Simple gain suggestions for n/a owners-
01-05-08, 05:45 PM
#51
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This does not mean that The engine makes more hp.
Last edited by RotaMan99; 01-05-08 at 05:51 PM.
01-05-08, 05:50 PM
#52
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I don't think anyone is saying that a lighter flywheel makes more power. What they're saying is that the engine can get more of that power to the wheels if it has to spin less weight. I believe a RWD car loses about 15% of its power from the engine to the wheels. For example, an S5 NA would make 160hp, but only about 135 would get to the wheels because the engine has to spin the weight of the drivetrain. When you lighten up the flywheel, you remove the weight the engine has to spin, and therefore that 15% loss was just reduced to (just throwing a number out there) 11%. So instead of having 135 at the wheels, you have 142 at the wheels even though the engine is still making the original 160.
01-05-08, 06:02 PM
#53
Bongolio
you must be getting confused with what im saying. I never said the engine HP increases. Your freeing up engine HP (not increasing engine hp) that has been taken up from the flywheel and which with a lightweight flywheel more power is transfered to the wheels which will allow you to accelerate faster. How can you accelerate faster without extra power to the wheels during the time acceleration time.
But yes i understand what your saying...If your having a hard time understanding why there would not be a rwhp increase with a lightweight flywheel maybe someone else can chim in and shed some different light.
01-05-08, 06:26 PM
#54
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All I know is that I made 149 rwhp with a Fidanza 8 lb. flywheel as my only "functional" mod. The reason I say that is because I just had my motor rebuilt and street ported, but it has been said that a port does absolutely nothing if you have a stock exhaust... which I have (not including a crappy catback the PO put on).
RotaMan99: lightening up the rest of the car will let you accelerate faster without changing the wheel hp.
A stock flywheel weighs what? ~24lbs? That's equivalent to about three gallons of milk. You can't feel a difference if you were driving with three gallons as opposed to one (or none, just trying to prove a point). However, if you installed a 12 lb flywheel/counterweight combo, you will notice difference because even though it's not a lot of weight, that is more power getting to the ground.
RotaMan99: lightening up the rest of the car will let you accelerate faster without changing the wheel hp.
A stock flywheel weighs what? ~24lbs? That's equivalent to about three gallons of milk. You can't feel a difference if you were driving with three gallons as opposed to one (or none, just trying to prove a point). However, if you installed a 12 lb flywheel/counterweight combo, you will notice difference because even though it's not a lot of weight, that is more power getting to the ground.
01-05-08, 06:34 PM
#55
Bongolio
All I know is that I made 149 rwhp with a Fidanza 8 lb. flywheel as my only "functional" mod. The reason I say that is because I just had my motor rebuilt and street ported, but it has been said that a port does absolutely nothing if you have a stock exhaust... which I have (not including a crappy catback the PO put on).
RotaMan99: lightening up the rest of the car will let you accelerate faster without changing the wheel hp.
A stock flywheel weighs what? ~24lbs? That's equivalent to about three gallons of milk. You can't feel a difference if you were driving with three gallons as opposed to one (or none, just trying to prove a point). However, if you installed a 12 lb flywheel/counterweight combo, you will notice difference because even though it's not a lot of weight, that is more power getting to the ground.
RotaMan99: lightening up the rest of the car will let you accelerate faster without changing the wheel hp.
A stock flywheel weighs what? ~24lbs? That's equivalent to about three gallons of milk. You can't feel a difference if you were driving with three gallons as opposed to one (or none, just trying to prove a point). However, if you installed a 12 lb flywheel/counterweight combo, you will notice difference because even though it's not a lot of weight, that is more power getting to the ground.
And 149 rwhp on a fresh street ported rebuild is really the norm..Thats nice what car is it?
01-05-08, 08:21 PM
#56
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Figured I would make a list of things I have found that will increase horsepower for the n/a guys. I'm sure most already know these, and you guys can add onto it, this is just a start.
These are the gains I saw on our dyna-pack
1) Clutch fan removal, electric fan install. Hp gain of 8-12 rwhp.
2) (distributer guys only) upgrading to FC coils, and a MSD 6al for leading. 15 rwhp gain
3) Going to full synthetic in transmission, rear end. Havent re-verified gain, but est 2-4rwhp.
4) underdrive pulley kit. 5 rwhp (this was on a pretty small factory set already)
5) Switching to green air filter, with cold air source 4 rwhp gain over the k+N
6) (distributer guys only) Remove one spring off the weights, and cut the slots in trailing vaccum pot larger, to close up the trailing split to 4-5 degrees. 3-4rwhp in the center of powerband, 2-3rwhp gain at peak.
These are the gains I saw on our dyna-pack
1) Clutch fan removal, electric fan install. Hp gain of 8-12 rwhp.
2) (distributer guys only) upgrading to FC coils, and a MSD 6al for leading. 15 rwhp gain
3) Going to full synthetic in transmission, rear end. Havent re-verified gain, but est 2-4rwhp.
4) underdrive pulley kit. 5 rwhp (this was on a pretty small factory set already)
5) Switching to green air filter, with cold air source 4 rwhp gain over the k+N
6) (distributer guys only) Remove one spring off the weights, and cut the slots in trailing vaccum pot larger, to close up the trailing split to 4-5 degrees. 3-4rwhp in the center of powerband, 2-3rwhp gain at peak.
definatly possible power gains, although on a hot day the fan clutch can rob even more hp!
i would like to add, remove the intake manifold, block the egr port(preventing hot exhaust gasses from heating up the intake) , and block the coolant passages with freeze plugs also to prevent heating up the intake... big power gains there, anytime you can get a cool intake charge into the motor its a good thing
01-05-08, 08:26 PM
#57
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Its been said, but lets make this clear.
A lightweight flywheel will not create horsepower. It does nothing to improve breathing or improve ignition within the engine. So it makes no horsepower.
What it does do is remove weight between the engine and the wheels. that rotational weight takes energy to move. Besides heat and friction part of the generic '15%' loss in power between the engine and the wheels is the power used to spin the flywheel, clutch, gears, driveshaft, rear end internals, half shafts, and wheels/tires. If you lighten any of those components then it requires less energy to spin them up to speed. This translates into less hp being used just to move the wheels. So a light flywheel NETS horsepower. (Net is the Difference after gross hp and the energy needed to transmit said hp to the rear wheels)
So you DO gain hp at the rear wheels. You do NOT gain crank hp. It is easier for the engine to spin up, and a little bit more energy is devoted to moving the weight of the vehicle/driver. That energy is the increase in RWHP. This is the same reason why a carbon fiber or aluminum driveshaft can increase RWHP.
Is that clear to everyone?
BC
A lightweight flywheel will not create horsepower. It does nothing to improve breathing or improve ignition within the engine. So it makes no horsepower.
What it does do is remove weight between the engine and the wheels. that rotational weight takes energy to move. Besides heat and friction part of the generic '15%' loss in power between the engine and the wheels is the power used to spin the flywheel, clutch, gears, driveshaft, rear end internals, half shafts, and wheels/tires. If you lighten any of those components then it requires less energy to spin them up to speed. This translates into less hp being used just to move the wheels. So a light flywheel NETS horsepower. (Net is the Difference after gross hp and the energy needed to transmit said hp to the rear wheels)
So you DO gain hp at the rear wheels. You do NOT gain crank hp. It is easier for the engine to spin up, and a little bit more energy is devoted to moving the weight of the vehicle/driver. That energy is the increase in RWHP. This is the same reason why a carbon fiber or aluminum driveshaft can increase RWHP.
Is that clear to everyone?
BC
01-05-08, 08:39 PM
#58
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RotaMan99: lightening up the rest of the car will let you accelerate faster without changing the wheel hp.
A stock flywheel weighs what? ~24lbs? That's equivalent to about three gallons of milk. You can't feel a difference if you were driving with three gallons as opposed to one (or none, just trying to prove a point).
A stock flywheel weighs what? ~24lbs? That's equivalent to about three gallons of milk. You can't feel a difference if you were driving with three gallons as opposed to one (or none, just trying to prove a point).
However, if you installed a 12 lb flywheel/counterweight combo, you will notice difference because even though it's not a lot of weight, that is more power getting to the ground.
So you DO gain hp at the rear wheels. You do NOT gain crank hp. It is easier for the engine to spin up, and a little bit more energy is devoted to moving the weight of the vehicle/driver. That energy is the increase in RWHP. This is the same reason why a carbon fiber or aluminum driveshaft can increase RWHP.
Is that clear to everyone?
01-06-08, 01:28 AM
#59
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rotorman85: They say that the only thing a street port does on a stock exhaust is hurt low-end torque, so I don't know how normal it is. Everyone (including me) was inpressed with the numbers, and shocked when they found out it was stock (besides the port and flywheel). I made a thread before the dyno day asking what people thought I would dyno. Some said 120 rwhp, others said no more than 140, and there were a few guesses in between. Here's a link to all of my dyno/quarter mile info on it: https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/my-1989-na-dyno-quarter-mile-info-702674/
RotaMan99: I was only addressing you on my statement about weight reduction of the whole car. The rest was a seperate thought. Sorry if that was confusing... I was agreeing with you on everything else.
RotaMan99: I was only addressing you on my statement about weight reduction of the whole car. The rest was a seperate thought. Sorry if that was confusing... I was agreeing with you on everything else.
01-06-08, 12:27 PM
#61
Bongolio
rotorman85: They say that the only thing a street port does on a stock exhaust is hurt low-end torque, so I don't know how normal it is. Everyone (including me) was inpressed with the numbers, and shocked when they found out it was stock (besides the port and flywheel). I made a thread before the dyno day asking what people thought I would dyno. Some said 120 rwhp, others said no more than 140, and there were a few guesses in between. Here's a link to all of my dyno/quarter mile info on it: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=702674
RotaMan99: I was only addressing you on my statement about weight reduction of the whole car. The rest was a seperate thought. Sorry if that was confusing... I was agreeing with you on everything else.
RotaMan99: I was only addressing you on my statement about weight reduction of the whole car. The rest was a seperate thought. Sorry if that was confusing... I was agreeing with you on everything else.
Now if you go say you have a 12a im going to feel stupid!
And to everyone else sorry if i can off like an *** or something..I guess the whole time we where kinda saying the same thing...lol I just like having good debates!
Have a good weekend everyone and thanks for the help!!
01-06-08, 01:01 PM
#62
I have a little bit of a different take on what was said. Just to add insult to injury. A engine is a power unit, and in order for it to be functional in producing power certain things must be driven off of it. To say that changing to a lightweight flywheel is not increasing power, to me that isnt really true. Sure, the rotors are putting the same force on the crank, so the power internally is the same. Technically we could remove the mechanical oil pump, drive accessories and put it on life support, and it will produce more power to the crank. Still the rotors are at the same force, but I dont see how you can say its not making more power. Even changing the springs to very soft ones inside the engine could free up friction, and make a little more power to the crank. Yet this is not making more HP? None of us can rate a engine by its actual internal hp, everything robs power from this number. EVERYTHING. Pumping losses, heat, friction, accessories, weight, and the list goes on and on. So if it dyno's more power to the crank, I say the engine unit made more power, because less power was wasted.
01-06-08, 02:49 PM
#63
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rotorman85: Sorry, I should have said that it was an S5 NA. If you check out that thread I posted you will get a few more details, and also some pictures and videos.
GtoRx7: Do you have more info on those dynos you posted? Like which dynos had which methods? And is that your rwhp or bhp?
GtoRx7: Do you have more info on those dynos you posted? Like which dynos had which methods? And is that your rwhp or bhp?
01-06-08, 02:50 PM
#64
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its not making more power because it doesnt improve or increase breathing into the combustion process, so its not PRODUCING more power. It increases power, but its not producing more power.
BC
BC
01-06-08, 06:44 PM
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Figured I would make a list of things I have found that will increase horsepower for the n/a guys. I'm sure most already know these, and you guys can add onto it, this is just a start.
These are the gains I saw on our dyna-pack
1) Clutch fan removal, electric fan install. Hp gain of 8-12 rwhp.
2) (distributer guys only) upgrading to FC coils, and a MSD 6al for leading. 15 rwhp gain
3) Going to full synthetic in transmission, rear end. Havent re-verified gain, but est 2-4rwhp.
4) underdrive pulley kit. 5 rwhp (this was on a pretty small factory set already)
5) Switching to green air filter, with cold air source 4 rwhp gain over the k+N
6) (distributer guys only) Remove one spring off the weights, and cut the slots in trailing vaccum pot larger, to close up the trailing split to 4-5 degrees. 3-4rwhp in the center of powerband, 2-3rwhp gain at peak.
These are the gains I saw on our dyna-pack
1) Clutch fan removal, electric fan install. Hp gain of 8-12 rwhp.
2) (distributer guys only) upgrading to FC coils, and a MSD 6al for leading. 15 rwhp gain
3) Going to full synthetic in transmission, rear end. Havent re-verified gain, but est 2-4rwhp.
4) underdrive pulley kit. 5 rwhp (this was on a pretty small factory set already)
5) Switching to green air filter, with cold air source 4 rwhp gain over the k+N
6) (distributer guys only) Remove one spring off the weights, and cut the slots in trailing vaccum pot larger, to close up the trailing split to 4-5 degrees. 3-4rwhp in the center of powerband, 2-3rwhp gain at peak.
01-06-08, 09:07 PM
#66
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
01-06-08, 09:28 PM
#67
rotorman85: Sorry, I should have said that it was an S5 NA. If you check out that thread I posted you will get a few more details, and also some pictures and videos.
GtoRx7: Do you have more info on those dynos you posted? Like which dynos had which methods? And is that your rwhp or bhp?
GtoRx7: Do you have more info on those dynos you posted? Like which dynos had which methods? And is that your rwhp or bhp?
I just want to thank you nBOOSTe for bringing so much to the conversation........
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
01-06-08, 09:59 PM
#68
Bongolio
I have a little bit of a different take on what was said. Just to add insult to injury. A engine is a power unit, and in order for it to be functional in producing power certain things must be driven off of it. To say that changing to a lightweight flywheel is not increasing power, to me that isnt really true. Sure, the rotors are putting the same force on the crank, so the power internally is the same. Technically we could remove the mechanical oil pump, drive accessories and put it on life support, and it will produce more power to the crank. Still the rotors are at the same force, but I dont see how you can say its not making more power. Even changing the springs to very soft ones inside the engine could free up friction, and make a little more power to the crank. Yet this is not making more HP? None of us can rate a engine by its actual internal hp, everything robs power from this number. EVERYTHING. Pumping losses, heat, friction, accessories, weight, and the list goes on and on. So if it dyno's more power to the crank, I say the engine unit made more power, because less power was wasted.
And also that dyno Doesnt really prove anything..I will give you prop's when i see a stock port,stock everything engine dynoed stock...Then remove the fan only and dyno it again! If it has a gain of 12 rwhp i will personally say you are my master and will except my humiliation!
01-06-08, 10:03 PM
#69
Bongolio
I just want to thank you nBOOSTe for bringing so much to the conversation........
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
Trust me i think what hes doing is cool! But im the type to question everything that doesnt seem right...know what i mean.
01-06-08, 10:11 PM
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I have the solution. It is already in the works. A customer of Defined Autoworks just dynoed on Defined Autoworks dyno. It is a simple build. N/A 6 port with stock ports. Just basic bolt-ons with a tune and made 142. Within the next 2-3 weeks, the customer will be returning to us and we are redynoing the car. We are going to do a base pull, deinstall the clutch fan/install a e-fan, and redyno. We will post the results, it is what it will be.
However, I am sure I already know the results, if little to no power gains it will be "I told you so", and WHEN it does make 8 more RWHP I am sure the responses will some to the affect of "where did you hide the super small nitrous shot" or what else did you guys do.
However, for the people who are generally interested in this thread and the gain of knowledge, this before and after dyno is being done for you. This way there will be actual info available to you guys and you won't have to read what this "internet rotory know it all/guru" have to say.
Jackson
However, I am sure I already know the results, if little to no power gains it will be "I told you so", and WHEN it does make 8 more RWHP I am sure the responses will some to the affect of "where did you hide the super small nitrous shot" or what else did you guys do.
However, for the people who are generally interested in this thread and the gain of knowledge, this before and after dyno is being done for you. This way there will be actual info available to you guys and you won't have to read what this "internet rotory know it all/guru" have to say.
Jackson
01-06-08, 11:48 PM
#71
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@Trjackson
Be sure to have a fan pointing at the front of the car. I'm interested in hearing the results even though such a small HP number may not tell us much.
@all
I remember reading one of my brothers muscle car tech magazines where they tested the mechanical fan vs installing an electric fan in different cars. The dyno gains were 3-7 hp if I remember correctly. I don't know if the fans had "clutches". The mechanical fans were big on the muscle cars but they didn't rev as high as a Wankel either. The electric fans will normally be off at speed and high rpm because the air entering the radiator is enough for cooling. The electric fans on my FD don't run except when it's hot or I do stop and go driving (idling).
Pulleys on the RX-8 gave about 11 hp and 7 lb/ft of torque.
Pulleys on the RX-7 FD gave 16 hp.
Source is...
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/
Click on dyno results.
Be sure to have a fan pointing at the front of the car. I'm interested in hearing the results even though such a small HP number may not tell us much.
@all
I remember reading one of my brothers muscle car tech magazines where they tested the mechanical fan vs installing an electric fan in different cars. The dyno gains were 3-7 hp if I remember correctly. I don't know if the fans had "clutches". The mechanical fans were big on the muscle cars but they didn't rev as high as a Wankel either. The electric fans will normally be off at speed and high rpm because the air entering the radiator is enough for cooling. The electric fans on my FD don't run except when it's hot or I do stop and go driving (idling).
Pulleys on the RX-8 gave about 11 hp and 7 lb/ft of torque.
Pulleys on the RX-7 FD gave 16 hp.
Source is...
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/
Click on dyno results.
01-07-08, 07:30 AM
#72
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I just want to thank you nBOOSTe for bringing so much to the conversation........
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
Are you basically saying GtoRx7 is a liar or making this **** up. I think when someone has a dyno in their shop and builds the obviously high quality products he produces and sells, that he is for real. Or he has snowed a lot of people with his bullshit. I will find out because he is going to build and tune my 20b n/a.
One more thing. I really like the way GtoRx7's post are very informative. It is nice to get information from someone that is building high performance everyday for his job. Not the same as a lot of internet racers on this forum.
hey, did you recently find out that mazdas existed? this is ridiculous info. come one there are 14 year olds in puerto rico that know more that this cracker jack toy info. give me a break. serously
01-07-08, 07:54 AM
#73
Listen just calm down ..noones saying he is a liar you just need to understand that some of the things he has stated may be hard to stomach for most.
Trust me i think what hes doing is cool! But im the type to question everything that doesnt seem right...know what i mean.
Trust me i think what hes doing is cool! But im the type to question everything that doesnt seem right...know what i mean.
Second, I don't know what people want to hear or not hear. Someone does some basic upgrade before and after dyno testing. Granted there could be some other variables we are not aware of. But he has posted what he found.
My main comment is to people who just make comments that are not relevant in any way. Such as the stuff nBOOSTe has made.
nBOOSTe, I have been into RX7's for many, many years. I don't understand what your point or relevance to this thread is. If you know all of this great. I pretty much know it also. But do you actually think just because you know something that someone else would not be interested. I don't quite understand how someone comes to a forum like this with your outlook.
This thread is about what one person found using his own dyno. Not about what is on your sisters crayon box or what fourteen year olds know in PR. Who cares. But, someone that say is in their teens and just bought their first N/A RX7. They might be really interested in some real world dyno numbers with some simple upgrades. Peace and have a great day all!!
01-07-08, 04:45 PM
#74
Bongolio
I have the solution. It is already in the works. A customer of Defined Autoworks just dynoed on Defined Autoworks dyno. It is a simple build. N/A 6 port with stock ports. Just basic bolt-ons with a tune and made 142. Within the next 2-3 weeks, the customer will be returning to us and we are redynoing the car. We are going to do a base pull, deinstall the clutch fan/install a e-fan, and redyno. We will post the results, it is what it will be.
However, I am sure I already know the results, if little to no power gains it will be "I told you so", and WHEN it does make 8 more RWHP I am sure the responses will some to the affect of "where did you hide the super small nitrous shot" or what else did you guys do.
However, for the people who are generally interested in this thread and the gain of knowledge, this before and after dyno is being done for you. This way there will be actual info available to you guys and you won't have to read what this "internet rotory know it all/guru" have to say.
Jackson
However, I am sure I already know the results, if little to no power gains it will be "I told you so", and WHEN it does make 8 more RWHP I am sure the responses will some to the affect of "where did you hide the super small nitrous shot" or what else did you guys do.
However, for the people who are generally interested in this thread and the gain of knowledge, this before and after dyno is being done for you. This way there will be actual info available to you guys and you won't have to read what this "internet rotory know it all/guru" have to say.
Jackson
Im not sure if this is pointed at me but i just wanted to say if there is undoubtly proof then i will make no excuses trust me im not that kind of man..I am in no way a know-it all etheir,hell i dont know **** really!..Like i said earlyier it just doesnt sound right..ya know 8-12rwhp..
Im actually glad you would be able to do this for us!..And if it does make anywhere over 8rwhp i will gladly admit that i was wrong and i get to learn somthing new in the process!
Peace!
Dustin
01-08-08, 07:55 PM
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I have a little bit of a different take on what was said. Just to add insult to injury. A engine is a power unit, and in order for it to be functional in producing power certain things must be driven off of it. To say that changing to a lightweight flywheel is not increasing power, to me that isnt really true. Sure, the rotors are putting the same force on the crank, so the power internally is the same. Technically we could remove the mechanical oil pump, drive accessories and put it on life support, and it will produce more power to the crank. Still the rotors are at the same force, but I dont see how you can say its not making more power. Even changing the springs to very soft ones inside the engine could free up friction, and make a little more power to the crank. Yet this is not making more HP? None of us can rate a engine by its actual internal hp, everything robs power from this number. EVERYTHING. Pumping losses, heat, friction, accessories, weight, and the list goes on and on. So if it dyno's more power to the crank, I say the engine unit made more power, because less power was wasted.
When thinking of it that way, which is not the wrong way by any means, you have to notice the where the power loss is coming from and where after you are gaining it.
Now you said something about springs, where in a rotary there are no valves so there are no springs, for some reason I think you know this..... Oh wait, you talking about the seal spings?
- A lightweight flywheel will increase power AFTER the flywheel not before it.
- Removing the air pump will increase available power at the crank.
- Switching to a race geared transmission (if you find one) will increase power AFTER the transmission, not before it.
- Installing a lighter aluminum driver shaft will increase power AFTER the driver shaft, not before it.
So your thinking is correct, if you put the engine on a engine dyno with all accesories and ran it, you would get say, 150BHP ( number being thrown out), you remove all the accessories and run the engine again, you could get say, 160BHP (another number being thrown out there). This is not saying the engine is producing more HP, only that more HP is available at the crank.
Last edited by RotaMan99; 01-08-08 at 08:02 PM.