The subframe is in and the project is rolling =)
01-29-05, 05:36 PM
#1
Zero Rotor Motorsports
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The subframe is in and the project is rolling =)
Well the subframe is modified and bolted in - now there's a LOT of work cutout for me and the folks helping out. I can't wait until I get a chance to shovel the driveway, roll it outside, and clean out the dead engine dirt that's in there.
Thought I'd throw up a couple pics so the locals can see what they're in for
This is the FC right now, albeit with less snow since it's been melting.
This is the motor and transmission I'm putting in the FD. LS1/T56 6 speed out of an 01 WS6 w/23k miles:
The modified subframe installed (setup for GM motor mounts):
How it looks in the garage right now (although I did put the wheels on it and set it down):
Thought I'd throw up a couple pics so the locals can see what they're in for
This is the FC right now, albeit with less snow since it's been melting.
This is the motor and transmission I'm putting in the FD. LS1/T56 6 speed out of an 01 WS6 w/23k miles:
The modified subframe installed (setup for GM motor mounts):
How it looks in the garage right now (although I did put the wheels on it and set it down):
01-29-05, 07:44 PM
#3
Zero Rotor Motorsports
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I don't believe everything I read, especially on the internet. But I've seen specs on the LS1 and I've seen specs on the stock rotary with twins. Based on posts from at least 5 people who've completed this specific conversion, it should handle just as good, weigh about 50lbs less and have a much more useable powerband than stock. I've driven LS1 cars and they are incredibly driveable - and this is about 700lbs lighter. This will be a daily driver, not a drag stip terror or a road course warrior. I expect I will be completely satisfied once I've finished it. I imagine I will pick at the things that are wrong with the car (I got a deal because it was in less than perect shape) for awhile, but I doubt I will have a problem with the way it handles. And no, I doubt I will let you drive it
From www.hinsonsupercars.com:
How much will the car weigh?
Answer) The aluminum GM LS1 and LS6 engines are extremely light power plants. With the complete removal of the 13B and the sequential turbo assembly, the project car's final weight is less than the total gross vehicle weight of a stock Mazda RX7. The final weight of the car is listed below. The car weighed 2,831lbs with a full Touring interior, sunroof, complete Bose sound system including the "Sound Wave," and a 1/4 tank of gas.
LF: 746 RF: 677 Total Front: 1,423lbs
LR: 675 RR: 733 Total Rear: 1,408lbs
From www.hinsonsupercars.com:
How much will the car weigh?
Answer) The aluminum GM LS1 and LS6 engines are extremely light power plants. With the complete removal of the 13B and the sequential turbo assembly, the project car's final weight is less than the total gross vehicle weight of a stock Mazda RX7. The final weight of the car is listed below. The car weighed 2,831lbs with a full Touring interior, sunroof, complete Bose sound system including the "Sound Wave," and a 1/4 tank of gas.
LF: 746 RF: 677 Total Front: 1,423lbs
LR: 675 RR: 733 Total Rear: 1,408lbs
01-30-05, 06:12 PM
#5
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That's ok. I only spent about an hour or so out there today. We went and had a few drinks last night and felt like a lazy day since we've both been working hard for the last couple weeks.
Corey was here and basically matched the instrument cluster up with the plugs in the dash. Marked the wires and we're going to start preparing for the engine harness modifications. Several companies charge $400 and up for it - hoping to save that by wiring it ourselves. From what I've read, there are about 19 wires from the engine harness that get matched to wires from the car, and the rest are removed. It can't be THAT difficult.
I'm trying to decide if I want to keep ABS and power steering. For daily driving, power steering will probably make it slightly easier on me. ABS is one of those things you don't really miss until it's gone and you needed it, but it takes up a huge amount of room for that small engine bay. Oh well. I'll figure it out eventually.
Corey was here and basically matched the instrument cluster up with the plugs in the dash. Marked the wires and we're going to start preparing for the engine harness modifications. Several companies charge $400 and up for it - hoping to save that by wiring it ourselves. From what I've read, there are about 19 wires from the engine harness that get matched to wires from the car, and the rest are removed. It can't be THAT difficult.
I'm trying to decide if I want to keep ABS and power steering. For daily driving, power steering will probably make it slightly easier on me. ABS is one of those things you don't really miss until it's gone and you needed it, but it takes up a huge amount of room for that small engine bay. Oh well. I'll figure it out eventually.
01-30-05, 08:49 PM
#7
Jesus is the Messiah
I lothe ABS, and have never 'needed' it.
I don't have ABS on any of my cars anymore.
In fact, I am contemplating a manual brake conversion for my 'vert.
I like power stearing tho
I don't have ABS on any of my cars anymore.
In fact, I am contemplating a manual brake conversion for my 'vert.
I like power stearing tho
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01-31-05, 12:06 AM
#8
I am 2Furious
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Can you really tell the difference betweeen having ABS and not? I read an article saying that most people never engage ABS because they don't press down on the brakes hard enough.
01-31-05, 05:33 AM
#9
Zero Rotor Motorsports
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I've been able to tell the difference on my Tahoe, but mostly in the winter. Only a few times has it kicked on with just rain, and never when it's been dry. I doubt I'd miss it, I just wanted to get some opinions and it sounds like I won't be needing it 
01-31-05, 08:36 AM
#11
Jesus is the Messiah
I seriously don't like the idea of some computer second-guessing what I want to do.
ABS INCREASES YOUR STOPPING DISTANCE. Controlled breaking works much better. Also, in conditions such as snow and gravel, if you want to stop fast, you WANT to lock the wheels to biuld up a "wedge" in front of the wheels. SOME cars with ABS (I know GM does this) disable the Anti-lock portion if you slam on the break twice. Thats a bit more time then I want to invest.
ABS INCREASES YOUR STOPPING DISTANCE. Controlled breaking works much better. Also, in conditions such as snow and gravel, if you want to stop fast, you WANT to lock the wheels to biuld up a "wedge" in front of the wheels. SOME cars with ABS (I know GM does this) disable the Anti-lock portion if you slam on the break twice. Thats a bit more time then I want to invest.
01-31-05, 09:51 AM
#12
Originally Posted by gingenhagen
Can you really tell the difference betweeen having ABS and not? I read an article saying that most people never engage ABS because they don't press down on the brakes hard enough.
Then you don't drive your car hard enough
. I can't stand ABS, It's a system designed around the idea that the driver is an idiot and will slam on brakes given the situation. If you just apply firm gradually increasing pressure, you will stop quicker. I lock the ABS on the audi all the time, luckily the porsche calipers overpower the abs system.Mazdatrix makes ABS delete systems.
01-31-05, 10:10 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
Mazdatrix makes ABS delete systems.
I guess you could probably just use any brake line male to male adapter from a parts store.
01-31-05, 09:02 PM
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lol yea line-lock is fun, but I'd be spending twice as much on tires as necessary. Something tells me I will be able to spin them without it if I try really really hard
I may hit the dragstrip once or twice out of curiosity, but I won't need line lock for this one.
I may hit the dragstrip once or twice out of curiosity, but I won't need line lock for this one.
02-01-05, 12:10 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Kahren
sell the fd, and get a vette it will work better and u will be much happier
BOOOOO
Saw a pair of yellow vettes, matching aftermarket headlights, fog lights cruise pass me on 695 about 12am tonight, got off on 795 heading towards owings mills....
Friends of yours?
02-01-05, 02:22 AM
#23
i am not a girl
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abs in the fd works very well, dont compare sports car abs to ford taurus abs, they are very diffrent. you can not control the left and right tire braking in a corner the computer can. if you are an experienced driver you can use this to your advantage if not it doesnt matter what brakes you have. the abs cars are faster period.
02-01-05, 06:21 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by vosko
well i upgraded the brake hydraulics and could no longer do burnouts.......that sucked and had to be taken care of
Originally Posted by Kahren
sell the fd, and get a vette it will work better and u will be much happier
Originally Posted by Kahren
abs in the fd works very well, dont compare sports car abs to ford taurus abs, they are very diffrent. you can not control the left and right tire braking in a corner the computer can. if you are an experienced driver you can use this to your advantage if not it doesnt matter what brakes you have. the abs cars are faster period.
Last edited by Crash Test Joey; 02-01-05 at 06:27 AM.
02-01-05, 10:09 AM
#25
Originally Posted by Kahren
abs in the fd works very well, dont compare sports car abs to ford taurus abs, they are very diffrent. you can not control the left and right tire braking in a corner the computer can. if you are an experienced driver you can use this to your advantage if not it doesnt matter what brakes you have. the abs cars are faster period.