hotstart issue
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Boston Acoustics SPG555's
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From: Florida
i have an 87 t2 with s5 turbo all emmissions removed freeflowin muff(blown insulation looks like feathers.)
coldstarting is rarely a problem with my t2 , but recently if it stalls it wont start, for days.i understand that if the vehicle stalls it will flood , she is running very rich, but when i go throught all the deflooding procedures im baffled that it still wont start.the engine is not blown or losing compression all oil and water seals are mint . she gets fuel air and spark but if/when she fires she goes up to about 700rpms and dies.
im not sure what to do with it right now in 2 days it will start up and run fine, but i need this hot start prob to go away. again it only has a hot start prob if i stall it.any suggestions would be awesome thks
coldstarting is rarely a problem with my t2 , but recently if it stalls it wont start, for days.i understand that if the vehicle stalls it will flood , she is running very rich, but when i go throught all the deflooding procedures im baffled that it still wont start.the engine is not blown or losing compression all oil and water seals are mint . she gets fuel air and spark but if/when she fires she goes up to about 700rpms and dies.
im not sure what to do with it right now in 2 days it will start up and run fine, but i need this hot start prob to go away. again it only has a hot start prob if i stall it.any suggestions would be awesome thks
have you considered sending your injectors to be cleaned? have you replaced your intake gaskets, and eliminated possible vacuum leaks? most often hot starting issues are related to weak compression. anything in the 95psi or under range is considered weak, but not blown.
Thread Starter
Boston Acoustics SPG555's
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Florida
i have i just dont have the extra dough to send them to witchita, but i have no noticable leaks , on block off plates or vacuum lines. i put a bunch of 87 octane in and was wondering if that is the prob , vr4's wont run with that gas.gonna try some octane booster cus it is the third day since and no start.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Don't bother with octane booster or other snake oil.
87 octane is fine for a stock TII but since your car is modified I'd say to go up a level or two. Either way it won't prevent the car from starting.
Why is the car stalling anyway? It should not stall.
Is it in generally good tune? For example, when was the last time the injectors were serviced?
Who did the emissions removal and did this problem start after it was performed?
You didn't do something silly and remove the BAC/cold start thermowax, did you?
87 octane is fine for a stock TII but since your car is modified I'd say to go up a level or two. Either way it won't prevent the car from starting.
Why is the car stalling anyway? It should not stall.
Is it in generally good tune? For example, when was the last time the injectors were serviced?
Who did the emissions removal and did this problem start after it was performed?
You didn't do something silly and remove the BAC/cold start thermowax, did you?
Thread Starter
Boston Acoustics SPG555's
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 477
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From: Florida
the car randomly stalls on warmups , not sure why
it is not in generally good tune trying to get it in good tune for this year
previous owner did the removal , but car ran fine (except TPS) till i put the 87 octane
he also did remove the bacv and the thermowax
it is not in generally good tune trying to get it in good tune for this year
previous owner did the removal , but car ran fine (except TPS) till i put the 87 octane
he also did remove the bacv and the thermowax
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Sounds like the car is a bit of a basket case.
Factory idle is 750 RPM +- 50 RPM. Put a BAC back on the car and you should be able to set that idle once you fix the vacuum leaks.
Have the injectors professionally serviced (just check the yellow pages for a local shop). Perform a full tuneup and replace the plugs, wires, filters, etc. etc. Also check the CLT and IAT per the FSM instructions. Adjust the TPS. Set the idle to a reasonable level.
Factory idle is 750 RPM +- 50 RPM. Put a BAC back on the car and you should be able to set that idle once you fix the vacuum leaks.
Have the injectors professionally serviced (just check the yellow pages for a local shop). Perform a full tuneup and replace the plugs, wires, filters, etc. etc. Also check the CLT and IAT per the FSM instructions. Adjust the TPS. Set the idle to a reasonable level.
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