99 FD3S boost issue
02-04-21, 12:12 PM
#1
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99 FD3S boost issue
Hey guys,
my FD doesn't build up proper boost.
When my mechanic blinked out the code, it shows "solenoid control valve".
Browsing amayama it shows different "valves" - which one is the proper one to get? N3A118741 ?
Thanks!
my FD doesn't build up proper boost.
When my mechanic blinked out the code, it shows "solenoid control valve".
Browsing amayama it shows different "valves" - which one is the proper one to get? N3A118741 ?
Thanks!
02-04-21, 01:24 PM
#2
There are a least 9 locations with solenoids valves. Some of those valves could be the same part number.
Does the reader give more specific location?
Be careful hunting around in your rats nest. Many of the solenoid valves nibbles could break off if you pull the vacuum lines too hard.
Maybe use proper hose remover pick and and pull tools.
Liquid wrench would help soften things up.
Perhaps get your shop to do a simple smoke test. This will reveal any other leaks in your vacuum and air induction systems.
Does the reader give more specific location?
Be careful hunting around in your rats nest. Many of the solenoid valves nibbles could break off if you pull the vacuum lines too hard.
Maybe use proper hose remover pick and and pull tools.
Liquid wrench would help soften things up.
Perhaps get your shop to do a simple smoke test. This will reveal any other leaks in your vacuum and air induction systems.
Last edited by Redbul; 02-04-21 at 01:25 PM. Reason: spelling correction
02-05-21, 01:18 AM
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Thank you for the fast reply, forwarded it already!
Unfortunately not, he told me the blinking displayed "boost pressure" and "solenoid control valve", but I will ask again to verify.
Unfortunately not, he told me the blinking displayed "boost pressure" and "solenoid control valve", but I will ask again to verify.
02-05-21, 12:42 PM
#5
The MAP sensor feeds the boost pressure to the ecu. MAP sensor may be malfunctioning. Check that the MAP sensor filter is facing the correct direction.
If you have a friend with spare solenoids you could try switching out the boost related solenoids and see if the codes go away. Same with the MAP sensor.
The double solenoid (green colour) on front of the UIM might be a good place to start. But many times the nipples will break.
A replacement is about $200.
Basic solenoids are about $100 each new.
You can use used, but how long will they last?
Also if your harness is old and crackly, you could have a lack of electric feed to the solenoids causing the problem.
If your entire rat's nest is ancient, budget about $3000 to replace solenoids, vacuum lines and engine harness.
If you have a friend with spare solenoids you could try switching out the boost related solenoids and see if the codes go away. Same with the MAP sensor.
The double solenoid (green colour) on front of the UIM might be a good place to start. But many times the nipples will break.
A replacement is about $200.
Basic solenoids are about $100 each new.
You can use used, but how long will they last?
Also if your harness is old and crackly, you could have a lack of electric feed to the solenoids causing the problem.
If your entire rat's nest is ancient, budget about $3000 to replace solenoids, vacuum lines and engine harness.
Last edited by Redbul; 02-05-21 at 12:46 PM. Reason: added info.
11-15-21, 02:13 PM
#6
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The MAP sensor feeds the boost pressure to the ecu. MAP sensor may be malfunctioning. Check that the MAP sensor filter is facing the correct direction.
If you have a friend with spare solenoids you could try switching out the boost related solenoids and see if the codes go away. Same with the MAP sensor.
The double solenoid (green colour) on front of the UIM might be a good place to start. But many times the nipples will break.
A replacement is about $200.
Basic solenoids are about $100 each new.
You can use used, but how long will they last?
Also if your harness is old and crackly, you could have a lack of electric feed to the solenoids causing the problem.
If your entire rat's nest is ancient, budget about $3000 to replace solenoids, vacuum lines and engine harness.
If you have a friend with spare solenoids you could try switching out the boost related solenoids and see if the codes go away. Same with the MAP sensor.
The double solenoid (green colour) on front of the UIM might be a good place to start. But many times the nipples will break.
A replacement is about $200.
Basic solenoids are about $100 each new.
You can use used, but how long will they last?
Also if your harness is old and crackly, you could have a lack of electric feed to the solenoids causing the problem.
If your entire rat's nest is ancient, budget about $3000 to replace solenoids, vacuum lines and engine harness.
After replacing them the car technically runs on full boost on both turbos and through the whole rev-range.
Why technically? Because it's not reliable. Sometimes it pulls through nice and smoothly, sometimes it feels like the car "chokes" and doesn't build up proper boost.
It has two open Apexi air filters attached - might these & taking in hot air be a problem? I've read Mazda said "no pod filters"...
Or would you suggest MAP filters or something else?
Turbos can be ruled out I guessed and the solenoids are all working as well now.
11-15-21, 03:58 PM
#7
If your car is JDM, without a check engine light, the ECU could be switching periodiclly to limp mode. This is were the ECU senses something wrong. You will have trouble going over 4000 rpm and the car could start bucking if y9ou try to drive.
Mazda solution for this " go to service department".
It seems you have someone to run codes.
There are about 75 codes that could be thrown.
Many of these will cause the ecu to revert to limp mode.
So check the codes again.
1. Check fuel pressure and fuel pump.
2. Watch for buckling air intake pipes (if someone has replaced with a weak walled pipe).
3.Do a smoke test to identify any air leaks in the system.
4. Replace the O2 Sensor, it may be off range
5. Check the range of the TPS (throttle position sensor)
6. Is your cat plugged?
7. Check if you are getting code for the OMP (oil metering pump). Ecu does not like it. My OMP would go on and off, so might not always throw a code.
8. Have you installed an AFR gauge (wide band)? Very helpful.
9. Double check all your grounding points for good connections
10. Is the alternator starting to fail?
11. Check the circuit boards in the ecu. Are they pristine? (Don't bend any of the pins for the connectors.)
12. Sometimes "new" solenoids are defective.
Mazda solution for this " go to service department".
It seems you have someone to run codes.
There are about 75 codes that could be thrown.
Many of these will cause the ecu to revert to limp mode.
So check the codes again.
1. Check fuel pressure and fuel pump.
2. Watch for buckling air intake pipes (if someone has replaced with a weak walled pipe).
3.Do a smoke test to identify any air leaks in the system.
4. Replace the O2 Sensor, it may be off range
5. Check the range of the TPS (throttle position sensor)
6. Is your cat plugged?
7. Check if you are getting code for the OMP (oil metering pump). Ecu does not like it. My OMP would go on and off, so might not always throw a code.
8. Have you installed an AFR gauge (wide band)? Very helpful.
9. Double check all your grounding points for good connections
10. Is the alternator starting to fail?
11. Check the circuit boards in the ecu. Are they pristine? (Don't bend any of the pins for the connectors.)
12. Sometimes "new" solenoids are defective.
Last edited by Redbul; 11-15-21 at 04:02 PM.
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11-15-21, 05:07 PM
#8
We ended up checking all magnetic solenoid valves - 2 weren't working (B6AT18741 - THREE-WAY VALVE and FEGC18741 - SOLENOID VALVE;THREE-WAY VALVE).
After replacing them the car technically runs on full boost on both turbos and through the whole rev-range.
Why technically? Because it's not reliable. Sometimes it pulls through nice and smoothly, sometimes it feels like the car "chokes" and doesn't build up proper boost.
It has two open Apexi air filters attached - might these & taking in hot air be a problem? I've read Mazda said "no pod filters"...
Or would you suggest MAP filters or something else?
Turbos can be ruled out I guessed and the solenoids are all working as well now.
After replacing them the car technically runs on full boost on both turbos and through the whole rev-range.
Why technically? Because it's not reliable. Sometimes it pulls through nice and smoothly, sometimes it feels like the car "chokes" and doesn't build up proper boost.
It has two open Apexi air filters attached - might these & taking in hot air be a problem? I've read Mazda said "no pod filters"...
Or would you suggest MAP filters or something else?
Turbos can be ruled out I guessed and the solenoids are all working as well now.
Pod filters would not cause such issues. Also, you have referred to the Series 6 Vacuum Diagram for North America. Series 7 and 8 are completely different and MUCH tidier for less confusion when addressing vacuum matters. I posted the Japanese diagrams in the 3rd gen sticky thread
11-15-21, 06:01 PM
#10
When my mechanic blinked out the code, it shows "solenoid control valve".
Either way, the proper vacuum diagram is here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post12480857
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11-17-21, 07:47 AM
#13
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Read out the codes.
It only showed an issue with the speed sensor (I cut the speed limit).
After re-plugging it for a test and erasing the ECU memory, no more error codes are flashed when blinking it out :/
@redbul: Alternator seems fine, only the starter seems to be problematic. Sometimes the car idles a bit until it starts. I did a compression test though and it's fine, also new spark plugs & cables.
It only showed an issue with the speed sensor (I cut the speed limit).
After re-plugging it for a test and erasing the ECU memory, no more error codes are flashed when blinking it out :/
@redbul: Alternator seems fine, only the starter seems to be problematic. Sometimes the car idles a bit until it starts. I did a compression test though and it's fine, also new spark plugs & cables.
Last edited by FD3SC; 11-17-21 at 07:51 AM.
11-17-21, 11:04 AM
#14
Resetting the ECU may work for a while. Sometimes the ecu will go back into limp mode, when it runs through its internal diagnostic check cycle.
When I sensed my car was in limp mode, I would pull over, turn it off, and restart.
it would be fine for a while , then go into limp mode again.
One thing was the OMP. Sometimes it would cause a code, and other times not.
Finally a big problem turned out the leads to the spark plugs.
In 1999 they changed the hook up pattern.
But if you used the USDM FSM you would hook up the leads wrong.
I don't know how long this was an issue for my car, but it showed up as severe knocking at 6000 rpm. ( I rarely go over 4000 rpm, haha).
Eventually I blew a corner seal.
Also, I had a kink in an o-ring around my fuel pump. This was causing fuel starvation at higher fuel line pressures.
Replacing the fuel pump was one of the first things I had done to my car, so the whole battle with my running issues may have been influenced by a kinked $0.05 o-ring.
A third issue was that at some point my oil pan had been bashed up against the oil strainer uptake.
All three of these issues were finally discovered during the $10,000 engine rebuild.
(At which point I went back to a parrallel set up with a Power FC, custom harness, emmissions delete, p-port.)
When I sensed my car was in limp mode, I would pull over, turn it off, and restart.
it would be fine for a while , then go into limp mode again.
One thing was the OMP. Sometimes it would cause a code, and other times not.
Finally a big problem turned out the leads to the spark plugs.
In 1999 they changed the hook up pattern.
But if you used the USDM FSM you would hook up the leads wrong.
I don't know how long this was an issue for my car, but it showed up as severe knocking at 6000 rpm. ( I rarely go over 4000 rpm, haha).
Eventually I blew a corner seal.
Also, I had a kink in an o-ring around my fuel pump. This was causing fuel starvation at higher fuel line pressures.
Replacing the fuel pump was one of the first things I had done to my car, so the whole battle with my running issues may have been influenced by a kinked $0.05 o-ring.
A third issue was that at some point my oil pan had been bashed up against the oil strainer uptake.
All three of these issues were finally discovered during the $10,000 engine rebuild.
(At which point I went back to a parrallel set up with a Power FC, custom harness, emmissions delete, p-port.)
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