DC Area thread - The District, NoVa, Maryland
cool beans i used to go to the quazi meet down there but they shut it down but i go to the monday night meets every monday in springfield and the manassas 28 meet sometimes
i'm actually looking for parts...i will pm you
i'm actually looking for parts...i will pm you
There are a few. There's one in Bristow that I see every now and then. About 3 weeks ago I saw a matte black one with a hood cutout and vintage plates. Not sure what he was running under the hood, but I couldn't keep up with him in my SUV lol
well there'd be one more running around if i could get this damned thing to start!
just did fresh rebuild on my 87 n/a and it sometimes acts like its going to catch and turn over but never does. the gas coming out on the spark plugs smelled bad so i swapped my fuel filter and pumped gas out of the line until it smelled normal, but then we noticed i need to swap about 3ft of hardline because it rusted out right at the back end.
my normal procedure has been to remove the plugs and the fuse and crank it a few times to blow the **** out of the engine and either a) put the plugs back in, crank it dry a few times then put the fuse back in and crank with fuel or b) put in about a 1/4 cup of 5w30 straight into the spark plug holes, then put the plugs in, crank it dry for 10 seconds, put the fuse back and crank it.
i haven't tried using ATF, and I don't have tools (or knowledge) for a compression test.
is it pretty normal to just have to keep unflooding a freshly rebuilt engine until it finally decides to fire?
anyone want to come make this thing work for money/beer? or at least show me how the hell to compression test it?
all i need it to do is run for like..2 seconds just for proof of concept, then i can start replacing parts and getting it back to roadworthy.
i live in woodbridge but its right off rt1 so not super far from town.
gregory.alan.anderson@gmail.com if you're game!
just did fresh rebuild on my 87 n/a and it sometimes acts like its going to catch and turn over but never does. the gas coming out on the spark plugs smelled bad so i swapped my fuel filter and pumped gas out of the line until it smelled normal, but then we noticed i need to swap about 3ft of hardline because it rusted out right at the back end.
my normal procedure has been to remove the plugs and the fuse and crank it a few times to blow the **** out of the engine and either a) put the plugs back in, crank it dry a few times then put the fuse back in and crank with fuel or b) put in about a 1/4 cup of 5w30 straight into the spark plug holes, then put the plugs in, crank it dry for 10 seconds, put the fuse back and crank it.
i haven't tried using ATF, and I don't have tools (or knowledge) for a compression test.
is it pretty normal to just have to keep unflooding a freshly rebuilt engine until it finally decides to fire?
anyone want to come make this thing work for money/beer? or at least show me how the hell to compression test it?
all i need it to do is run for like..2 seconds just for proof of concept, then i can start replacing parts and getting it back to roadworthy.
i live in woodbridge but its right off rt1 so not super far from town.
gregory.alan.anderson@gmail.com if you're game!
I might be able to make it over there for a little while one day to try to help. I had a similar time getting my rebuild to start. Did you try some carb cleaner or starting fluid in the intake?
I'm close, might be able to help you out some day soon.
ok thanks guys, i'm going to replace this fuel line tomorrow and grab some starting fluid and see if i can't get it to light off finally.
if it still won't go i'll let you know, we just bought half of a grass fed scottish highland cow and it makes some damned fine burgers.
if it still won't go i'll let you know, we just bought half of a grass fed scottish highland cow and it makes some damned fine burgers.
well the starting fluid worked great, we can get it to run for a few seconds at a time. judging by the looks of my fuel injectors they are jacked to hell so i've ordered replacements. got a flat spot on my starter too so ordered a new one as well...
but once i got it to fire off a few times with starting fluid i cleaned the plugs and tried again without and it fired right up like it meant it. revved up like it was cold starting (like 2k rpm~ish) then slowly came back down till it died. probably has some timing issues as well, but we'll work those out once the new injectors go in...
thanks for the help guys
but once i got it to fire off a few times with starting fluid i cleaned the plugs and tried again without and it fired right up like it meant it. revved up like it was cold starting (like 2k rpm~ish) then slowly came back down till it died. probably has some timing issues as well, but we'll work those out once the new injectors go in...
thanks for the help guys
Glad it worked out man. Make sure to get new grommets, insulators and o-rings for your injectors and be sure you don't have any vac leaks. If you don't know yet, you're lucky to live in Woodbridge. Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda gives the BEST prices on RX-7 parts. If he can't beat one he will match it. 703-490-8263 is the parts direct number.
Glad it worked out man. Make sure to get new grommets, insulators and o-rings for your injectors and be sure you don't have any vac leaks. If you don't know yet, you're lucky to live in Woodbridge. Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda gives the BEST prices on RX-7 parts. If he can't beat one he will match it. 703-490-8263 is the parts direct number.
i noticed if i dont rev the car out atleast a couple times a day the car idles like ****...is this normal or is it cause i might have a vacuum leak? it idles fine after i take it to redline a couple times but then a day or 2 later even a couple hours the idle will start surging from 1 - 1.5k rpm
well there'd be one more running around if i could get this damned thing to start!
just did fresh rebuild on my 87 n/a and it sometimes acts like its going to catch and turn over but never does. the gas coming out on the spark plugs smelled bad so i swapped my fuel filter and pumped gas out of the line until it smelled normal, but then we noticed i need to swap about 3ft of hardline because it rusted out right at the back end.
my normal procedure has been to remove the plugs and the fuse and crank it a few times to blow the **** out of the engine and either a) put the plugs back in, crank it dry a few times then put the fuse back in and crank with fuel or b) put in about a 1/4 cup of 5w30 straight into the spark plug holes, then put the plugs in, crank it dry for 10 seconds, put the fuse back and crank it.
i haven't tried using ATF, and I don't have tools (or knowledge) for a compression test.
is it pretty normal to just have to keep unflooding a freshly rebuilt engine until it finally decides to fire?
anyone want to come make this thing work for money/beer? or at least show me how the hell to compression test it?
all i need it to do is run for like..2 seconds just for proof of concept, then i can start replacing parts and getting it back to roadworthy.
i live in woodbridge but its right off rt1 so not super far from town.
gregory.alan.anderson@gmail.com if you're game!
just did fresh rebuild on my 87 n/a and it sometimes acts like its going to catch and turn over but never does. the gas coming out on the spark plugs smelled bad so i swapped my fuel filter and pumped gas out of the line until it smelled normal, but then we noticed i need to swap about 3ft of hardline because it rusted out right at the back end.
my normal procedure has been to remove the plugs and the fuse and crank it a few times to blow the **** out of the engine and either a) put the plugs back in, crank it dry a few times then put the fuse back in and crank with fuel or b) put in about a 1/4 cup of 5w30 straight into the spark plug holes, then put the plugs in, crank it dry for 10 seconds, put the fuse back and crank it.
i haven't tried using ATF, and I don't have tools (or knowledge) for a compression test.
is it pretty normal to just have to keep unflooding a freshly rebuilt engine until it finally decides to fire?
anyone want to come make this thing work for money/beer? or at least show me how the hell to compression test it?
all i need it to do is run for like..2 seconds just for proof of concept, then i can start replacing parts and getting it back to roadworthy.
i live in woodbridge but its right off rt1 so not super far from town.
gregory.alan.anderson@gmail.com if you're game!

Either way I would recommend draining the whole tank of fuel, fixing the line, and trying again.
If the car fires off carb cleaner but won't stay running after it has burned off you have some sort of fuel issue. My guess would be clogged injectors at this point.
i noticed if i dont rev the car out atleast a couple times a day the car idles like ****...is this normal or is it cause i might have a vacuum leak? it idles fine after i take it to redline a couple times but then a day or 2 later even a couple hours the idle will start surging from 1 - 1.5k rpm
what do u think it could be? i've searched for a couple days and cant find ****...only thing i can think of is the tps is f'd up or the idle air control valve is dirty but idk where the iacv is on this car smh
Properly bleed the cooling system. It sounds like you have air that is getting up into the coolant lines for the TB.






