GX just because maybe to use for parts fix and sell whatever... anyhow I dont have my GXL anymore and would like to get this one going and drive it till winter, sell/trade it and get another as I can not stand driving an auto..

as you can see from the pics the car is in beautiful condition.

Zaldak

Is this the conector you are reffering to or am I in the wrong location? facing the car this is the Right Front(^RF?) strut tower. I dont have any wires on either strut tower just close to them so want to be sure before I start sticking wires into conectors.

Balzz

I think that's the initial set connector. Fuel pump connector jumper thingie is on driver's right.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

No those green connectors aren't for the jumper.

THe jumper is on the passengers strut tower. Its a yellow, two prong connector with a boot around it. Sometimes the dangle down under the intake piping, have peek under there if you don't see it off the get go.

Zaldak

this would be the one then?
and just stick a single wire in the two slots of it?

toastiepenguin

iTrader: (3)

That 6 plug green connector that you showed in the first picture reffering to the driver's side of the car is the plug you'll want to use when you get your code reader together.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yes, just jumper that connector and see if anything changes.

the reason for doing so is it bypasses the switch in the AFM so even if there is a vacuum leak then the engine should still run until you can locate the leak, if it doesn't stall out with the jumper in place then my suspicion of a vacuum leak is even more substantiated.

Zaldak

Ok thank you will be trying the jumpering right after dinner and post if it changes anything, I pulled off each and every "dry" hose this morning to inspect them, pulled off the afm and checked it over all apear to be fine from visual..

Zaldak

does anyone think adding some premix to this car would help at all? being its sat for so long without running.. or with still haveing the OMP it would be to rich?

Zaldak

Ok cleaned the plugs dry, ran unflooding proucedure added ATF to lower spark holes, installed the jumper wire.

Car fired right up instantly and then stalled out, tried giving gas before it died which did not help..

car is now heavily smoking again (towards the damn apt building grr) and new oil smells of gas once again

should I try again now without the jumper? and/or look into something else?

HAILERS

http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

The digital diaognostic tester is about three quarters of the way down that page.

Click on its price. Two LED's cost about three dollars. The diagnostic tester cost a few dollars more. Same information can be had from either. Decisions, decisions.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would start by checking the codes, the TPS may be out of adjustment but i doubt that is the problem or at least the main one, it could be a plugged fuel filter or numerous other sensors.

ouch, i never realized that tester was $622... i gave a customer $50 for it and i thought i was being generous for a simple code reader..