I wish my odometer worked consistently to give me that type of information! So, I finally completed my fan swap project and put it back together this past weekend. Quite proud of myself actually, after a decade of not doing much work on the car. It only took 3-4 months of planning (aka staring, thinking, cursing, and procrastinating) and 2 months of actual "work", one part or area at a time. Didn't spill too much antifreeze when removing the big hose before pulling out the fan shroud - probably spilled more when re-installing it actually, not expecting any MORE to come gushing out. I had made wiring harnesses so I didn't have to cut any original parts. Put in all back together and the fans are spinning! Quite ferociously actually, being newer RX-8 fans.

I fired it up yesterday for the first time since June and brought it up to temperature. So far, no leaks from that big hose to radiator interface. However, I do smell something burning. Hopefully, it's not oil? It smells almost electrical, so maybe it's from the new fan motors warming up and working for the first time. It also smells like leaves so could it be from all the leaves that blew up into my car from the landscaping crew? No fires though. I really hope I didn't overheat the car when one of the fans seized in June. I will be firing it up again this weekend and will eventually take it out for some short jaunts. Heck, if it holds up, I might be able to take it out for a meet. Maybe in a couple of weeks? Well, I hope every one is well.

Oh, while working on the car, three neighbors told me I had the best looking car in the neighborhood. And the UPS driver was super excited to see someone working on the car and that it will run again soon. He knew of two other FD's in my area that just sit there, collecting dust.

 

Dang....this thread is on life support. Anyone still around?

My FD died last night. Luckily, it's just the battery. It needed a new battery, I forgot about it because it was running fairly well and then I added a dashcam that really killed it. Broke down on a really bad part of the Prince William Parkway with no shoulder too, right between an off-ramp and the on-ramp to 95 south. It was sketchy until VDOT randomly showed up. Really thought a car trying to merge was going to plow it while I watched on the side because it's dark and the hazards were barely flashing. Time to buy some LED emergency road flares!

The tow truck driver jumped the car and had me drive up the flat bed - with blinding lights in my face! When I stopped early because I didn't want to smash the back of the cabin, he looked incredulous. So I had to move forward another 2 feet - while on a 30-degree incline with blinding lights in my face, and not too much or I'd hit the cabin. lol Even the cop who had stopped laughed that he would make me do that and said he himself would have stalled numerous times. Anyways, it made it back safely. But it was touch and go with a lot of popping, stalling, backfiring, and driving with no headlights down an off-ramp for about 15 minutes! It could have been a lot worse. I was in stop-and-go traffic only 10 minutes before it started fizzing out.

Anything I need to worry about after I get a new battery? Flooded, fouled spark plugs maybe?

How about a Fall Cruise? Anyone? I need a Spelunker's burger....

 

Hey Zoolander,

I haven't been on the forums as much lately, my rx7 has been running well . I wouldn't assume it was the battery. If the car started and drove out of the garage then died mid drive it wouldn't lead to a battery issue. I would think its an alternator charge issue/connectivity problem. The alt should be able to keep the car happy once running unless your battery connections are not fully secured. Do you have a voltage readout?

Am 100% down for a fall cruise or to assist in troubleshooting the issue. PM me, im located out in Haymarket but come in to Falls Church often.

 

Sorry to hear that, but a car dying while driving sounds more of an Alternator problem and not Battery. Battery only plays a part if you can't start the car, but running a car is an alternator's job. Any low or dead battery can at least maintain a charge and supply steady electrical current to the car... I would make sure you get over 13.5 volts when car is running to make sure it's working. With healthy battery being 12.6 or so volts after sitting for a bit with the engine not running!

 

Thanks for the quick responses, Michael and Vlad. I'll put in a new battery, as it was way overdue, and will check the alternator!

Yup, my FD had been running great up also, until Monday that is, which also means I haven't been on here much either. Maybe everyone's RX-7 is running great these days? Once I get it back fully operational, let's see if we can at least get a small group together for some RX-7 camaraderie as it's way overdue.

Hey Vlad, a long long time ago, you spoke to me about a rear diffuser. I forget if you had one to sell or you were asking about a group buy. Still got one to sell? Didn't look like it from your inventory of pics (holy crap, you have a lot of parts!).

-Duc

 

I'm still alive, following to see if anything comes together.

Did you order an alternator yet Duc?

 

The new battery is measuring around 12V, as is the alternator. But it does dip down when I turn on the fans and power up the dashcam, to about 11 - and it fluctuates quite a bit too. And a burnt electrical smell seems to be emanating from it. Will check it again tomorrow.

About to email Ray now. I just re-did the fans earlier this year too, so had everything out. Uggghh. I guess I need the practice. Should I order anything else along with the alternator? Maybe a new belt?

This is what I get for getting the car detailed and ready for some cool weather driving just 2 weeks ago. Such as owning an FD.

Thanks for the assist fellas!

 

Zoolander,

Not sure why this is still a question. The alternator should put voltage well above 13.5, if not its dead. Get a DC power alternator and you'll never have to worry about it again. That's what I did. 14.7 volts all day hot or cold.

 

You know, wishful thinking. Denial. Lack of electrical knowledge.

You mean this thing?

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/products/...md_rx7~le_1-3l

 

Yes, you might as well get a belt while you're at it.

 

@Zoolander Yes that's the one. Pricey but worth it. I used to go through parts shop alternators every few months but I've had this one for a few years now and no issues to report.

 

RPM in all its various names has moved to West Virginia, probably due to the summons on the door...

 

There anyone local capable of repairing the cassette tape player on a gxl?

 

Done and done! Installed and ready for some cruising. Now I need a sunroof seal, which is on order. And my Mazda mechanic friend was telling me the FD key cylinders are failing and they don't make them anymore. And right afterwards, my key cylinder is failing! It barely clicks to the left or right now. Hopefully, there will be an aftermarket fix or we'll all have to unlock it from the passenger side.

Anyone in the market for LED headlights and want to save $49, if we group buy three?
https://pettitracing.com/products/pe...adlight-kit-fd

If the car is running in the Fall, let's do a cruise. I need a burger from Spelunker's.

Hope all is well with everyone.

Duc

 

You can service the lock yourself, the plastic flap probably broke and fell back into the cylinder which is keeping the key from operating properly. Remove the handle, remove the lock cylinder, tap off the cap, and clean the keyway. Be careful not to lose springs or mix up orientation of the pins.

On the headlights, those are ripoffs. You can buy those housings for about $150 on eBay and get similar bulbs for $40-60. With that said, I do recommend a lighting upgrade. I made my own projector HID's using those SONAR housings but machining was required along with some minor wiring. Check out the DIY HID thread in the 3rd gen section and see if it's something you're willing to take on.

 

The plastic flap fell off many years ago and I've had to go in there once already, after the cylinder completely locked up. Will get in there again and take a look around.

Yeah, two candles are brighter than my headlights so definitely in need of a lighting upgrade. I can DIY myself for around $210 and probably many hours, since the job does look to be above my paygrade, or pay double for a remove-and-replace kit from Pettit? I will have to ponder.....

 

All the Pettit kit is, is a set of RHD housings with drop in LED bulbs. There is nothing special about them and honestly, they are a ripoff at that price point. The labor involved in what they are doing is just removing a rubber boot, installing a pair of H4 LED bulbs, and putting the rubber boot back on. The reflector pattern is wrong for US road as well. I truly believe you will be disappointed.

You’re better off buying something from origin werks, Terlizzi auto concepts, or Rx lights. Terlizzi and RX lights have delivery issue though so if you buy from them be sure to chargeback if you done receive merchandise before the period is up.

PM me your cell number and I’ll text pics of stock vs h4 led and h4 led vs HID projector. You’ll be a believer in the projectors after you see pics.

 

My key cylinder is bad and I've been going through the passenger side for years Be cool if there was a fix for it. I looked into installing keyless entry and there's a good thread on it but it's pretty spendy if you use official Mazda parts from a RHD car and modify them. The flap in my key lock is still there (and the light even works still!) but I have to turn the key really hard to get it to unlock which deforms the key and eventually causes it to snap. I was hoping there might be some way to adjust the metal rod that connects the cylinder to the door lock but I haven't looked into it.

 

Same issue for years here to with the lock cylinder. Broken at least 2 keys and 3rd is cracked so I have 4th for next time I'm at a dealership. IIRC spraying in some WD40 worked the best but lasted the shortest. I tried lithium, dry lubricant, 3 in 1, etc. Almost went the door popper route but decided to spend my money elsewhere and have garage now so rarely need to lock it.

Agree with Matt on the headlights, RHD with bright bulbs is not really what you want. Been wanting to do custom lights for years so I've done a lot of leg work. When that fd caught fire on the way to the cruise it quieted down my drive to mess with the electrical system but with the new projectors out I may pick it back up. I'll let you guys know if I do anything, for now I just try not to drive too much at night.

 

Speaking of broken lock cylinders, I secured a few lock actuator assemblies for the LHD manual internals to be used with a keyless entry or security systems for the cars. Have it installed in mine and it's great. If interested send me a PM price is $250/ per unit

 

Vlad, Matt, you guys still doing track days? One of my friends at work has been motivating me to get a car together and give it a shot. Just wondering if anyone else is still getting out there

 

I wish, I've been working on clients cars and neglecting my own 😭

 

I'm sure Justin will be all in for a track day.

 

So these are OEM LHD actuators? Install that + any aftermarket keyless entry system and that's it?

The car should be more or less track day ready but I haven't done one in years.

 

Are there any paint/body shops in the area that you guys recommend? I've been thinking it's probably time to get all the bruises sorted and a full repaint since I'm not taking the car to the track anymore.