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my full bridge build t2 n/a

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Old 04-22-11, 05:21 PM
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putting together
Attached Thumbnails my full bridge build t2 n/a-23-7-.jpg   my full bridge build t2 n/a-23-11-.jpg  
Old 04-22-11, 06:16 PM
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What apex seals you running?
Old 04-22-11, 06:34 PM
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I kinda like the grabber green and light blue color combo. I've got something like that in mind for the white REPU. It's white so you gotta get creative.
Old 04-22-11, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by t-von
What apex seals you running?
all oem. bottom line is mazda knows there stuff. and if it isnt broken dont fix it.
Old 04-22-11, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jorx7
all oem. bottom line is mazda knows there stuff. and if it isnt broken dont fix it.
It is good stuff but was not meant for high rpm' applications such as your build. The OEM seals seal well but are heavy and will chatter at high rpm's.
Old 04-22-11, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
It is good stuff but was not meant for high rpm' applications such as your build. The OEM seals seal well but are heavy and will chatter at high rpm's.

Exactly the reason I would love to have some 2 piece NRS seals for my 20b. They just cost too damn much.
Old 04-23-11, 09:52 AM
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JORX7,
The car looks nice.. I was at jpr when you picked up your motor. Good Luck with everything..

DWRX7
Old 04-23-11, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
It is good stuff but was not meant for high rpm' applications such as your build. The OEM seals seal well but are heavy and will chatter at high rpm's.
car wont be doing high rpms 8grand maybe 81/2 if i miss a shift running her hard thats it. i built the car for fun and a little bit of some track time. and if i get tired of my hard suspension and roll cage and racing seat and want a full interior and a radio again. ill just pick up a clean 1990 s5 model and drop my motor right in and have comfy car again with some kick.
Old 04-23-11, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dwrx7
JORX7,
The car looks nice.. I was at jpr when you picked up your motor. Good Luck with everything..

DWRX7
thanks hopefully jim does a bbq this year and ill bring her down for everyone to see.
Old 05-23-11, 05:20 PM
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I am not sure if i am seeing right but was the rotor housings notched to match the bridges ? From the looks of it the eyebrow port dont go under the housing ? humm lol why not ? lol

Last edited by gready123456; 05-23-11 at 05:46 PM.
Old 05-23-11, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jorx7
car wont be doing high rpms 8grand maybe 81/2 if i miss a shift running her hard thats it. i built the car for fun and a little bit of some track time. and if i get tired of my hard suspension and roll cage and racing seat and want a full interior and a radio again. ill just pick up a clean 1990 s5 model and drop my motor right in and have comfy car again with some kick.
If that's the case then why did you build a full bridge? 8000 rpms is where the bridge is just starting to come into power. You should have just made a nice streetport motor if your only going to 8000-8500rpm's.
Old 05-24-11, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
If that's the case then why did you build a full bridge? 8000 rpms is where the bridge is just starting to come into power. You should have just made a nice streetport motor if your only going to 8000-8500rpm's.


Peak power nearly 1000rpm lower than when the engine was a street port. Peak torque may be at 6200 but there is more there at 3400rpm than the street port did at peak, which was also about 5500-6000rpm or so. (I lost the dyno sheet)

Latest half bridge is in the back of my wagon, hopefully going into the car tomorrow. You get most of the torque of a full bridge with most of the driveability of a stock port.
Old 05-25-11, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by peejay


Peak power nearly 1000rpm lower than when the engine was a street port. Peak torque may be at 6200 but there is more there at 3400rpm than the street port did at peak, which was also about 5500-6000rpm or so. (I lost the dyno sheet)

Latest half bridge is in the back of my wagon, hopefully going into the car tomorrow. You get most of the torque of a full bridge with most of the driveability of a stock port.
That's pretty poor power output out of a bridgeport, regardless of 12a or 13b, really bad if it is from a 13bbp. Gotorx7 made 230+ hp out of a streetport for example and power curve was way better than above. So what are you trying to prove?
Old 05-25-11, 11:29 PM
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FWIW: If you can't afford Ianetti Ceramic apex seals, stick to stock Mazda 2mm 2 piece seals. Forget the rest even exist.
Old 05-26-11, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
FWIW: If you can't afford Ianetti Ceramic apex seals, stick to stock Mazda 2mm 2 piece seals. Forget the rest even exist.
Can these stock seals handle the high rpms of a bridgeport ?
i have some stock 12a seals i want to go full brigde but i need to know is the stock seals can handle it ??
Old 05-26-11, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
That's pretty poor power output out of a bridgeport, regardless of 12a or 13b, really bad if it is from a 13bbp. Gotorx7 made 230+ hp out of a streetport for example and power curve was way better than above. So what are you trying to prove?
His power curve is all forced to the right side of the tach, exactly what you claim a bridge port will do. Which is fine for what he does, but I need a powerband that tapers off early so that there is a safe 2000-3000rpm cushion over the powerband. If peak power was at 9000 then the engine would have to be reliable to about 12,000 for that power to be useful, due to tirespin.

My point: Bridge ports make more power everywhere and are an advantage even if you keep revs under 8000. Like anything else, the porting needs to be optimized.

I guess the 787 Lemans car should have been a street port too, then, since it never revved over 8000rpm while racing...
Old 05-26-11, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by gready123456
Can these stock seals handle the high rpms of a bridgeport ?
i have some stock 12a seals i want to go full brigde but i need to know is the stock seals can handle it ??
Do not run 3mm seals over 8500rpm ever.

I have been running Atkins 2mm seals to 9500-10000 and noticed some rapid wear on the backside, where the springs ride, but they don't chatter and break like iron 3mm seals do.

If you want to run high RPM with 3mm seals, get carbon-aluminum. Or do what I did, and start playing with 2mm seal 13Bs.
Old 05-26-11, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
FWIW: If you can't afford Ianetti Ceramic apex seals, stick to stock Mazda 2mm 2 piece seals. Forget the rest even exist.
I disagree with you. Stock seals are too heavy for a N/A application unless you are just going to use it as a daily driver, and then if that were the case why would you build a full bridgeport motor for that. Carbon apex seals are the best choice for N/A motor going in excess of 8k rpm for the price.

Originally Posted by gready123456
Can these stock seals handle the high rpms of a bridgeport ?
i have some stock 12a seals i want to go full brigde but i need to know is the stock seals can handle it ??
LIke I said above, if you plan on reving past 8k rpm's then the stock seals will chatter and cause housing wear. Carbon apex seals are dirt cheap, light, and they seal very well at high rpm's.
Old 05-26-11, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay

LIke I said above, if you plan on reving past 8k rpm's then the stock seals will chatter and cause housing wear. Carbon apex seals are dirt cheap, light, and they seal very well at high rpm's.

Anyone happen to know how many miles you can typically get out of carbon seals before they start flipping out of the rotors?
Old 05-26-11, 04:54 PM
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That will entirely depend on average RPM.

The Atkins lasted me about 40-50k before they were worn out. That's 1-2x as long as 3mm carbons would last.
Old 05-29-11, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
That's pretty poor power output out of a bridgeport, regardless of 12a or 13b, really bad if it is from a 13bbp. Gotorx7 made 230+ hp out of a streetport for example and power curve was way better than above. So what are you trying to prove?
i agree with peejay, even on the old tune the car is a totaly different animal, also logan at defined autoworks is almost done with my new exhaust system and he has al the specs to my build, once his system is on the car and enzo tunes it we should hit 240 possibly 250 to the wheels. but logan said i might have to play with my intake mainifold for higher power, i had the motor built to last and jim has done that, the oem seals are perfect for what i wanted.
Old 05-30-11, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jorx7
i agree with peejay, even on the old tune the car is a totaly different animal, also logan at defined autoworks is almost done with my new exhaust system and he has al the specs to my build, once his system is on the car and enzo tunes it we should hit 240 possibly 250 to the wheels. but logan said i might have to play with my intake mainifold for higher power, i had the motor built to last and jim has done that, the oem seals are perfect for what i wanted.
Ok, well good luck, hope it all works out for you.
Old 05-31-11, 12:15 AM
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Engine looks nice and clean, excellent job
Old 06-06-11, 02:54 PM
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First of all nice build! Looks good, going to be a lot of fun, but to avoid disappointment I think you should probably be a bit more tentative about what power you are likely to make. Firstly you are using steel seals which is limiting you to about 8000 rpm, maybe 8500rpm if u pushing it, my bridgeport and the other bridgeports ive seen reach peak power at about 8500 - 8750 rpm and continue with usable power at almost peak power till about 9500rpm - 10000rpm, maybe more but revving past that is pretty risky. They were however all using IDA carbs or in my case IDA style throttle bodies, which all have shorter length intakes than your setup, so your longer intake will help bring your power band down in the rpm range and more into the range that you are using, which is good it will also unfortunately bring your peak power down . Another problem is that the duration used in the intake timing of a bridgeport is designed to increase volumetric efficiencies at higher rpms by taking advantage of ram effect, therefore increasing torque/power, an effect you will be losing to some extent when running at lower rpm. And to get truly large power figures it is important to match your intake 'tuning' which is based on the length of your intake manifold ( pressure wave propogations in the intake become advantageous at certain engine speed ranges based on the speed of sound and so on, also occurs with exhaust scavenging in 'tuned' exhausts, wont go into detail as this is probably getting a bit long winded already) with your intake ports timing range of effective ram effect, as the two can compound to get even larger gains, having them at different engine speed ranges isn't entirely disadvantageous as it can serve to smooth out a power band, making it wider and less 'peaky', but at the loss of peak power. Unfortunately you are also lacking the flow of IDA style intakes, be it carburetted or fuel injected, shouldn't have too large of an effect as you aren't revving that far above stock, but still everything counts.

Now don't get me wrong, will be a fun car to drive, a lot of mid range power, wide power band, a lot of torque and 'grunt'. But I don't see it making 250whp, even on bridgeports designed for high rpm, peak power, this is a fairly tall order, and requires close attention to the intake and exhaust tuning and intake and exhaust timings for higher rpm ranges. When all of these are optimum, very large power figures can be achieved with bridgeports, such as the the Australians who are racing with some of the most powerful bridges out there, using very short intake manifolds, incredible attention to all of these factors and revving to 10000rpm or more, and they are making about 250 - 260 wHp on very advanced engines.

So I'm sorry but it seems like your engine builder has been lieing to you somewhat, I would expect something more in the 180 - 200 wHp range at best as your setup is less than optimal. But with the wide powerband and so on it will still accelerate great, should be exciting, im interested in seeing the results, good luck!
Old 06-07-11, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by EpitrochoidalPower!
First of all nice build! Looks good, going to be a lot of fun, but to avoid disappointment I think you should probably be a bit more tentative about what power you are likely to make. Firstly you are using steel seals which is limiting you to about 8000 rpm, maybe 8500rpm if u pushing it, my bridgeport and the other bridgeports ive seen reach peak power at about 8500 - 8750 rpm and continue with usable power at almost peak power till about 9500rpm - 10000rpm, maybe more but revving past that is pretty risky. They were however all using IDA carbs or in my case IDA style throttle bodies, which all have shorter length intakes than your setup, so your longer intake will help bring your power band down in the rpm range and more into the range that you are using, which is good it will also unfortunately bring your peak power down . Another problem is that the duration used in the intake timing of a bridgeport is designed to increase volumetric efficiencies at higher rpms by taking advantage of ram effect, therefore increasing torque/power, an effect you will be losing to some extent when running at lower rpm. And to get truly large power figures it is important to match your intake 'tuning' which is based on the length of your intake manifold ( pressure wave propogations in the intake become advantageous at certain engine speed ranges based on the speed of sound and so on, also occurs with exhaust scavenging in 'tuned' exhausts, wont go into detail as this is probably getting a bit long winded already) with your intake ports timing range of effective ram effect, as the two can compound to get even larger gains, having them at different engine speed ranges isn't entirely disadvantageous as it can serve to smooth out a power band, making it wider and less 'peaky', but at the loss of peak power. Unfortunately you are also lacking the flow of IDA style intakes, be it carburetted or fuel injected, shouldn't have too large of an effect as you aren't revving that far above stock, but still everything counts.

Now don't get me wrong, will be a fun car to drive, a lot of mid range power, wide power band, a lot of torque and 'grunt'. But I don't see it making 250whp, even on bridgeports designed for high rpm, peak power, this is a fairly tall order, and requires close attention to the intake and exhaust tuning and intake and exhaust timings for higher rpm ranges. When all of these are optimum, very large power figures can be achieved with bridgeports, such as the the Australians who are racing with some of the most powerful bridges out there, using very short intake manifolds, incredible attention to all of these factors and revving to 10000rpm or more, and they are making about 250 - 260 wHp on very advanced engines.

So I'm sorry but it seems like your engine builder has been lieing to you somewhat, I would expect something more in the 180 - 200 wHp range at best as your setup is less than optimal. But with the wide powerband and so on it will still accelerate great, should be exciting, im interested in seeing the results, good luck!
you are right on all your info.and i would not be upset if it put a little less than what were hoping for, i was able to put down 190 on my 6port with stock ports, so we will see what will happen with this build especialy with definedautos exhaust system. and shorting the mainifold is something we have considered for future mods, should have results by mid july.


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