Advice on buying an FC not running.
01-10-12, 07:45 PM
#1
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Advice on buying an FC not running.
First off Im brand new to here and rotary engines. Ive been doing research on their operation from online and reading books and watching videos. So that being said, everyday for months Ive seen a white FC, so one day I decided to go see if it was for sale. The owner says it is and he'll take $600. Its an '86 S4 FC3S. He says one day he couldn't get it to start, so he took it to a local rotary shop. The mechanic says it needed to be rebuilt.
My question is after buying the car should I try some simpler fixes first like trying to un-flood it and testing the compression before just ripping it out to rebuild.
My question is after buying the car should I try some simpler fixes first like trying to un-flood it and testing the compression before just ripping it out to rebuild.
01-11-12, 04:21 AM
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Yes, definitely test the compression.
Here's a great FREE rebuild video: Aaron Cake's: 13B Rebuild Video
Here's a great FREE rebuild video: Aaron Cake's: 13B Rebuild Video
01-11-12, 10:06 PM
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In some rare occasions a locked-up air conditioner compressor or power steering pump can keep the engine from cranking, mimicking a blown engine. A friend of mine bought one in this condition, and yes, a "mechanic" told the previous owner that the engine was blown and needed a new timing chain, lol.
A few months ago my 88 convertible wouldn't start, and all it needed was a new fuel pump.
Anyway, yes, check out the car before ripping the engine apart.
Also, $600 is a little high for an 86 with a blown engine unless the car is otherwise in excellent condition. Given the typical condition of an 86 (faded paint, some minor rust, faded and beat-up interior, worn-out shocks and springs, etc.) I would expect a car like that to sell more in the $150-250 range, and down to $50 if it is bad shape (broken bumpers, dented body panels, rust perforation, bad brake disks, etc.). The lower price is because it is very difficult to tell what is wrong with the car if you can't test drive it, and more risk to the buyer results in less money paid to the seller. Keep in mind that an engine rebuild is usually about $800-1,200 in parts alone, and that is assuming that none of the major components need to be replaced. For reference, I paid $1,000 for my 88 convertible with a running engine and a state certified safety inspection, and it was sitting for sale on this forum for several months before I bought it.
A few months ago my 88 convertible wouldn't start, and all it needed was a new fuel pump.
Anyway, yes, check out the car before ripping the engine apart.
Also, $600 is a little high for an 86 with a blown engine unless the car is otherwise in excellent condition. Given the typical condition of an 86 (faded paint, some minor rust, faded and beat-up interior, worn-out shocks and springs, etc.) I would expect a car like that to sell more in the $150-250 range, and down to $50 if it is bad shape (broken bumpers, dented body panels, rust perforation, bad brake disks, etc.). The lower price is because it is very difficult to tell what is wrong with the car if you can't test drive it, and more risk to the buyer results in less money paid to the seller. Keep in mind that an engine rebuild is usually about $800-1,200 in parts alone, and that is assuming that none of the major components need to be replaced. For reference, I paid $1,000 for my 88 convertible with a running engine and a state certified safety inspection, and it was sitting for sale on this forum for several months before I bought it.
01-12-12, 01:04 AM
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In some rare occasions a locked-up air conditioner compressor or power steering pump can keep the engine from cranking, mimicking a blown engine. A friend of mine bought one in this condition, and yes, a "mechanic" told the previous owner that the engine was blown and needed a new timing chain, lol.
A few months ago my 88 convertible wouldn't start, and all it needed was a new fuel pump.
Anyway, yes, check out the car before ripping the engine apart.
Also, $600 is a little high for an 86 with a blown engine unless the car is otherwise in excellent condition. Given the typical condition of an 86 (faded paint, some minor rust, faded and beat-up interior, worn-out shocks and springs, etc.) I would expect a car like that to sell more in the $150-250 range, and down to $50 if it is bad shape (broken bumpers, dented body panels, rust perforation, bad brake disks, etc.). The lower price is because it is very difficult to tell what is wrong with the car if you can't test drive it, and more risk to the buyer results in less money paid to the seller. Keep in mind that an engine rebuild is usually about $800-1,200 in parts alone, and that is assuming that none of the major components need to be replaced. For reference, I paid $1,000 for my 88 convertible with a running engine and a state certified safety inspection, and it was sitting for sale on this forum for several months before I bought it.
A few months ago my 88 convertible wouldn't start, and all it needed was a new fuel pump.
Anyway, yes, check out the car before ripping the engine apart.
Also, $600 is a little high for an 86 with a blown engine unless the car is otherwise in excellent condition. Given the typical condition of an 86 (faded paint, some minor rust, faded and beat-up interior, worn-out shocks and springs, etc.) I would expect a car like that to sell more in the $150-250 range, and down to $50 if it is bad shape (broken bumpers, dented body panels, rust perforation, bad brake disks, etc.). The lower price is because it is very difficult to tell what is wrong with the car if you can't test drive it, and more risk to the buyer results in less money paid to the seller. Keep in mind that an engine rebuild is usually about $800-1,200 in parts alone, and that is assuming that none of the major components need to be replaced. For reference, I paid $1,000 for my 88 convertible with a running engine and a state certified safety inspection, and it was sitting for sale on this forum for several months before I bought it.
When you say "wont crank" do you actually mean it wont crank/turn or just wont start? Also thanks for the info on the price. The body, interior, engine are in very good condition. I did think about asking for less. We'll see if he takes.
01-12-12, 07:24 AM
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Just remember an engine needs three things to run; compression, spark and fuel! Checking these three things is a good place to start. If you cant get a compression test, turning the engine over with the plugs out allows you to listen for 6 'whooshes' from each rotor. Any variation in the consistency of the sound could be a damaged apex seal or corner seal.
Tow-starting it is also a good way of finding out how it actually runs (providing it has spark and fuel!)
Tow-starting it is also a good way of finding out how it actually runs (providing it has spark and fuel!)
01-12-12, 07:55 AM
#6
When he says "won't crank", he means the engine will not turn over and appear as if it were locked up, when instead a belt driven accessory is the culprit.
It all depends on what kind of project you want to get into. While it certainly could be something simple, the odds are probably not in your favor. Even if the rest of the car was in mint condition, I'd still try to talk down the price just because the price of a rebuild is fairly high.
It all depends on what kind of project you want to get into. While it certainly could be something simple, the odds are probably not in your favor. Even if the rest of the car was in mint condition, I'd still try to talk down the price just because the price of a rebuild is fairly high.
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