Check engine light...code 27...OMP
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Check engine light...code 27...OMP
my check engine light is on...i jumped it to read the code and it repeats 27 which is the omp..what should i do???...i've heard that blockin it off will hv me changin oil like every 1000miles(dnt kno if thats true)...should i just change it out?
as soon as the check engine light comes on i shut the car off and turn it back on so it doesnt go into limp mode when im driving.
as soon as the check engine light comes on i shut the car off and turn it back on so it doesnt go into limp mode when im driving.
#2
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No, you can't just block it off. No signal or an incorrect signal from the MOP leads to limp mode.
You either replace the pump, or have the ECU chipped to disable it (http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S5NA). If disabled, you MUST pre-mix 2-stroke oil into the gas tank. This change your oil every 1000 miles thing you heard is flat out wrong.
You either replace the pump, or have the ECU chipped to disable it (http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S5NA). If disabled, you MUST pre-mix 2-stroke oil into the gas tank. This change your oil every 1000 miles thing you heard is flat out wrong.
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No, you can't just block it off. No signal or an incorrect signal from the MOP leads to limp mode.
You either replace the pump, or have the ECU chipped to disable it (http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S5NA). If disabled, you MUST pre-mix 2-stroke oil into the gas tank. This change your oil every 1000 miles thing you heard is flat out wrong.
You either replace the pump, or have the ECU chipped to disable it (http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S5NA). If disabled, you MUST pre-mix 2-stroke oil into the gas tank. This change your oil every 1000 miles thing you heard is flat out wrong.
#7
^Not necessarily.
Removing the OMP and just running pre-mix has advantages, but it also requires you to jack with carrying 2-cycle in your car. And you absolutely must add the appropriate amount with every gas stop. Forgetting or running out of 2 cycle isn't an option.
Replacing the OMP, running both the OMP and pre-mix (preferrably with AI), or running an adaptor for the OMP to source 2-cycle are other options. It really depends on the person and car.
Removing the OMP and just running pre-mix has advantages, but it also requires you to jack with carrying 2-cycle in your car. And you absolutely must add the appropriate amount with every gas stop. Forgetting or running out of 2 cycle isn't an option.
Replacing the OMP, running both the OMP and pre-mix (preferrably with AI), or running an adaptor for the OMP to source 2-cycle are other options. It really depends on the person and car.
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i've read that the mop goin bad can mess up the ecu?....is this true?...
everythin said in this post hv been great ways to go about this problem...i was thinking of changing the mop out and gettin a adapter and a reserve tank for the pre mix...but that would mean earlier oil changes rite?...lol...im just lost...i still cant find a place to get another mop...
everythin said in this post hv been great ways to go about this problem...i was thinking of changing the mop out and gettin a adapter and a reserve tank for the pre mix...but that would mean earlier oil changes rite?...lol...im just lost...i still cant find a place to get another mop...
#9
No, oil change intervals would be unaffected. If anything you could probably lengthen them a little if your OMP is sourcing pre-mix from a tank rather than engine oil.
And a bad OMP shouldn't hurt the ECU at all. If anything, it's the other way around.
Not sure what the rules are for new members. If you haven't already, look for a replacement from a trusted seller with good feedback here on the forum in the "PARTS FOR SALE" section.
And a bad OMP shouldn't hurt the ECU at all. If anything, it's the other way around.
Not sure what the rules are for new members. If you haven't already, look for a replacement from a trusted seller with good feedback here on the forum in the "PARTS FOR SALE" section.
#11
Then I'm sorry for the mis-info. I forgot we were talking about S5. I actually suspect the ECU of frying two OMPs (sensors) on my S6...but that's another story.
In any event, I don't like yanking parts off a car JUST because they break or wear-out. Make sure your improving things and/or replace it properly. Otherwise it seems like laziness.
In any event, I don't like yanking parts off a car JUST because they break or wear-out. Make sure your improving things and/or replace it properly. Otherwise it seems like laziness.
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i get u...so this does mean that i will need to get another mop and ecu...and then get a adpater for the mop and hook it a tank for the premix...does anyone have this kind of set-up?
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Problem solved. At least that is what worked for me.
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If the electric MOP is disabled, you either premix or use an adapter like this one: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm.
doing a set up like this i wont hv to replace the mop rite?...
more details on how the adapter works will be helpfull...thanks for all the help guys
#20
I have a friend who runs one of these on a frequently tracked FD and he's had no issues that I'm aware of. The biggest issue, at least on a FD, is packaging....finding a place for the tank etc. The only other issue is making damn sure you keep oil in the tank and don't let it run dry.
Can you just replace the MOP? Absolutely. In fact, that's what I personally would recommend in your situation. The car is new to you, just get a good use MOP/OMP from a trusted seller in the parts for sale section and R & R it.
#24
Have you checked the FSM for any specific instructions?
Stainless lines are available for the S6 (and I assume for the S5) which are essentially indestructible. If you search I believe there's also a thread on making your own replacements for next to free. If you're ever in to the motor deep enough to remove alot of the long-block and the lines are accessible, then I'd recommend replacing the stock lines with either version.
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