Going to look at this car for sale Sunday. Recently built. Would you classify this as a full Bridge port? I will only be driving this car on weekends and an occasional day to work. I would like to have the Microtec LT-10 tuned for a streetable car..

Thanks,
-Markus

 

Thats a half bridge, still fairly streetable, will give you the brap, if you want to make the most out’ve the porting for power you’ll want free flowing exhaust, and good open intake

 

Someone else mentioned the exhaust port would eat apex seals and the bridge looks really close where the seal passes. I'm sure it will run for some time. But don't want to buy a car (which was ported by the seller) And end up grenade 2000 miles later. Thoughts?

 

i normally port closer to the seal wall and shift the whole bridge out(cutting a relief into the rotor housing), so the end of the seal isn't riding mostly over an open gap.

i hope you also didn't port the center iron the same way or you will have issues, as the seals must be oriented now.

 

This is a car I was going to look at nearby. But I think i'll reserve my dollars for another FC>

 

Can you elaborate a little more? I'm going to start my port soon and want to have as much info as possible

 

not a lull one. i would check the transitions uno the corners. smooth is always the best for flow. but some places you want rough edges to get some turbulences

 

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...beware-619991/

I would do alot of searching and reading before you start, its not rocket science but there are good number of ways you can screw up a port and ruin an iron

Skeese