AiM

So iv just finished Rebuilding my FD3, after the inlet manifold gasket blew on me. Now having completed the task (after several months) iv come to start it, only to find a Squeeling noise.(a pulley needed a bit of oil) Having solved this prblem i then fired it up for a 2nd time, and it all seemed and sounded nice for about 40 seconds, at which point the car just died (like lack of fuel or loss of spark)
So i checked both of these routes, and all appeared to be ok(after cleaning the plugs from been wet)
I tried again but with no luck.. So i was just wondering if theres anything i may of missed, or might of overlooked when rebuilding it back up. (strange thing is it firing and running twice before stopping) :/

Any help will be Greatly appreaciated

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Start with the basics, do you still have fuel? Do you still have spark?

zack4173

iTrader: (3)

recheck to make sure you plugged all you sensors in correctly mainly the maf.

AiM

yea iv checked the spark, Fuel is a little old so gonna get some fresh, bu ttheres plenty coming through still.

Which sensors would they be exactly ? It almost sounds like theres no compression there, but was running sweet, then just like it lost fuel.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

You probably flooded it then. Very common on most rebuilds before they run for a good amount of time for the seals to bed in and raise compression.

Apply the deflooding techniques and try again.

AiM

it wasnt a rebuild, i only replaced the inlet manifold Gasket, However i did remove all plugs, dried cleaned etc..

But it just died whilst on part throttle, and seems now like theres lack of compression there.. Exactly how do u check compression on ports? same as normal 4 Cylinder engines etc?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

You can use a normal compression tester, but hold the check valve in. You want to look for 3 even bounces on both rotors. If its not three even bounces then you have a bad seal. If its three even bounces, release the check valve and that will give you a decent idea of your compression.

AiM

ok thanks, Ill give that ago tomorrow,

do i do that in the top or lower? (rotory is so new to me)

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Do it in the Leading Plugs

T- Trailing Top
L - Leading Lower

AiM

ok thanks

Im on my way nowto check these, also ill check the sensors pipes etc. what is the MAF sensor ?

AiM

Well iv checked the compression on both the Lead ports, And the front 1 is registering some compression, but the 1 nearest the bulk head registers nothing. Before the replacement of the inlet manifold gasket everything was ok apart from a boost leak.
Is it possible a seal or something could just go in like 30 seconds of it running?
the engine has approx 38k miles on it. So iv come to a stuck end... Is it a seal that could of gone, or is there something in removing of the turbos/manifold/exhaust that i could of possibly missed over looked or not quite done right to cause theis loss of compression? (i did each lead port individually.

AiM

no 1 Got any ideas on this??

Zali0104

Check if fuel temp and coolant temp sensor plugs mixed up

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I'll be blunt: yes it's possible to lose compression in an instant. Detonation can shatter apex seals and ruin compression. At this point you should consider getting the car to a rotary shop.

AiM

can fule temp and coolant temp sensors cause loss of Compression :/

Thanks Dgeesaman, so it would be looking more like the apex seals have gone on it then

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Compression is a mechanical phenomenon. The things that can affect the compression reading are engine temperature (hot vs. cold), seal lubrication, and cranking speed.

AiM

Theres plenty of Cranking Speed, (as there sounds like theres no compression) similar to when a 4cylinder blows its headgasket,
Engine is obviously cold as its only ran for 40 seconds. So im at an end, as the rear rotor reads virtually nothing on the compression tester.

FatMatt

My friend had a similar problem, I will ask him about it

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you're consistently getting zero on the rear rotor it's possible that all of the apex seals on that rotor are blown or stuck.

I would pursue this as an engine rebuild - find the closest rotary performance shop to you, there are a few in the UK. Or if you do your own work it's possible to do some or all of it yourself, it depends how much you're willing and able to get into.

Dave

SRT8

It's possible that you could have blown a seal, but before I strip down the motor, I would remove and replace the MAF sensor. Because if your seals are only stuck, once the vehicle warms up, they should begin to seat into where they need to be.

What year is your FD? And how many miles are on your motor? When you replaced your gasket did you disconnect the battery? Finally do you have an Apexi Power FC installed?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

There is no MAF sensor on the FD...

AiM

Ok finally getting back round to this after a hectic summer. i didnt disconnect the battery to start with, however it did need removing to charge the battery. Iv been confised about this MAF sensor as to what it is exactly, but guess gracer summed it up. Thanks,
It seems sadly that there is no/little compression at all.

Dgeesaman, im fairly compitent with engines, however iv not opened up a rotary before, but like i said above, i did manage to replace the inlet manifold gasket which im told is not the easiest of jobs. So if there isnt to much more complication i wouldnt be afraid to tackle having ago at it myself again. (might just take soem help on what im looking for