1988 Rx7 Wont start! Help!
1988 Rx7 Wont start! Help!
My 1988 Rx7 13b NA is not starting.
It was really hard to start the other day after it was sitting around for a couple weeks without being started. It eventually turned over, and shot out a bunch of smoke from the exhaust.
Then I drove it for the day, it turned off/on/off/on/off/on throughout the day with no problems. It's ignition did sound a bit funky though.
Now today, I try to start it, and it wont turn over, but there is some smoke eminating from the car somewhere as I try to turn it over. It just keeps trying to turn over. Actually the first turn of the key it seemed as if it turned over and then died immediately; it did this when it was sitting around for a couple weeks earlier too.
What could be the problem? Flooded? Bad Compression? How do I diagnose and fix it?
It was really hard to start the other day after it was sitting around for a couple weeks without being started. It eventually turned over, and shot out a bunch of smoke from the exhaust.
Then I drove it for the day, it turned off/on/off/on/off/on throughout the day with no problems. It's ignition did sound a bit funky though.
Now today, I try to start it, and it wont turn over, but there is some smoke eminating from the car somewhere as I try to turn it over. It just keeps trying to turn over. Actually the first turn of the key it seemed as if it turned over and then died immediately; it did this when it was sitting around for a couple weeks earlier too.
What could be the problem? Flooded? Bad Compression? How do I diagnose and fix it?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
So the engine won't rotate (turn over) at all with the key? Or it won't start up?
It's a bit confusing because the term "turn over" means to rotate with the starter. It sounds like the engine actually is turning over but just not starting based on what your post says.
If it is not turning over, then check the main battery cables, starter and ignition switch.
If it is turning over but not starting, run through the standard checks. Make sure it is not flooded, then check for fuel and spark.
It's a bit confusing because the term "turn over" means to rotate with the starter. It sounds like the engine actually is turning over but just not starting based on what your post says.
If it is not turning over, then check the main battery cables, starter and ignition switch.
If it is turning over but not starting, run through the standard checks. Make sure it is not flooded, then check for fuel and spark.
I assume it cranks but will not fire. Flooding is one possibility; the 86-88s were prone to flooded starts, especially during a hot start.
You can clear a flooded start by removing the EGI fuse, cranking it for a while, and then putting the fuse back in. If it was flooded, it should start normally after replacing the fuse.
I have installed a 'hot start' switch in my 86 for just that reason.
Flooded start behavior is also sometimes a symptom of low compression, which can be caused by a stuck seal, which can happen after the car sits for a while. If that is the case, if you can get it started and then run it for a while it may come unstuck.
Check also the linkage to the metering oil pump (front right hand side of engine). The clip can sometimes fall off the pushrod, and then the metering oil pump is no longer metered, and you will not get the required amount of oil injected at the intake manifold. This could (theoretcally) lead to premature seal wear and or a stuck seal.
You can clear a flooded start by removing the EGI fuse, cranking it for a while, and then putting the fuse back in. If it was flooded, it should start normally after replacing the fuse.
I have installed a 'hot start' switch in my 86 for just that reason.
Flooded start behavior is also sometimes a symptom of low compression, which can be caused by a stuck seal, which can happen after the car sits for a while. If that is the case, if you can get it started and then run it for a while it may come unstuck.
Check also the linkage to the metering oil pump (front right hand side of engine). The clip can sometimes fall off the pushrod, and then the metering oil pump is no longer metered, and you will not get the required amount of oil injected at the intake manifold. This could (theoretcally) lead to premature seal wear and or a stuck seal.
I assume it cranks but will not fire. Flooding is one possibility; the 86-88s were prone to flooded starts, especially during a hot start.
You can clear a flooded start by removing the EGI fuse, cranking it for a while, and then putting the fuse back in. If it was flooded, it should start normally after replacing the fuse.
I have installed a 'hot start' switch in my 86 for just that reason.
Flooded start behavior is also sometimes a symptom of low compression, which can be caused by a stuck seal, which can happen after the car sits for a while. If that is the case, if you can get it started and then run it for a while it may come unstuck.
Check also the linkage to the metering oil pump (front right hand side of engine). The clip can sometimes fall off the pushrod, and then the metering oil pump is no longer metered, and you will not get the required amount of oil injected at the intake manifold. This could (theoretcally) lead to premature seal wear and or a stuck seal.
You can clear a flooded start by removing the EGI fuse, cranking it for a while, and then putting the fuse back in. If it was flooded, it should start normally after replacing the fuse.
I have installed a 'hot start' switch in my 86 for just that reason.
Flooded start behavior is also sometimes a symptom of low compression, which can be caused by a stuck seal, which can happen after the car sits for a while. If that is the case, if you can get it started and then run it for a while it may come unstuck.
Check also the linkage to the metering oil pump (front right hand side of engine). The clip can sometimes fall off the pushrod, and then the metering oil pump is no longer metered, and you will not get the required amount of oil injected at the intake manifold. This could (theoretcally) lead to premature seal wear and or a stuck seal.
I followed the instructions on the liquid ceramic bars leak head and gasket sealer. It seems to be working so far. I let it sit overnight to air out, flushed it a bit, and then filled it up with water. It sat for 4 days, and started up perfectly with no white smoke. I still have to go finish flushing the liquid ceramic stuff fully before I add coolant though. Runs fine, hopefully it'll last.
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Just thought I would put in my feedback on this issue since I had these problems getting my 88 started after it sat for 5 months for the winter. Thought that I had compression problems because I couldn't get it started. But really what it came down to was just a little buildup on the spark plugs, cleaned them off. Then made sure that I put the pedal ALL the way to the floor while cranking. May seem counter intuitive since you don't want to flood the engine. But the ECU will cut off the fuel it seems. Doing this maximizes the amount of compression that you are able to get and the most oxygen. Now I rarely have to do this, but it's good to have this little piece of information when trying to get your engine going after it has sat for a while! Good luck to those that come across this!
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