boby_xt

Hello, i have a 86 gxl with a stock block and i have turbocharged it. When i installed the turbo i had to remove the solenoids that control the 5th and 6th port. I did not remove the shafts,clamps or anything beside the actual solenoids. I know that the sleevs inside are important for low and hi end tork for stock use but... in my case do i need to remove them??
Would it make a difference or is just some useless work?
Thank you in advance for your help

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you wire the sleeves closed you will have approximately the same port timing as a TII. Just a bit less aggressive. If you wire them open, you will have much more port area and low end will suffer, but midrange and top end will benefit and for the most part, forced induction will help a lot with the lack of low end.

So my first suggestion is to make them functional. If not, then wire them open.

boby_xt

First thank you for your quick reply. Due to the limited space i cannot install them back so i will wire them open. Is it the same thing as taking the intake apart and pull the sleevs out??Thanks again.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Functionally that would be the same, yes. Actually a little better with the sleeves in as with them out, the air has to make some odd curves due to a dead end in the passage.

boby_xt

OK. Thank you for you help. Hopefully this summer i will get another car to drive around( since the rx7 is my only car) and pull the engine out to rebuild and port it. I have never done this before but after watching your Cosmo rebuild videos i am confident i can do it.
Thanks allot again for your quick response and help.

boby_xt

So, i had on sleeve on one off that is why my car was running like cr*p. Anyway i also replaced the secondary injectors with 760cc. I installed a aeromotive 340 fuel pump and a adjustable pressure regulator. I have removed the stock one .
I know you posted on the forum not to tune the A/F with the regulator and use the SAFC but i just cannot get it running good. Doing research and couldn't find much information i decided to adjust the regulator to 36 psi (vacuum unplugged) and 30( vacuum plugged). This way it would not idle so i had to increase the idle to 1200RMP. At low throttle i have -20% around idle RPM and is still running very rich. I increased fuel after 4k 5% 6K 25% and at max boost after 6k it at the optimum to lean limit.....ir drives me crazy.
Can you please tell me if i should put back the old regulator or what pressure should i adjust this one to?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Run stock fuel pressure.

How are you adjusting fuel? S-AFC? Maybe post a little about your setup like what ECU, turbo, etc...

boby_xt

Hello Aaron, my setup is:
-Stock GXL block (approx 45k original miles) –Block off plates (cold start and EGR)
- First butterfly removed from the throttle body
- FD alternator with optima battery
-5th and 6th ports open at all times
-Stock oil pan with return tap (for the turbo) and baffle plate.
-Glow shift oil filter adapter for turbo feed and temperature probe.
-NGK L and T spark plugs with Magnecor 10mm wires.
-Koyo radiator with electric fan.
-Stock fuel rails with stock primary injectors and 760CC secondary injectors. Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator set @ 45 psi and Aeromotive 340 fuel pump.
-Stock ECU with S-AFC2. I am working on it every day but there are options that I don’t know what to adjust them to (dec.air, knock, throttle correction, set point which are 35-65). I set it up like this because others did so. I don’t exactly know what it means….Also the car would not idle since I changed the fuel pump and I had to set idle to 1200 RPM.
-Garrett T3/T04E Stage 3 Turbo 60 Trim , .82 Exhaust housing. External waste gate with 14 psi spring. (also have a 9 psi in the garage). Turbo has a fiberglass blanket. Manual boost controller (set for the minimum 14 psi).
-Home made 2.5” exhaust from turbo to under the car and then 3” to mid muffler, 3” split to 2x N1 looking rear mufflers.
-Front mount intercooler (aftermarket) with fiberglass and aluminum tape wrap (because the pipes get hot). 2.5” aluminum piping with HKS BOV. (It is set up almost like your phase 1)
-Single band A/F for stock o2. Glow Shift wideband for aftermarket o2.
-Glow shift oil, water temperature (Celsius), 30 psi boost gauge.
-Manny other mods but I think irrelevant for this conversation.(strut bars, battery, body kit, manual steering rack…..etc)

boby_xt

Today was warm outside so i decided to drive around. I have noticed that from second gear on if the car is full boost and going in high RMP 5500-7000 i hear some popping/knocking noise. This is only when i floor it. It does not make any noise in first gear because is short. Second gear an on, because it stays boosted longer it makes that noise. Is it detonation or turbo housing rubbing? I have looked at the turbo but it has zero shaft play so, it should not be from the turbo....Also my A/F at that point is at the limit between optimum and lean.

Rx7Drifter7290

how much did the kit cost u?

boby_xt

What kit??

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need a standalone. You're so far beyond what the stock ECU is capable of supporting that nothing you do will be able to correct all the drivability problems. And meanwhile, that NA ECU is giving the engine 35 degrees of timing under boost, so with those AFRs you're going to blow the engine. The popping you hear is it running lean with too much timing.

boby_xt

Ok. Thank you Aaron for the help. Until i have the funds for a standalone what do you recommend to do? change timing or change waste gate spring and run less boost?