my full bridge build t2 n/a
#77
Old [Sch|F]ool
#79
Rotary Freak
Off Topic Again
I know that this is off topic, but what front and rear flare kit do you have on the car? I am thinking of putting a wider wheel and tire setup on my car and those would do just fine.
I am certain a bunch of you will say, "idiot, its a blah, blah, blah and you should know that", but it looks really cool and easy to install. It will give me the clearance I need for the setup I want to run. Any clues as to where I can pick up a front and rear flare setup like that?
Eric
I am certain a bunch of you will say, "idiot, its a blah, blah, blah and you should know that", but it looks really cool and easy to install. It will give me the clearance I need for the setup I want to run. Any clues as to where I can pick up a front and rear flare setup like that?
Eric
#80
I know that this is off topic, but what front and rear flare kit do you have on the car? I am thinking of putting a wider wheel and tire setup on my car and those would do just fine.
I am certain a bunch of you will say, "idiot, its a blah, blah, blah and you should know that", but it looks really cool and easy to install. It will give me the clearance I need for the setup I want to run. Any clues as to where I can pick up a front and rear flare setup like that?
Eric
I am certain a bunch of you will say, "idiot, its a blah, blah, blah and you should know that", but it looks really cool and easy to install. It will give me the clearance I need for the setup I want to run. Any clues as to where I can pick up a front and rear flare setup like that?
Eric
#81
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so much misinformation in this thread..
real bridge port (looks different then people show on this forum) makes power at 8000rpm and up producing 250+rwhp for 12A and 300+ for 13B. most people run 12A cuz they are better suited for bridge, indeed running 3mm seals, cuz in 12A thats all you can. at that point, all you have to worry about are gears and bearings, meaning you dissemble and reassemble the engine due to worn bearings more often then apex seals.
its pointless to run a bridge port if you not planning to go more than 8k rpm.
its pointless to run a bridge port if you not planning to go more than 8k rpm.
#82
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Still stuck in internet forum knowledge that bridgeport, peripheral port etc. is high RPM stuff only? Do you know that 787B in endurance trim didn´t exceed 8000 RPMs? By your reasoning they should use street port or what?
Much to learn
#83
Rotary Freak
Interesting statement. I run a 1/2 bridge NA TII with NA S5 internals and on the August 1st weekend, the car was able to spin the rear tires pretty hard in 2nd gear at 2,500 rpm and then pull strongly all the way to well over 8,500 rpm. It was like driving a Trans Am car or an evil handling American V8 car as it just wanted to spin the back tires down low in the rpm range and this was with hot Toyo RA1's in very good condition. I was leaving nice rubber lines as I pulled out of the corners and this was with 4.10 rear gears and a stock NA box.
For the first time since I put this package together, it is doing what I was hoping for, giving good torque and still pulling hard at redline. Just need to get it on a chassis dyno to see what it is producing.
To the point of this part of the thread, good street port or a mild bridge port can still make decent power and be tractible.
Eric
For the first time since I put this package together, it is doing what I was hoping for, giving good torque and still pulling hard at redline. Just need to get it on a chassis dyno to see what it is producing.
To the point of this part of the thread, good street port or a mild bridge port can still make decent power and be tractible.
Eric
#85
Old [Sch|F]ool
#86
Old [Sch|F]ool
By the way. I think I found my missing power. Gonna find out tomorrow. My exhaust is... more open... nowadays. And yet it is also quieter.
Half bridges freakin' rule. You get a lot of the advantages of a full bridge with almost the same tractability as a street port. My car is 100% drivable except for one small niggling point: You can't drive at near zero throttle below 4000rpm. This makes city traffic a kind of pain unless you always shift into Neutral, coast a bit, put it back into 5th and accelerate a little, back into Neutral, etc.
I do say "six ports suck" but I tell you what. This half bridge -SE engine still feels a whole hell of a lot stronger than the street ported S4 engine I built. And I'm only running the -SE engine to 8000, the S4 engine would see over 9000rpm... which it needed to do since it didn't make any torque.
#87
What's the point??
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Nice to know I'm not the only one with the very little throttle issue on a HBP. I still need to do some tuning to clean up some small issues with mine, and change the cut BR9ES's out for some stockers to see if I get any difference in running. What IM are you running Peejay?
#88
Rotary Freak
I have some video that was shot from my buddy Al's peri port RX7 as he followed me around the track. Its really interesting to see th differences in the cars and where they are each quicker. His car is about 200 lbs lighter than mine and he has a 4.88 rear gear, but I was able to come out of this really tight hairpin (with both of us generating quick power oversteers) and hold him off all the way through second gear. He would catch me and pass me as he has about 2,000 rpm left in his motor and can carry each gear longer. I could also pull away from him down the front straight as the gearing worked a lot better for me.
If I recall correctly (I didn't build the engine, Joe from RPM built it) it has a Judge Ito extended monster street port primary port, a Racing Beat Bridgeport secondary plate port and a Racing Beat racing style exhaust port. It is very flexible and now seems to be running incredibly well and truthfully, I have seen no point that the pulling slows down or drops off. The only thing that makes me shift is fear.
Eric
#89
Old [Sch|F]ool
So it's not misunderstood: My 3mm seal comment is for IRON seals. Carbon-aluminum seals obviously do not have this RPM limitation.
#90
Rotary Freak
I noted the same thing with the S4 N/A intake manifold. It just kept pulling and pulling. I can't wait to try out a new combo with the Holley manifold.
So it's not misunderstood: My 3mm seal comment is for IRON seals. Carbon-aluminum seals obviously do not have this RPM limitation.
So it's not misunderstood: My 3mm seal comment is for IRON seals. Carbon-aluminum seals obviously do not have this RPM limitation.
After we went to the ported TII engine that I am running now, we put a holley intake on it with a Holley 650 double pumper. Car ran really strong, but got enormously crappy gas mileage. It has only taken 4 years, but we have finally got a setup with the 4 ITB's that is actually faster than the Holley setup.
Eric
#91
Old [Sch|F]ool
After we went to the ported TII engine that I am running now, we put a holley intake on it with a Holley 650 double pumper. Car ran really strong, but got enormously crappy gas mileage. It has only taken 4 years, but we have finally got a setup with the 4 ITB's that is actually faster than the Holley setup.
Depending on round tuit availability, I would like to use a GSL-SE and an FC primary rail back to back and inject fuel above the throttle plates.
#93
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#94
Old [Sch|F]ool
And I have seven S4 N/A rotor housings that I wouldn't feel bad about turning into peripheral port housings, since they suck. (Probably only one doesn't have significant flaking) Until I go that stupid-long project route again, I think I may be able to put together basically a copy of Eric's engine as described above.
I am not asking for much, I just want 300 crank HP like the Group B cars had, but I want it street drivable, so it has to have things like functional heat and maybe not be horribly loud...
#96
3. Open the ports a lot earlier so that there's more port window open before closing it
By the way. I think I found my missing power. Gonna find out tomorrow. My exhaust is... more open... nowadays. And yet it is also quieter.
Half bridges freakin' rule. You get a lot of the advantages of a full bridge with almost the same tractability as a street port. My car is 100% drivable except for one small niggling point: You can't drive at near zero throttle below 4000rpm. This makes city traffic a kind of pain unless you always shift into Neutral, coast a bit, put it back into 5th and accelerate a little, back into Neutral, etc.
I do say "six ports suck" but I tell you what. This half bridge -SE engine still feels a whole hell of a lot stronger than the street ported S4 engine I built. And I'm only running the -SE engine to 8000, the S4 engine would see over 9000rpm... which it needed to do since it didn't make any torque.
By the way. I think I found my missing power. Gonna find out tomorrow. My exhaust is... more open... nowadays. And yet it is also quieter.
Half bridges freakin' rule. You get a lot of the advantages of a full bridge with almost the same tractability as a street port. My car is 100% drivable except for one small niggling point: You can't drive at near zero throttle below 4000rpm. This makes city traffic a kind of pain unless you always shift into Neutral, coast a bit, put it back into 5th and accelerate a little, back into Neutral, etc.
I do say "six ports suck" but I tell you what. This half bridge -SE engine still feels a whole hell of a lot stronger than the street ported S4 engine I built. And I'm only running the -SE engine to 8000, the S4 engine would see over 9000rpm... which it needed to do since it didn't make any torque.