wirelesswally

Hi I have a 1979 rx7 and was replacing the lead and trailind condencerson the distrubuter. I put the 0 degrees at top dead center and marked the roter and distributer so that when reinserted I could line the marks up. I could replace the condersers. Upper condensers I could change with the distributer but had to pull the distributer to reach the ones under the the trailing adjustment. I installed upper and lower with a lead and lag condenser at each location. I put the distributer back in and the rx7 started. I checked the timing for the lead ( lower pluga front and the timing was nearly right on. When I ckecked the trailing marks ( upper front) I could not get the mark to move far enough to set the trainling mark ( using the adjustment vacume position ). I could get it close but ran out of adjustment proceedure. I moved the adjuster in as far as it would alloe and it would move the timing marks close but not enough. On the lead (lower I nsatlled a lead and trail condeser and the same for the lower. Could the condensers be the problem? the trailing were smal and the lead were larger. Gan you gevi me some suggestions for what may be the cause on this? thanks Wally

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

wow it's been an extremely long time since i delt with condensers, but i don't think they have any effect on timing. the dist has it's own alignment marks on it. just swap all that bull sheet out for an electronic dist.

GREG5656

HI Wally,
I also have a 1979 RX7, 12A, with points. I found in my distributor that the BASE PLATE that the points attach to, was loose. It would rise up & down; I could move the BASE PLATE with my fingers. As it would move upwards about a 1/4 inch, this upward movement would cause my T points to open prematurly, because as the plate went upward, the T point RUB BLOCK that touches the CAM would open prematurly. .... I made a metal shim to HOLD DOWN the Base Plate from moving upward, but remember this Base Plate must slide with the vacuum advances.......

Remove the 2 screws that hold the plate down, remove & flip it over and lubricate the bearings, I used wheel bearing grease, and oil on the weights. For me this worked 100% for about 20 miles, then it started to run rough again, so I purchased a rebuild distributor.
I checked my condensors and all four are 0.27uF, I to had a larger one in the physical metal case size, but reguardless of case size , check Chiltons and verify you have the same as the book calls for, 0.27uF for all four condensors.
NOW I NEED YOUR HELP!!! I to after putting in the new distributor, can not get the Trailing TDC mard to come close enough to the pointer, My LEADING mark I CAN get perfect. I tried numerous attemps of removing and re-inserting the new distributor, while moving the gear tooth one knoth forward or two knothes backward, and to no avail does this help in getting the Trailing Mark closer by slideing the T advance in or outwardward.Yes, I match marked the raised tally mark on the dist shaft, to the dimple on the GEAR shaft. If you want to share more info, call me & leave message as to a good time to return your call. Greg 586-997-6242

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the plate for trailing timing can be adjusted separate of leading. the FSM will show this. chilton manual should too. as for the plate moving up and down, there's screws that hold it down.