coolant overflow boiling
04-17-12, 06:39 PM
#1
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coolant overflow boiling
my coolant over flow on my 88 13b non turbo has been boiling and the car has been overheating, iv replaced the whole cooling system, radiator , water pump, thermostat, and head gasket, the car finally stopped overheating but the reservoir is still boiling and overflowing does anyone know what could be causing this?
04-18-12, 07:50 AM
#2
my coolant over flow on my 88 13b non turbo has been boiling and the car has been overheating, iv replaced the whole cooling system, radiator , water pump, thermostat, and head gasket, the car finally stopped overheating but the reservoir is still boiling and overflowing does anyone know what could be causing this?
04-18-12, 12:28 PM
#3
my coolant over flow on my 88 13b non turbo has been boiling and the car has been overheating, iv replaced the whole cooling system, radiator , water pump, thermostat, and head gasket, the car finally stopped overheating but the reservoir is still boiling and overflowing does anyone know what could be causing this?
Anyway, the radiator cap thing seems to be a valid point to check, in my point of view...
Other things you can check:
-if the cooling system has air in it, then it needs to be bled.
-Coolant seals on the engine may be failing. If that's the case, then...
Last edited by Eduardo Santos; 04-18-12 at 12:31 PM.
04-18-12, 05:08 PM
#5
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Start the engine on a cool morning.. It shouldn't "boil" out (for any reason) for a few minutes. If it does you're looking at a rebuild and maybe some new internals.
04-19-12, 10:06 AM
#6
I'm sorry, but... Head gasket on a rotary engine? I'm no expert in rotary engines, but I don't think that's possible, simply because rotary engines don't have such a thing as a head, let alone a head gasket...
Anyway, the radiator cap thing seems to be a valid point to check, in my point of view...
Other things you can check:
-if the cooling system has air in it, then it needs to be bled.
-Coolant seals on the engine may be failing. If that's the case, then...
Anyway, the radiator cap thing seems to be a valid point to check, in my point of view...
Other things you can check:
-if the cooling system has air in it, then it needs to be bled.
-Coolant seals on the engine may be failing. If that's the case, then...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ORJP...eature=related
Edited: added a video
Last edited by Einheri; 04-19-12 at 10:21 AM.
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04-20-12, 06:33 AM
#11
04-24-12, 04:53 PM
#15
I think that the part that's in trouble is the radiator cap.
I mean this part (not the filler cap):
Take it out and test it according to the FSM procedures. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, then I don't know what else could be.
Good luck.
I mean this part (not the filler cap):
Take it out and test it according to the FSM procedures. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, then I don't know what else could be.
Good luck.
04-24-12, 07:34 PM
#16
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Try pressure testing the coolant system and the cap. The system should be pressurized to raise the temperature at which the coolant will boil. If its not pressurizing (or there is air in the system) the coolant will boil at a lower temperature than what the system is designed to need.
You can rent a pressure tester from most auto stores for pretty cheap. Good luck.
You can rent a pressure tester from most auto stores for pretty cheap. Good luck.
04-25-12, 10:47 AM
#18
I still had a valid point about the coolant cap, regardless. If there is air getting in your coolant, it will boil or bubble and over flow. Burp out the air
Last edited by Einheri; 04-25-12 at 10:50 AM.
04-25-12, 11:56 AM
#19
you're right, i haven't. because they likely have changed in the past 9 years at some point.
your point was valid, i never said it wasn't.
but i still bet you a nickel the coolant seals are bad.
are we done trolling yet? a simple joke about a headgasket amidst some actual information isn't against the rules, i hope, otherwise i am wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy yyyyyyyyyyyyyy past due for a ban. now go dry your vagina, my joke was actually aimed at the OP not your post.
your point was valid, i never said it wasn't.
but i still bet you a nickel the coolant seals are bad.
are we done trolling yet? a simple joke about a headgasket amidst some actual information isn't against the rules, i hope, otherwise i am wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy yyyyyyyyyyyyyy past due for a ban. now go dry your vagina, my joke was actually aimed at the OP not your post.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 04-25-12 at 12:00 PM.
04-25-12, 05:07 PM
#20
I'm with Karack, compression pressure or exhaust gasses are being forced into the cooling system from a failed coolant seal. If the boiling/straw-in-a-glass sound is actually inside the overflow, then a bad seal is likely responsible. Especially since it's an NA.
This was intended for an FD owner but I think symtoms would pretty much be the same. Might help the OP in identifying it for certain.......
A coolant seal failure is a common problem....at least in the FDs of which I'm familiar. IMO it's the price for forced induction. Boost is power. More power= more heat= more stress. NA rotarys have the problem, but AFAIK, not nearly as soon as the FDs.
Still, before doing anything, make sure you have a failed seal. Besides the 'Champagne test" these are all the symtoms I can think of... but no single symtom by itself is confirmation. Many symtoms could be from other causes. However the more symtoms/conditions you have in combination, the more likely it is a coolant seal failure.........
*Stumbling idle on cold start-up that clears up quickly. The combustion chamber is fouled with coolant. As soon as it's purged or burned up, your car will run fine until the next cold start.
*Slightly sweet exhaust smell, especially on start-up. See above. Coolant is being burned and it has a distinctive smell.
*"White smoke" (steam) on cold start-up even in warm/hot weather. See above.
*A coolant over-flow tank that is over-flowing. This will usually result in a puddle under the car near the right front...the area of the over-flow tank. When coolant gets hot it expands and that's what the overflow tank is for. But with a failed seal the nature vacuum that forms and pulls that coolant back out as the engine cools down is lost. That leaves that coolant stranded in the tank and eventually it overflows.
*Coolant loss that isn't explained by a puddle on your garage floor. It's being consumed by the engine and going out the exhaust.
*Spiking temps that seemingly recover on their own almost as quickly. Air pockets in the cooling system allow steam to form. That will cause temp spiking. This is different than a rising temp just after a period of hard boost. It can happen as your steadily cruising down the highway.
*Boiling sounds after shut down even shortly after properly "burping" the system. See above.
*Failed coolant system pressure test.
*Failed test of coolant for hydrocarbons.
*Unusually clean plugs, or wet plugs if you pull them right away after starting the car. (Sometimes you can even smell the coolant)
*One or more episodes of serious overheating in the car's history regardless of miles. (from what I've read, 115 C./240 F. seems to be the critical number for OEM seals to begin to degrade)
*An otherwise well maintained and cared-for FD approaching 100K miles or so.
As for a bandaid, some have used one of the many "Stop-Leak" coolant additives to give them a bit more time but use at your own risk. While it's not anything that will leave you on the side of the road, a failed coolant seal can easily lead to errosion/rust/pitting of the coolant seal grooves in the irons. That can cause a junk iron and make the inevitiable rebuild more expensive.
Still, before doing anything, make sure you have a failed seal. Besides the 'Champagne test" these are all the symtoms I can think of... but no single symtom by itself is confirmation. Many symtoms could be from other causes. However the more symtoms/conditions you have in combination, the more likely it is a coolant seal failure.........
*Stumbling idle on cold start-up that clears up quickly. The combustion chamber is fouled with coolant. As soon as it's purged or burned up, your car will run fine until the next cold start.
*Slightly sweet exhaust smell, especially on start-up. See above. Coolant is being burned and it has a distinctive smell.
*"White smoke" (steam) on cold start-up even in warm/hot weather. See above.
*A coolant over-flow tank that is over-flowing. This will usually result in a puddle under the car near the right front...the area of the over-flow tank. When coolant gets hot it expands and that's what the overflow tank is for. But with a failed seal the nature vacuum that forms and pulls that coolant back out as the engine cools down is lost. That leaves that coolant stranded in the tank and eventually it overflows.
*Coolant loss that isn't explained by a puddle on your garage floor. It's being consumed by the engine and going out the exhaust.
*Spiking temps that seemingly recover on their own almost as quickly. Air pockets in the cooling system allow steam to form. That will cause temp spiking. This is different than a rising temp just after a period of hard boost. It can happen as your steadily cruising down the highway.
*Boiling sounds after shut down even shortly after properly "burping" the system. See above.
*Failed coolant system pressure test.
*Failed test of coolant for hydrocarbons.
*Unusually clean plugs, or wet plugs if you pull them right away after starting the car. (Sometimes you can even smell the coolant)
*One or more episodes of serious overheating in the car's history regardless of miles. (from what I've read, 115 C./240 F. seems to be the critical number for OEM seals to begin to degrade)
*An otherwise well maintained and cared-for FD approaching 100K miles or so.
As for a bandaid, some have used one of the many "Stop-Leak" coolant additives to give them a bit more time but use at your own risk. While it's not anything that will leave you on the side of the road, a failed coolant seal can easily lead to errosion/rust/pitting of the coolant seal grooves in the irons. That can cause a junk iron and make the inevitiable rebuild more expensive.
04-29-12, 09:13 AM
#21
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thank you for the tips and i know its not technically a head gasket its a water seal but it is the equivelent of a head gasket
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LongDuck
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10-07-15 08:12 PM
13b, antifreeze, boiling, car, collant, coolant, cooling, overflow, overflowing, pressurized, radiator, reservoir, rx7, system, turbo
