davis1d0

I'm looking at getting my hands on a 13b for a swap project, but I do not know enough about what the differences are, what will offer the best base platform for me to start with and so on.

The details are these, I would like to make some wheres around 260hp to 275hp. Not a tall task from what I'm reading. I just don't know where to start. should I be after an N/A engine and work to boosting it? By one of the late 80s turbo engines or would I be better off with the 13b TT?

Next is the question of getting a junk yard engine and rebuilding or would I be better off getting a complete engine from a JDM site? A little extra information, I will need to get the wiring harness and ecu with the motor and will need to get a trans as well.

At this point there is not such thing for my project as swap the motor and get on the road, I will need to do a lot of work so if I have to source items over time or do a rebuild no big deal. Though I'm not going to lie, if I didn't need to put too much extra money and time into the motor for a few years after purchase I wouldn't mind that.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

well,it depends on what you are going to out this "13b" into.
State your Car or your WISH car.

JDM engines are "hit and miss".They are engines that are taken out sprayed with water to look good and you get what you get..hopefully you get a good one.MOST of the time you get a Lawn ornament that needs a rebuild.
I wouldn't be jumping up and down that you purchased a JDM engine and then install it right off the bat.This is the "best way" to discourage any person from any further contact with rotary engines!.Give them a Ebay "special" and say "it's a perfect running engine".

davis1d0

The car will be a converted ZX2, if I even do it, so I don't know how much of a difference that will make. I'm looking at using 323 GTX rear spindles, with Fiesta hubs, and a custom sub frame or reinforced 323 GTX sub. My current suspension setup will work with all of the 323 parts and will be fine for a custom sub as long as I leave the mounting points the same in relation to the wheel location. The front of the car is where the issue come in. I would need to have a good under standing of the location of the motor mounts, motor size in all directions, trans length, mounting position, location of shifter, and such.

I think I may have been better off asking my question/s in a little different fashion than my first post does. I'm more looking for what engine will allow me my goals, and from what car I should be looking to source said engine. This way I can work on how to place the motor into the car, then once I know that it will fit, and roughly how it will fit, I can begin working on making sure the engine that I have purchased is good to run or is correctly rebuilt. My main reasoning for the JDM route is that everything comes together in a nice little package and doesn't require me to try and find a RX7 in a yard near me as I can't remember having seen one anytime recently.

I hope this clears up what I'm asking a little.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

well, as long as you're shooting for 260 to 275 in RWD format, then it doesn't much matter whether you get the 13B-T (go for a S5) or -REW. the blocks are all the same physical size and they are all capable of doing what you want power-wise - no problem.

for what it's worth, the -T mounts from the center and the -REW mounts from the rear. i'm not sure if any of that will matter simply because it's a completely custom setup that you're planning on. also, the REW uses a pull-type clutch setup stock so that may or may not be an issue when it comes to the tranny you choose.

earthtone7se

The S5 (1989-91) 13B-T is the way I'd go. Much more straightforward than the REW and can easily make 300hp.

davis1d0

Thanks for the info , this is the stuff I need to learn to make my project even possible.

Evil Aviator

I would use a 13BT or 13B-REW. The 13BT will take a little work to reach your hp goal, but it is not that complicated to do so. The later 13B-REW engines are in your hp range in stock form, but they are more expensive, and the sequenced turbos are a little difficult to deal with so most people replace them with a single aftermarket turbo.

I wouldn't bother with the outdated stock ECU, worn-out sensors, and brittle old wiring harness. You can get a good budget standalone EMS and new flying lead wiring harness for as little as $1,000. This will allow for a nice, clean installation in your custom car. The only downside is that you would need to have a professional tune it if you are not able to do so yourself.
http://www.lms-efi.com/sunshop/index...oduct_list&c=2

davis1d0

At Evil Aviator....

The ECU would be a great addition, though pricing does make it a luxury to start with. As for the wiring I'm not worried about that, I work with industrial controls all day at work and most of that is designing and troubleshooting so it should not be hard for me to mend and manipulate the harness for the project. But I will keep that in mind for future use.

davis1d0

Sense I have the thread I'm just going to ask other questions here instead of starting a new one.

Rear Diff: I've done my research and I'm down to two rear diffs to select from, first is the Ford T-Bird 7.5 with a trac lok and the second is a 2nd gen RX7 diff housing with a LSD installed. With that said, the big questions are mounting locations, axle spline counts, and drive shaft mount style.

Questions about the RX7 diff. After having looked at a few of these in pictures and mechanical drawings I like how it mounts at the back of the pumpkin, but I couldn't seem to find out if there is a second mount, which I would believe there is. Also does anyone know axle spline count?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

^ this.

i'm actually kind of chuckling as I read this because I edited my original post and took this suggestion out. my comment was aimed primarily at if you decided to go with the REW (from what I've gathered, getting it to run completely stock outside of an FD is a nightmare) but it sort of applies to either choice as well.

at the end of the day though, you have to make the call because it's your project and if you have the time and ability to wade through it, then more power to you. however you get it to run, it'll still be awesome to see a ZX2 actually worth a damn. the last "good" Escort was the Mark II RS2000.

davis1d0

My issue with the suggest equipment is that I don't have a good turner around here, at least not that I know of. The few places that I do know of that do tuning are just too expensive. But it does make sense to see if I can't find a way to use this method. I read more about what is offered.