this Nissan sounds funny

I searched, but didn't find anything, but somebody has had to have done this or at least asked about this before me.

Let's ignore the fact that it's a lot of work and expense for a result that could be had cheaper and easier from just about any tool store. I'm a goofy bastard and I'll go to great lengths to entertain myself so get silly with me here.

I'm just brainstorming at the moment.It's not fully baked in my mind, and, no, my mind is not baked either! Caffeine, yeah, we got lots of that.

So, to the hurdles I have seen so far.

1. pressure and flow.

How much pressure and how much CFM do people thing each rotor could pump?

Would I HAVE to go with NA rotors to get decent production?

The engine I might have on the hook is an S5 and supposedly popped an apex seal so the rotor(s) might be munched. If I have to buy new rotors, of course, I would grab the NA models.

Would porting up to and including peripheral porting increase pressure and/or CFM?

2. Lubrication.

How to lubricate the rotors?

I was thinking of using the OMP with a reservoir feeding air compressor oil to the working bits.

I don't see any reason to change the main oil system. It should still function whether it's being driven by the rotors or by an electric motor spinning the E shaft. I would retain the factory oil cooler.

3. collecting the air.

To me it seems the best way to vent the air through the spark plug holes and plug the exhaust ports. I think just using the trailing would be good, but perhaps using both would work better?

If I plug the spark plug holes and vent from the exhaust port it would have lost pressure. With plugged exhaust ports any air not vented out through the spark plug holes with puff back into the incoming intake charge during the overlap.

4. Cooling

The water pump would be working so as long as I put a radiator on it it should be cool running. I wouldn't expect it to get as hot as a running gas burning engine, but compressing air will create heat that must be addressed.


After that, I would expect all the other bits and design concerns would be standard air compressor stuff, check valves, receiver dryers, lines and tank etc.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I am kind of confused as to what you want to do.
IF you want to use the Internals as a source of compressing air and sending it elsewhere( say a Tank) then what is going to turn the engine over?
Also,If you do get by that hurdle then you need Internal lubrication for the Apex seals and that means that you have to Inject oil into the Housing.
Your air will have Hints of LUBE in it.

I don't think you put the Pin on the donkey with this one.

this Nissan sounds funny

Pin firmly placed in donkey. DONKEY!

gerald m

Confucius say pin never firmly in place , but bounce around like fart in big mitt.

haven't read any threads on this but I sure someone has . doubt you will get much pressure much over 100 psi maybe a little more . If you are going to spin it with electric It might take a good size motor to spin the little engine fast enough ..

Depending on what shape the engine is , there might be enough blow by from the crank case to lube the top end just through the intake plenum . without the engine burning fuel the oil should stay clean . Or just use an old school drip oiler with mineral oil . I don't think it would take much to lube the housings without ignition , Where could the oil go ? Good luck you G...y b..//rd hope it works out .

this Nissan sounds funny

The engine would be rebuilt nice and tight.

It's not an exercise to see if I could do it, like a drunken dare. I would be expecting to use it in the shop for real work so I would do it, whatever "it" winds up being, right. I need a compressor and I just like the idea of a compressor that is as interesting as my vehicles.

Duties would be pretty pedestrian, inflating tires and running an assortment of hand-held air tools. I won't be doing anything heavy duty so I would expect a solid 100 PSI with enough CFM and a nice size tank would do me just fine.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

CFM of course would depend on what RPM you can turn the engine. Around redline you're talking about 300 for the typical stock port rotary.

You'd need to bore a big hole in place of the spark plug holes and mount your check valve. You could also then cut another intake port at the bottom of the engine and extract air from the other side as well.

However....you'd need about 150HP to drive it! Also, a coalescing oil filter on the output as you'll need to feed oil into the intake air to keep the seals lubricated.

this Nissan sounds funny

I wouldn't want to redline it, just produce a solid 100-120 PSI and a reasonable CFM to run small shop tools. What CFM would you think would be adequate for that task?

So you are saying open up the plug holes because they can't pass enough air in time or because a standard check valve is larger than the hole?

So the OMP squirting compressor oil would not be adequate to lube the seals?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If all you want to do is run a few shop tools, around 10 - 14 CFM should be fine.

Seems like a LOT of trouble to go through when you can buy a compressor pump capable of that for $200. And it will take a lot less power to run, probably cost way less in the long term.

Trying to use the plug holes would be a major bottleneck in the system.