Check your battery. Make sure all the terminals etc are clean and tight.

 

Call Ray Crowe at malloy mazda, a new ignition switch was under $100 if I remember correctly, and its a 30 min job to swap out.

 

Does it even crank? Might wanna check your starter....

 

The starter body is its ground.
The 5/16th lug on the solenoid that does not already have a wire connected to it is for a smallish gauge number wire to battery +
The small tab is for a .250" female blade connector and simply needs a 12v+ ; this tab engages the solenoid and allows current to flow into the armature

Realistically you'll only need to jump the small tab. Also, push starting should not do any noticeable damage to your clutch/flywheel (you're going too slow) unless it's already fucked.

 

im pretty sure its the ignition switch even though it doesnt crank because i cant ven turn the key all the way back...and thanks man ima try that. also i got in my car today and the battery was mysteriously weak and would die when i turned the ignition switch to the crank position. also it wouldnt charge for **** when i would "jump" it with my friends gti. idk wasup with this car

 

Short answer: Somebody hasn't been paying her enough attention and she's starting to get bitchy. Only way to solve it is to buy her new things and spend time with her.

 

lol i was thing that but im poor right now 😔 whats the long answer?

 

Stop living in self pity and saying the you're "poor" and you can't afford anything. Cut ties with people that bring you down.
Stop buying lottery tickets, weed, and beer if you do and put the money into getting yourself reliable transportation.
Advocate for yourself, get a job in something other than retail, save some money and buy a better car.
You have to suck it up and deal with ****, but you'll come out on top!

 

So...

Brake pedal is stiff after the car sits overnight. Simple booster check has it depressing on its own when pressing on it during engine startup. Brake performance is normal while running.

Booster good, check valve leaking?

 

lmao ur funny i know what yo do with my life, no money cause no job cause i was getting bs'd, i dont spend money on that...i bought an rx7 for a reason and have 2 other cara...i really dont want anything else unless i can find a starlet...also if people werent so ******* cheap i'd have money from my other car parts. thanks for helping with nothing

 

Well, if you don't want to spend any money you have two options: one is a lot of labor/effort that only helps the car work right for a little longer and it will eventually need a new ignition switch anyway. That way is to remove the ignition switch, disassemble it, clean any electrical contacts, fab any parts that are missing/worn out of some spare copper/brass sheet and reassemble with conductive grease in choice locations. Not worth it IMO, I've done it before and it has worked for a little while, but soon it goes down again and by then you are so fed up with it you buy a new one anyway. The other option ruins the resale value of the car and can lessen the security depending on how you do it. That options is to bypass the ignition switch completely and wire everything with toggle switches and relays. Make sure you use relays on high current wires. You don't want to burn the car down because you didn't want to take the time to figure out your wiring correctly.

Oh and don't disregard Ian (Molotovman) he's a good guy, and a real hard worker. I agree with his stance, what he said is good advice for anyone whether you feel it pertains to yourself or not. Also, he knows a ****-ton about FCs and probably has a replacement ignition switch in his shed or on a parts car somewhere, and now I doubt he'd offer it to you now for anything less then full new price. Really what I'm getting at is be careful who you insult when you are asking for help. A bad attitude (and poor typing skills) tends to get people to just ignore you.



I'm not sure what you meant by pedal is "stiff," compared to what? How it feels when it is running?

If yes, it does sounds like a bad check valve. If normally the pedal was still "power" when you turned off the motor (for a couple of pumps anyway) there was residual vacuum that was left in the booster that still let the pedal work and feel "soft". This is normal operation. If what you are describing is that this is no longer the case (it stiffens up immediately with the motor off) then you are most likely leaking air back into the booster past the check valve that usually only allows air to be pulled out. There is an easy way to test it if you have the tools, but I'd just replace it since they are only a couple bucks.

 

i didnt insult anyone but thanks for the reply...truthfully i only come on here when i have problems cause im tired of people being rude on forums...cause 99% of the time nobody will do it to your face. and as my poor typing skills, i type the fastest way possible cause im not writing an essay

 

True you didn't directly insult him, but saying "thanks for nothing" is not very endearing and I would take it as an insult if you said it to me when I was trying to be helpful. Whatever though it's no big deal, I don't want to argue over semantics.

And, you might feel like people are being pedantic when they comment on your typing/grammar/etc. But, the harder it is to read/comprehend what you are trying to write the less likely they are to read and respond to it. I can appreciate not wanting to take any more time then necessary to write a post, but I don't want to take any more time than is necessary to read it either. So if it is tough, I just wont.

Anyway, good luck with the car. If you cant get a new ignition switch, try to find a used replacement. Sometimes these parts are used over a couple platforms so you might be able to find one in a junkyard even if it isn't from a FC. The replacement should last long enough for you to save up for a new one.

 

true...thanks i got the car started today. i think the terminals were just dirty. but still gotta push start it, cause i didn't have enough time to wire up a wire to jump to the starter.

 

Due to the alternator, the car will still be able to run even if the battery is dead so push starting it doesn't necessarily mean that your battery is fine. But, here's hoping that it was just the terminals

 

Thanks for the kind words, Rocky!
I have good news! If things work out I'll be picking up another FC this weekend so I'll be able to make the cruises and GTG's from here on out!

 

i have to push start it cause my ignition is fucked up...but the battery is holding a charge so i'm pretty sure the battery terminals were just dirty since it would die then all the lights would slowly come on and get brighter

 

I'm slowly losing my mind... I've got just a couple days over 2 months before I ship out and I need my fc running by then :/ all I need is a fuel pump and some help and expertise.

 

I've got a brand new walbro 255 installed on the OE S4 fuel delivery assembly to drop in your tank and plug in. You'll need to buy an FPR to go with it. $50

Is anyone interested in a Brand new Microtech LT-10S with the X4 box and new unterminated harness? It has a base tune for an S5 T2 preloaded.

 

**** i cant find the lil tab ln the starter. there is like 0 room under there

 

yo this is how i have jt wired and it just spins tr starter but no engaging

 

Anybody local have a good condition s5 tank? The one I picked up turned out to be s4... apparently there is only around a 3/4" difference in their height and it's difficult to tell with them just sitting their and without trying to put an s5 fuel pump/sender assembly in.

Those looking for fuel pumps should check out walboro 400lph. It's a nice pump with good tech for a damn good price.

Are you trying to use that wire for +12v draw or for +12v signal to the starter?

IIRC the schematic, even with a fucked lock&cylinder you should just need +12v signal which is the blk/red wire. If unhook that wire you'll see the tab I think I mentioned previously. +12v that tab, and it should work.

If it does not, then you'll need +12v high current wire (4 gauge should do) from battery +12v to the other 5/16th lug (as in, NOT the one you currently have the blue wire on) and a +12v signal to the tab I have mentioned.

 

anyway to get a pic for me? i didnt what nut you were talkin bout cause its really tight under there. thanks for helping though

 

Left is +12v in
Top is "tab" or +12v signal (even though I say signal it does draw an appreciable amount of current)
right - in general there is no reason to touch this stud.

The left is hidden by the protective rubber boot. IIRC if you can get under your car this shouldn't be a problem. Good luck.

 

Does Ray Crowe/Malloy have anyone worthwhile that does maintenance, or do they only source parts for fair prices?