hi, im alex and i have a s4 turbo ii fc3s with an e6x. i have had problems with the car for a while now. the big problems started two weeks ago. the fuel pump would not come on. i checked the trigger wire and i was getting positive charge. so i immediately knew that the ecu was no longer grounded. i re grounded the ecu. all was good. went to my next drift event and the car ran great. on my third run, last turn the car died. crap.... the car would turn over, but the fuel pump would not work. tried to fix it at the event, no luck. went home early.
the next day started testing the fuel system. the trigger wire is giving a positive reading again. checked the grounds to the ecu (all the way to the pins) and they were good. hmmmmm...
next i said screw it, im hard wiring the pump. them we will see if it will start. (good idea with walbro 255 and stock fpr) still would not start.
next i checked the power wire to the ecu. the power wire gives off relay weird signals. it will go from 200v to 5v then -120v. it continually jumps around. not %100 sure what that means, but cant be good. next i checked the grey ignition wire to the ecu power relay. when the ignition was on i didn't get any volts to the grey wire (relay was not popping btw). after this i got really pissed off and punched my car. then i went wake boarding.

questions i have:
1) what else should i look for...
2) what can i do to test and see if my ecu is getting the necessary power.
3) what steps would you take?
4) why would all the wiring take a dump in such a short period of time.?

my plan as of now is to take my car to gorillaRE in New Orleans LA and get the car completely rewired so i don't have to deal with the horrible wiring of the previous owner anymore. (only the minimum for the car to run)

before you ask, yes i am getting the engine compression tested before i rewire the whole car. even tho i am %99.9 sure its good

thanks for the help!

 

ya, get it compression tested, everything ECU wise sounds right. were you logging by chance when it died?

 

i don't know if the car was data logging when the problems occurred as i was not the one who set up the ecu. ill have to down load the correct software and check it out.
what do you mean by everything ECU wise sounds right?

thanks for the help

 

what you checked out already

 

so i did the compression test today. i remind you this was on a cold motor b/c i cant get mine to start.
the front rotor got 73psi and rear got 75psi. what do you guys think? motor still good?
rotary resurrection says that anything bellow 85psi and the motor could blow any time, but racing beat says that 75 is the lowest allowed psi.
also i quote RB,"Additionally, in our experience, an engine that falls below 75 PSI "hot" cranking pressure will be difficult to start. Because cold cranking pressure is usually higher than a hot engine, the engine may start when cold, but not restart when hot."
every where else on the web says that cold compression tests should be lower than a hot engine. a little confused their.

thanks,
alex

 

no, warm engine is lower compression readings (everything is hot, and is expanded)

if your that low COLD, rebuild it, even IF you can get it to start, you could do one race and blow blow it, and no parts are reusable and it'll cost you more to rebuild

 

well that was fun.... i guess it wasn't the wiring or ecu after all
now the question is whether i rebuild it or go ls...?

only have two more questions:
1) how much would a rebuild cost to fix that, and do you think an apex broke or is going to break.
2) how much money could i get for the following:
-my broke engine with 1200cc secondaries 680cc primaries
- bnr stage 3 turbo
- turbo ii transmission w/ 6puck clutch and fly wheel
- na fc3s transmission w/ short throw shifter, 6puck racing clutch and flywheel
-rotary works vmount
- haltech e6x and harness
- 91 na diff welded and drive shaft

 

if you had 3 even pulses on both rotors, you don't have a broken apex seal

its impossible to have any idea what a rebuild will cost you, it can range from 700-6000+, either way....still cheaper than trying to stuff a LS in there for all the fabbing you would have to do/parts to buy

may as well at least take the engine apart and SEE what it needs, could just need seals/springs and a gasket kit, which would be cheapest, worst case is the housings are trashed, which if its been being used as a drift/race car, they are probably rough looking, but you never know