Iam from williamsburg and i,ll be getting my car back saturday its a 89 gtu so somebody on here give me the word on where the next rotary meeting will be.

 

It is back one page..... but here you go again:

 

All the electrical stuff on the car works great but it's still got issues.....
On startup, car idles up to about 2.5k rpm, then after a bit, it drops to 1.5k rpm then to about 750rpm, runs rich. At 750rpm, the engine shakes enough to cause the shifter shake badly. When you try to drive it, it has very poor power and shakes when you stop. At a stop, I can rev it up to 6 - 7k and it's fine.... I'm wondering if it's another loose vac hose or a bad apex seal. I'm having it sent to the dealership on Mecury Blvd(Hampton, and at the moment I'm in Hartford, CT doing some work) to check the hoses and compression, but does anyone know of a good local rotary shop?? Thanks!!! I'm hopin' the car will be in good enough shape to go to the meeting on Sat, else I'll have to drive the Outback and just drool at the other cars......

 

A piece of Mazda Rotary history is for sale on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4536267446

Last one of these that sold on Ebay was for around $45K if I remember correctly and that one had nothing like the history this one has. I would not be surprised if it nears $100K (not expecting it, but I will not be surprised either).

As far as your car. It sounds like another vac hose or something. The only way to be sure is to do a compression check, but if you had a bad apex seal, I suspect that it would not idle at 750 RPM's. I suspect it would barely idle and sound like it was wheezing. If it can idle at 2.5K rpms you have some sort of problem in the injection, or vaccuum system or something. For the FI first gens, Jim Rothe and David Lane have put together a cookbook ethod of checking everything in the right order that seems to work most of the time for correcting problems. I know your FI is different, but I'd imagine you can find a similiar method of correcting idle problems on a 2nd gen. My car acted similiar at one time and it was a bad O2 sensor.

 

Thanks! My mother-in-law( of all people...) managed to get the car to the dealership today. They'll get back to me tomorrow with what they find.

 

Cosmo guy ended the auction early. Wonder if he sold it locally. Nice car, but needs some resto. And the engine bay needs to be cleaned. But I'd buy it.

 

Without my other car restoration philosophy getting too involved, I would not restore it. I like having very original examples. Sorta like a time machine back into that time. My facorite of the Cobras and Shelbys for example are the ones that have not been restored.

FWIW everyone agrees to disagree on this subject, but this car is fairly nice and very original and since it will never become a driver, I think it should stay the way it is.

 

I say put a v8 in it.. maybe some 24" dubs and some monster sub-woofers.. lcd tv's with p0rn on the playa...

oh nevermind..

dale

 

I'm back home and I talked to the dealership earlier. They said, the mechanic said that the back rotor had no compression, well it was bad enough not to register on the Mazda comp reader. He said(I got this info second hand) that either the rotor is bad(what constitutes a bad rotor??) or there's a bad seal. But they've been a Mazda dealer less than ten years. When I get it home I'll go out and get a comp tester and test it myself and see what I find...... If there's no compression, then I guess I'll have to consider my options. Since the engine has such low miles I'd like to get it fixed or try to fix it myself...... BTW, they offered to fix it for $5300.00......

 

$5300 to replace the engine? What a deal....

Assuming it is bad, I would gither buy a rebuilt from one of the good rebuilders, or I would get a good used engine and put it in. Top quality rebuilds are about $2K or less. You can do it your self for about $800 or so. To decide if you want to do that or not, you should start by getting the video from Atkins.

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...71&cat=0&page=

Watching the video you can decide if you want to try it yourself or not.

 

Yeah I nearly laughed at the price. Who's a good rebuilder? Mr rx-7 tt offered to get me a reman engine or rebuild mine. Anyone have work done by him before? I don't think I can rebuild it myself. I know I can do the easy stuff, brakes, pm work, etc, but I don't think I have the skills to remove, rebuild, re-install an engine.

 

Wonder if Autodemics could give a better price. Taking the motor out, and installing it is a breeze. Just nuts and bolts. Just take the motor to someone reputable for a rebuild, or like Calvin said, Call a reman company, such as Pineapple Racing. Then you could get a nasty SP engine.

Oh BTW, sorry I couldn't make the meet tonight. I was putting Tokico Illuminas and Tein springs on Jerimiah's FD.

 

its aiight we had a small turnout

 

. this is all we had there

 

the guy with the fd if u read this

i lost your contact info sumhow if you could get back to me on here id apreciate it

 

Like I stated earlier the dealership got no compression reading from the back rotor. Someone one the forum suggested it might be due to carbon buildup..... Well while cleaing out and detailing my car(what else can I do with a near perfect interior and a low power engine....) I found a set a spark plugs in the glove compartment. The boxes read that there were 2 7's and 2 9's. However in the boxes were the plugs that were replaced. They were all 9EQ's. I think whoever did the 2nd to last plug replacement installed the wrong plugs. Could this lead to the carbon buildup and hence the bad compression reading?? Thanks!! BTW is it ok to post tech questions here or should I stick to the tech forum??

 

So who's car is who's in those pics.. I know the silver first gen is your car, but I don't recoginze the others. Sorry I didn't make it. I had something I could not get out of that came up at the very last minute.

I think the tech questions here are OK, but you might get better responses from the larger viewing in the tech question. There are only a few second gen people that read this thread (how many of you are there?) so the larger audience of the tech might be helpful.

 

As long as the two 7's were in the leading hole, that's fine. All the 7 means is the heat range, and with NGK, lower number is hotter plug. The trailing is fine for leaving stock heat range, they don't do much anyway. Make sure that the trailing and the leading are hooked up right. The engine WILL run with them reversed, but low power. Try using Amsoil PowerFoam to clear up any carbon deposits, or mist water into the intake if possible. Don't know how that will work with a MAF sensor though.

 

the third gen was a guy from seaford named eric he babies it its all original parts r series the guy with the 1st and 2nd gen i didnt catch his name...

it was funny though cause i was taking pictures of my car then i heard a car rev in the distance and i stood up and they were travelling in a line lol

 

I saw ya this morning going down high street/17 going opposite direction. You didn't wave.. Hmpf.

dale

 

somebody please let me know when,where ive been lookin for 7 owners for a while e-mail me at stewyrx788@hotmail.com or same adress at yahoo.com.also lookin for alot of parts.....

 

I emailed you with some information.

 

Hey Dwayne, this is eric. that sucks we had such a poor turnout but next time maybe it will be better. My email is eric.ancarrow@ferguson.com. The other guy with the FB & FC was named Max. I sent him an email yesterday telling him to keep me posted so hopefully I'll hear from him before the next meet.

 

yo eric, yeah hopefully my bro will be able to make the next meet and so will my prject car that max didnt like lol. i looked at his window and im like greeaaat

oh and btw http://rx7.meetup.com/55/

 

Counting down the days until Wacky Wensday begins

See ya later