Redline420

those two actuators located on the passenger side, very low on the engine.
is that what those two are? my diagrams fail at describing the hose hookups.

I was wondering if anyone could let me know where i hook them up to please?

i dont think thats the reason i cant get her to run but it could help, i know some of these hoses are *** backwards, and i dont hae any check valves installed, but i think its more of a timing problem, **** i dont know im very frustrated with this engine, the last person that worked on it hooked everything up wrong.

ive replaced the plugs and cleaned 2 injectors, the injectors i cleaned were at the upper part of the engine, those are secondary right? one was plugged intirely.

also im using what i believe is an s5 fuel pump, i had to rewire it cause it wouldnt plug in, the plug from the s5 fuel pump resembled the plug used on s5 fuel injectors.

i hope i didnt confuse anyone too much, thanks for atleast reading my post.

Redline420

Why is this effing engine so god Damn moody its worse than a bipolar woman on rag.
Pos fires, runs for 2 seconds and dies fml.
I know its a good engine I've seen some impressive rotaries, mine however almost got axed in half.

Yes I've searched, I've got the bloody search button bookmarked can anyone verify which edging injectors are the primaries please.

Sorry in advance for language, but god Damn I'm gonna be bald from tearing my hair out before I get what is supposed to be my daily driver, feel like a welfare bum having to carpool to work.

whoknows

primaries are on bottom, secondaries on top. Look up the link for the service manual in the 2nd gen FAQ. Go to the fuel and emissions section. Check out the diagrams. Itll show you the secondary fuel rail being on top and primary below. It is for the s5. Your s4 Im not sure if would be the same, but the diagrams are easy to find.

http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

Redline420

Hey thanks bud sorry you had to point it out I'm a tool.

So since my custom exhaust has no hookup I must live without them or hook up an elaborate rpm solenoid switch, too much for me.

And Congrats to me I cleaned the wrong injectors, and +1 more my haynes manual tricked me into putting my plugs in the wrong holes, I've got the leading up top, making it harder to start.

I've only taken the upper manifold off so far, since the lower manifold is closer to the hot part of the engine, am I going to destroy the gasket when I pull it off?

Doesn't matter since it doesn't run anyways guess Il find out tomorrow.

Thanks again rx7 club I admire your patience with us newbs

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

think of it this way..Leading is LOWER..trailing is TOP.
the primary injector rail is the smallest fuel rail(SEC is the upper rail and is bigger of course).
The actuators can be taken off and wired open.The holes left by the actuators do not have to be sealed as they are only to vacuum,and you can seal the small hose that went to the actuators with a screw.(or cap the vac nipple).
The hose that went to the actuators comes off the back of the engine and it connects with a Steel line that goes to the cat,so if that cat is not there then it is a good idea to think about how to either get the ports to activate or wire them open.

Redline420

I still have my air pump attached and I'm not planning on taking it off for an insignifigant power gain,
I seen a DIY to mod it and hook it up so that's an idea since I have no cats left its str8 2.5 looking maybe 3ish pipe I wouldn't get signifigant backpressure to activate the actuatora nor do I have the brains for the elaborate rpm switch procedure, for now until I get it running properly Il just wire them open.

Can't wait till I go the deepest I've ever been in my engine to clean my primary injectors. Nope it won't be a professional cleaning Il just do my best with a bottle of pressurised cleaner and my ghetto *** injector relay setup.

Any advice from pros working with these manifold gaskets? Thin layer of silicone to finish it off?

One question about the manifolds I will be taking off so I can reach my primary injectors, does this rough cast aluminum finish benefit me at all it can I get her polished or painted?

Cheers

whoknows

I'm a noob myself to working on mine as well. I had an 88 a long time ago but no means of working on it. And at that time it was only 5 years old at that time and didnt need anything, lol. Theres alot of good write ups on 6th port actuators. Mine werent functioning properly on mine when i got my s5, got them working now though. If your in the mood, or feel like spending the money at an exhaust shop, you can always tap in a line of your own off your exhaust, say off your pipe were your cat was. Say a 1/8 line such as brake line and get some brass fittings and tap your exhaust for that line and run it to power your actuators. When you get your car running that is. Easiest is as misterstyx said but you will be substituting low end power for high end power if you wire them to stay open, which may or not be a big deal to you if you like to stay in the high rpm range when driving anyway. Ive read alot of research on here on this subject from when trying to get my own to function correctly. The s5's actuators run off the air pump. There maybe a way to convert your actuators to work off of it but further research would need to be done. Aaron cake helped me out on mine alot. Maybe he or someone else like misterstyx can shed some info on how its done. Let us know how your coming along.

Redline420

Thanks whoknows
You bet Il report back after I clean my primaries and put her back togather.
Might get some pics too, this is supposed to be an s5 engine but all the hardware is s4 stuff, maybe just the blovk is s5 or maybe the seller bs me cause I've got that oil metering rod attached to my throttle.

Wish I lived in a bigger city with knowlegable people but I'm in a small town everyone drives civics and talons, not many 7's at all, and the only rotary Mecha is backed up and he doesn't have much knowledge off the top of his head to help with even my vacuum lines. Nor could he describe where my check valves go, turning me off of wanting to take my baby there for repairs.

whoknows

Well I believe there are benefits from not taking it to a mechanic unless you just have to. When it comes to myself, not every vehicle ive ever owned, but a few were terds and needed working on all the time and i have friends who also have terds that bust down now and then. Then I get called to help out. Where as I dont mind cause I enjoy it. I built my hot ride a fews years back but sold it to get something more conventional, not to mention thats when gas was 5 bucks a gallon, my rod got 9miles to the gallon and spent most its time in my garage. So you can save some money from not going to the mechanic, and you can really get to know your ride as far as how it runs, what it needs or doesnt need, and you can take alittle pride in knowing you do your own stuff. And you know your maintenence schedules. I almost bought an 87 turbo II with alot of stuff done to it. As much as i had the need for speed look in my eye, i decided on the na cause lord only knows what was really done to it, and if it was done right or not. Let us know when you get that beast running and what the solution was so the rest of us can know in case we have a problem such as yours.

Redline420

I agree whoknows, if I rely on a mech to get and or keep my 7 running I won't learn a thing.
On average between these boards and my manuals I do about 2 hours of reading each day, much more today since I was stuck in court all day waiting for my name to be called, and i did a lot of drooling over pictures of tuned and stock 7 engines.
And now I'm gonna start banging wrenches! My only immediate worry is the pleanum gaskets so Il be as careful as possible for this.
Thanks for advice and everything people.

Hope these injectors aren't seized NFG cause they're expensive but will easily fit in my pocket should I do a junkyard run.

Redline420

Cool no gasket casualties getting both intake pleanums removed
The primary injectors are in working condition, which is good and bad.
Good I don't need new injectors, bad I couldn't accuse them for keeping her from running.

Well Il get these cleaned up and put it all back togather, then reverse the spark plugs and see if that helps.
Phuuuccckkk

Redline420

Can't remember where I read on here but I swear I did;
Some of you guys use applicable lengths of rubber hose for new fuel injector grommets.
Do you use them as the bottom grommets or just the top or both?
I assume they'd work just fine on top, but the bottom takes some hefty heat cycling I'd assume.
Mine are **** stiff and I don't doubt they contribute to a vacuum leak.
Thanks in advance, again and again and again.
As for the O rings yes Il replace with brand new ones.

flaco

iTrader: (7)

**** stiff lol

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

www.injector-rehab.com has the grommets,etc that you need to re-do the injectors.
I got them all for like 25 bucks.
shipping is quick too.

Redline420

Thanks styx I ended up ordering parts through my #1 client, Mack Trucks, about 3 bucks per set, not too bad.

Think Il paint my intake pleanums, Il use high heat engine paint.
Any reason I shouldn't?

Redline420

Turns out one of my primary injectors is moody and was sticking open.
I'm confident that was the main reason I couldn't get her to idle below 3k rpm.
Gonna take it to injector cleaner guy and hopefully that will cut it.

Redline420

I think that questionable injector got temporarily locked open when I was doing the cleaning in reverse flush.
Ran 20 psi through it in the fuel feeding direction, toggled on off injector button and she came to life.

I must also clean my intake manifolds up, they're gross.
And two air inlets or outlets are plugged. The two that share sifting with the secondary injectors inlet, air should flow freely through here rite?