engine swaps
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From: Hawaii
engine swaps
Hi everyone!
My name is Natasha I live in Hawaii, I have a 1986 mazda rx7 and I'm wanting to put a 93 twin turbo engine and tranny in my car I wanted to know if it would be a direct bolt up or if anybody knew where I could go or call to find out information regarding this issue?! Please help me I would love to do this to my car but no one here on the island seems to know much about these cars....
Thanks very much hope to hear from you folks soon..
My name is Natasha I live in Hawaii, I have a 1986 mazda rx7 and I'm wanting to put a 93 twin turbo engine and tranny in my car I wanted to know if it would be a direct bolt up or if anybody knew where I could go or call to find out information regarding this issue?! Please help me I would love to do this to my car but no one here on the island seems to know much about these cars....
Thanks very much hope to hear from you folks soon..
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Not a direct bolt in swap... a ton of work is needed.
If you look at the top of this section, there is a sticky thread that says, "FAQ for FC", that thread covers many of the commonly asked questions, just like the one you posted this thread about.
FAQ for FC thread: https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-faq-fc-782402/
If you look at the top of this section, there is a sticky thread that says, "FAQ for FC", that thread covers many of the commonly asked questions, just like the one you posted this thread about.
FAQ for FC thread: https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-faq-fc-782402/
Rotary Freak
Joined: May 2001
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From: Peoria, IL
Believe him when he says it's a lot of work, and a lot of money.
Your best bet is a S4 turbo swap, much more "swap" friendly than a third gen swap. And will cost you MUCH less in the long run.
Your best bet is a S4 turbo swap, much more "swap" friendly than a third gen swap. And will cost you MUCH less in the long run.
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Then add in a new front cover to deal with the MOP.
Custom engine mounts. There is someone building them, but I wouldn't use them ... I'd weld up the front subframe to do it right.
FC turbo flywheel and tranny, because the non turbo ones that you car came with won't work. Don't forget new mounts because a non turbo on won;t work.
Oh yeah, and then you need to replace the Turbos if you are not using the stock ECU. so that means a new Turbo and exhaust manifold too.
Then don't forget the oil pan, because the FD one won't fit either around the stabilizer bar and work with the FC front cover you needed to use so that you can use a mechanical MOP, because the electronic MOP that the FD motor comes with needs a FD ECU that doesn't plug into a FC...
And then don't forget to use the FC turbo tranny, you need a custom drive shaft or need to replace the rear end (which is the right way) and of course the half shafts too.
And then
And then...
And then...
I am sure I have not included half the things, but the big points are...
The 13BREW uses different mounts and locations for mounts, you would need a custom ECU and/or wiring (or both). The engine won't work with your existing tranny and driveline.
If you had read the link I provided you would have found this (courtesy of ReTed)
Originally Posted by ReTed
The most popular method is to adapt the stock 13B-REW engine mounts to the FC3S chassis. Trying to adapt the stock 13B-REW engine mounts to the stock FC3S engine mount locations on the chassis is a difficult proposition, and it's not a recommended design. The stock 13B-REW engine mounts are both located on the rear, side housing; the stock FC3S 13BT engine mounts are located on the center, intermediate housing. This makes for a sharp angle to connect both "points". When researching engine mounts in general, the weight load vector is universally in a vertical plane; the engine (above) loads the mounts (below) straight up and down. Thus, we should try and keep this design structure in mind. The easiest way to accomplish this is to keep the stock 13B-REW engine mounts and weld in a new crossmember toward the rear of the FC3S engine "cradle". There is just enough space to weld in a 3" crossmember, and getting the 13B-REW engine mounts to mount nicely is pretty easy. This allows you to keep almost all the 13B-REW components.
The optional method to welding in a crossmember is to drill and tap the 13B-REW center housing to accept the stock FC3S 13BT passenger engine mount; three M14 x 1.50 holes need to be drilled and tapped into the underside of the center, intermediate housing of the 13B-REW engine to accept the three 17mm bolts that secure the bottom of the engine to the passenger side engine mount. This requires a custom oil pan or the stock FC3S 13BT oil pan. The stock FC3S driver's side engine mount is secured by two nuts on already existing studs on the 13B-REW. The passenger side engine mount is mounted in the middle of the engine, necessitating the oil pan change. If you decide on using the FC3S 13BT oil pan, you need to seal the front edge of the 13BT oil pan, as it's longer than the stock 13B-REW oil pan by about 1/4".
Once you take care of the mounting problem, the rest is pretty easy. An FC3S clutch can be bolted onto the FD3S stock flywheel if on a budget. The stock FC3S transmission should mate with the 13B-REW with very few problems; if the 13B-REW came off an automatic transmission equipped chassis, there is an extra bolt hole in the bell housing, which will not mate up with anything on a stock, 5-speed FC3S transmission. The FC3S starter should fit with little fuss.
If you're going to run a stock FD3S stock ECU, you'll need the engine harness, ignition system harness, ignitor, and all coils from the FD3S, minimally. Going to aftermarket EMS fuel and ignition control gives you more flexibility but may require additional ignition components. Choosing a Haltech EMS for control will allow you to use the stock 13B-REW ignition input (trigger wheel and magnetic pick-ups) and the stock FC3S coils/ignitors!
Due to the 13B-REW already using a front-mounted intercooler, this will pretty much require you to do the same. This would probably be one of the most expensive aftermarket components to get this conversion completed. A popular option is to run the GReddy elbow into the throttle body, as this is a polished aluminum piece versus the stock plastic pipe.
An upgrade fuel pump is almost a necessity, as the 13B-REW uses 2x550 + 2x850 versus the stock 4x550 on a FC3S 13BT. A Walbro 255lph is more than adequate for this application.
The radiator hoses are slightly different for the 13B-REW, so mating up with the stock FC3S 13BT radiator will take a little custom work. "Universal" ribbed, radiator hoses can be used as a cheap alternative. It's highly recommended to get an upgrade radiator if you still have the stock unit. The GReddy pulley kit is another option to slow down the radiator and alternator a bit and comes with it's own special size belt.
Stock twin turbos will easily fit into the FC3S engine bay, but a custom downpipe is required to fit with the rest of the FC3S exhaust system. You can stick with the stock intake system on the twin turbos which will minimally require a pair of cone filters or equivalent.
Oil lines will need to be custom made to fit the 13B-REW oil fittings to the stock FC3S oil cooler up front. The front oil cooler lines is close to the 13BT set-up, but the rear oil cooler line mounts higher up on the engine by the oil filter.
The optional method to welding in a crossmember is to drill and tap the 13B-REW center housing to accept the stock FC3S 13BT passenger engine mount; three M14 x 1.50 holes need to be drilled and tapped into the underside of the center, intermediate housing of the 13B-REW engine to accept the three 17mm bolts that secure the bottom of the engine to the passenger side engine mount. This requires a custom oil pan or the stock FC3S 13BT oil pan. The stock FC3S driver's side engine mount is secured by two nuts on already existing studs on the 13B-REW. The passenger side engine mount is mounted in the middle of the engine, necessitating the oil pan change. If you decide on using the FC3S 13BT oil pan, you need to seal the front edge of the 13BT oil pan, as it's longer than the stock 13B-REW oil pan by about 1/4".
Once you take care of the mounting problem, the rest is pretty easy. An FC3S clutch can be bolted onto the FD3S stock flywheel if on a budget. The stock FC3S transmission should mate with the 13B-REW with very few problems; if the 13B-REW came off an automatic transmission equipped chassis, there is an extra bolt hole in the bell housing, which will not mate up with anything on a stock, 5-speed FC3S transmission. The FC3S starter should fit with little fuss.
If you're going to run a stock FD3S stock ECU, you'll need the engine harness, ignition system harness, ignitor, and all coils from the FD3S, minimally. Going to aftermarket EMS fuel and ignition control gives you more flexibility but may require additional ignition components. Choosing a Haltech EMS for control will allow you to use the stock 13B-REW ignition input (trigger wheel and magnetic pick-ups) and the stock FC3S coils/ignitors!
Due to the 13B-REW already using a front-mounted intercooler, this will pretty much require you to do the same. This would probably be one of the most expensive aftermarket components to get this conversion completed. A popular option is to run the GReddy elbow into the throttle body, as this is a polished aluminum piece versus the stock plastic pipe.
An upgrade fuel pump is almost a necessity, as the 13B-REW uses 2x550 + 2x850 versus the stock 4x550 on a FC3S 13BT. A Walbro 255lph is more than adequate for this application.
The radiator hoses are slightly different for the 13B-REW, so mating up with the stock FC3S 13BT radiator will take a little custom work. "Universal" ribbed, radiator hoses can be used as a cheap alternative. It's highly recommended to get an upgrade radiator if you still have the stock unit. The GReddy pulley kit is another option to slow down the radiator and alternator a bit and comes with it's own special size belt.
Stock twin turbos will easily fit into the FC3S engine bay, but a custom downpipe is required to fit with the rest of the FC3S exhaust system. You can stick with the stock intake system on the twin turbos which will minimally require a pair of cone filters or equivalent.
Oil lines will need to be custom made to fit the 13B-REW oil fittings to the stock FC3S oil cooler up front. The front oil cooler lines is close to the 13BT set-up, but the rear oil cooler line mounts higher up on the engine by the oil filter.
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Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Hawaii
I was planing on taking the whole engine wiring harness everything the guy is putting an LS1 in his car so what hes not keeping is coming to me..But I read the article about engine swapping and it doesn't say anything about putting an 88 turbo or stock engine in an 86 would that work? I'm just looking cause my engine is not going to last for much longer and I dont want my car to sit for very long....
I was planing on taking the whole engine wiring harness everything the guy is putting an LS1 in his car so what hes not keeping is coming to me..But I read the article about engine swapping and it doesn't say anything about putting an 88 turbo or stock engine in an 86 would that work? I'm just looking cause my engine is not going to last for much longer and I dont want my car to sit for very long....
seems relatively easy from the research i've done.
main things needed are a s4 turbo model engine, tranny, driveshaft, and rear end.
might be a good idea to get the ecu or some type of piggy back, or standalone.
but i'm sure someone else will chime in soon and explain better than me.
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
I was planing on taking the whole engine wiring harness everything the guy is putting an LS1 in his car so what hes not keeping is coming to me..But I read the article about engine swapping and it doesn't say anything about putting an 88 turbo or stock engine in an 86 would that work? I'm just looking cause my engine is not going to last for much longer and I dont want my car to sit for very long....
Then if you are cheap, you could use the stock non turbo tranny, flywheel, starter, clutch and rear end with the Turbo motor.
You wouldn't be able to do that with the FD motor in, without expecting them to fail in very short order (even if you did fab up the engine mounts and everything else).
The 87-88 Turbo can also use the non turbo's engine harness with only minor modifications, while the FD engine harness won't work at all unless you re-work most of the plugs and connections... for even the simple things like the alternator.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5
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From: Hawaii
Thanks
Hey everyone thanks for all the info that everyone has given, I did find an engine that i can bolt into my car now i just dont know whatto do the old engine, its still good it just needs to be rebuilt. anyway thanks to all
never know when you might need something.
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