Maryland guys!
Yeah I am anti NA power because I have a grip on reality and realize power to weight ratios. And when Landers and I did my swap a guy showed up at his house to pick up my na tranny out of the vert and loaded it on to the front of his bmx he was riding and drove it away like that. I kinda had to laugh a little but I was in the deep woods of Tennesse.
Originally Posted by Crash Test Joey
Why not? Driveshafts are easily modified. What else won't fit? 

"I think it's probably easier to just get a TII rear than to modify the drive shaft."
It tuff to piece together all this stuff. Best to find a donor t2 and take the tranny, Drive shaft, half shafts, and rear end. And you will have to check Landers web site to find out what clutch setup you will have to run with the t2 tranny. And this stuff is all larger and more beefier. So its all heavier. T2 drive train is supposed to handle 500+ hp without a sweat. Their are 3rd gen drag guys swapping over to t2 trannies and rear ends because they are a little stronger and alot cheaper to get.
It tuff to piece together all this stuff. Best to find a donor t2 and take the tranny, Drive shaft, half shafts, and rear end. And you will have to check Landers web site to find out what clutch setup you will have to run with the t2 tranny. And this stuff is all larger and more beefier. So its all heavier. T2 drive train is supposed to handle 500+ hp without a sweat. Their are 3rd gen drag guys swapping over to t2 trannies and rear ends because they are a little stronger and alot cheaper to get.
Originally Posted by Bukwild
Yeah I am anti NA power because I have a grip on reality and realize power to weight ratios. And when Landers and I did my swap a guy showed up at his house to pick up my na tranny out of the vert and loaded it on to the front of his bmx he was riding and drove it away like that. I kinda had to laugh a little but I was in the deep woods of Tennesse.
People have tried to do this with turbos, but it's never as good as NA...
Now I wouldn't be opposed to a blower though because that just feels like an NA with more torque.... max revs are still usually lower than on an NA engine of the same type though.
"Some people (me) prefer smooth, lag-free power delivery all the way through the revs...
People have tried to do this with turbos, but it's never as good as NA...
Now I wouldn't be opposed to a blower though because that just feels like an NA with more torque.... max revs are still usually lower than on an NA engine of the same type though."
you might want to check into the posts of the forum members that run a 60-1. This turbo will not give you great top end dyno numbers but it will hit full boost at 3000 rpms and will come on strong right up to 8k. And I wouldn't call 150 rwhp in a 2700lbs car great power delivery. I am not against NA's, I am agaisnt people throwing money away trying to mod a NA and thinking that it will ever be a fast car. Because this is tried and proven that its useless every summer but someone that drops 4k into his car and comes up with 180-185rwhp. To get the power to weight ratio in your favor you would need the NA to put down 270-280 to the rear wheel to compensate for the weight of the car/driver/full tank of gas. A 86-91 6 port is not getting this done unless you do a full bridge. And then it will not be something you can drive in traffic and you will have to rebuild ever 20k miles. But for some reason every year we have this discussion.
People have tried to do this with turbos, but it's never as good as NA...
Now I wouldn't be opposed to a blower though because that just feels like an NA with more torque.... max revs are still usually lower than on an NA engine of the same type though."
you might want to check into the posts of the forum members that run a 60-1. This turbo will not give you great top end dyno numbers but it will hit full boost at 3000 rpms and will come on strong right up to 8k. And I wouldn't call 150 rwhp in a 2700lbs car great power delivery. I am not against NA's, I am agaisnt people throwing money away trying to mod a NA and thinking that it will ever be a fast car. Because this is tried and proven that its useless every summer but someone that drops 4k into his car and comes up with 180-185rwhp. To get the power to weight ratio in your favor you would need the NA to put down 270-280 to the rear wheel to compensate for the weight of the car/driver/full tank of gas. A 86-91 6 port is not getting this done unless you do a full bridge. And then it will not be something you can drive in traffic and you will have to rebuild ever 20k miles. But for some reason every year we have this discussion.
Originally Posted by muythaibxr
Some people (me) prefer smooth, lag-free power delivery all the way through the revs...
I also like lag-free power delivery.
-89T2 (stock turbo, however a GT35R or most BB turbos would do just as good a job at lag free delivery).
If you want that low end grunt of a V or I6, seriously, wrong car.
N/a's are good for people looking for an autoX car where power adders are not allowed. The car itself has no polar movement which is perfect for grip driving at the track. A s4 n/a with a high skid pad cornering G and low wieght retaining 50/50 balance is perfect at the autox.
With more wieght, the transitions from left to right in a low polar movement car become more violent and harder to control, even by compensating with thicker anti-sway bars, a cage, and corner wieghted and tuned coilovers. It just takes more patience to put it through the track.
Again, that's my take on it, ymmv.
Originally Posted by eage8
I think it's probably easier to just get a TII rear than to modify the drive shaft.
I don't know about all the clutch and flywheel issues. If they won't bolt on from one to the other, I wouldn't bother upgrading to the TII trans. But then.. everyone knows what I do with an RX7 that I don't think has enough power or the drivetrain to handle it

Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
If you want that low end grunt of a V or I6, seriously, wrong car.
I dont think anything about me resembles a hobbit (except my hairy feet).
Jewish hobbits? Now that would be interesting . . . theres this viton O-ring I'm supposed to throw into this mountain anyway, but thats a story for another time. Shalom.
Anyway, the filming of Deliverence III is going very well for now, thanks for asking. :p
Jewish hobbits? Now that would be interesting . . . theres this viton O-ring I'm supposed to throw into this mountain anyway, but thats a story for another time. Shalom.
Anyway, the filming of Deliverence III is going very well for now, thanks for asking. :p
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
I also like lag-free power delivery.
-89T2 (stock turbo, however a GT35R or most BB turbos would do just as good a job at lag free delivery).
If you want that low end grunt of a V or I6, seriously, wrong car.
N/a's are good for people looking for an autoX car where power adders are not allowed. The car itself has no polar movement which is perfect for grip driving at the track. A s4 n/a with a high skid pad cornering G and low wieght retaining 50/50 balance is perfect at the autox.
With more wieght, the transitions from left to right in a low polar movement car become more violent and harder to control, even by compensating with thicker anti-sway bars, a cage, and corner wieghted and tuned coilovers. It just takes more patience to put it through the track.
Again, that's my take on it, ymmv.
-89T2 (stock turbo, however a GT35R or most BB turbos would do just as good a job at lag free delivery).
If you want that low end grunt of a V or I6, seriously, wrong car.
N/a's are good for people looking for an autoX car where power adders are not allowed. The car itself has no polar movement which is perfect for grip driving at the track. A s4 n/a with a high skid pad cornering G and low wieght retaining 50/50 balance is perfect at the autox.
With more wieght, the transitions from left to right in a low polar movement car become more violent and harder to control, even by compensating with thicker anti-sway bars, a cage, and corner wieghted and tuned coilovers. It just takes more patience to put it through the track.
Again, that's my take on it, ymmv.
Back to the point at hand: *cough*
If I can get the back end off F1blue for what I paid jason for the tranny...then that would be awsome. If not tell me, so I can werk with jason on getting that tranny in my car so I can drive it. Cuz the del sol is going soon (unless someone wants to beat the price of $4100).
If I can get the back end off F1blue for what I paid jason for the tranny...then that would be awsome. If not tell me, so I can werk with jason on getting that tranny in my car so I can drive it. Cuz the del sol is going soon (unless someone wants to beat the price of $4100).
I just had an interesting idea!
Since so much werk needs to be done to my baby, I found a perfect s5 automatic rx7 for $500 bucks.
Swaping the manual in won't be a prob excpet for one thing that has me kinda iffy.
Whats the deal with the automatic tranny mount that is different from the manual?
Since so much werk needs to be done to my baby, I found a perfect s5 automatic rx7 for $500 bucks.
Swaping the manual in won't be a prob excpet for one thing that has me kinda iffy.
Whats the deal with the automatic tranny mount that is different from the manual?
The auto mounts are in a different place.
I have some manual mounts that you can weld up and it will be good as new.
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News flash! I'm selling almost all my stuff! Yeh!
That includes my PS2 and Dreamcastaru and all that fun stuff! Woo! Who wants to buy?
I have some manual mounts that you can weld up and it will be good as new.

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News flash! I'm selling almost all my stuff! Yeh!
That includes my PS2 and Dreamcastaru and all that fun stuff! Woo! Who wants to buy?





