I'll look at my Handcontroller - hopefully tomorrow...

 

do you have any more info about this my timming is at 23 from 4k-7k

 

Thanks Silverrotor!!!!

 

Raton: I'm sorry for taking abit longer than expected. It's actually screen 29 you are refering to. It's values are as follows:

Aux RPM_ON OFF

CRK-29 12.14aS

Does this help you or answer what you are looking for?

 

Yes ... thanks...., i change does values and I need to know if they were right...thanks

 

I have a LT-10S with the laptop adapter. It was programed by Microtech with a MAP for the FD3S but I am installing it into a S5 instead. Can someone tell me how to save and load complete MAPS using a laptop.

 

Both the FD and the FC have relutor(magnetic) crank angle sensors, so why does microtech say we have to send them back my LT10S for them to reprogram before I can install it into a FC if it had a FD base map. I should be able to change the trigger settings to match that of a FC. I like the size of this EMS and had planned on buying another one, but now that I have discovered that even after you buy that laptop adaptor you still cant save and load new maps, I wish that I had purchaced something else. Isn't the entire point of buying a stand alone EMS do be able to reprogram it at will when you make changes. Microtech's web site should tell people before they purchase one of these that YOU CAN NOT LOAD NEW MAPS YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

On that timing note I will say for a ported motor its hard to get her to stay smoothfor me to hit her with the light lol! But if you read the book that comes with your microtech it fully explains everything on page 8 about the timing. 10* BDTC for piston motors and 5*ATDC for rotaries. It took me a while to understand this but listening to you guys makes alot more sense to me now. I have a question about my car while its idleing though. When I give it some gas it doesnt smooth out untill 2500rpm is that because of the overkill on fuel form the base map or is it from my port size?? She is really chunky until she spins a bit it seems like.

-Mike

 

Hey silverotor, i was having all kinda or problems so i reset my whole thing to the specs you posted first with the same basic mods you listed, not it wont idle til it starts to warm up some, and i get constant light white smoke, out the tail pipes im running 14.7 air/fuel once its warm, and my other problem is bogging, i really gotta baby it to get the rpms up if i just hit it it bogs and stalls, im just learning how to tune this so any help would be great, thanks

 

I bought a LT10s because Microtech USA's web site states:

"All new "S" models will feature new 32 bit processor that rivals any aftermarket EMS, Extra PWM output standard, It has the ability to accept upgrades that we can send out to enable user definable functions such as user definable number and position of load sites, Save maps to disc rather than memcal/dongle and many other features that we will be introducing later! Arrival Spring '04"

After I recieved my ecu I discovered that I CAN'T "Save maps to disc" even though they have been making this claim since 2004. After that I decided not to put it into my FD3S and whould instead put it into my 91 T2. Then I discovered that I CAN'T change the promgraming from a 12 tooth trigger(FD3S) to a 24 tooth trigger(FC3S). I find it crazy that the microtech will not let me change the trigger setup even though both cars use magnetic pick-ups.
I ended up selling it at a loss to get a real FULLY programable AEM EMS for the FD3S and a Wolf3D for the FC3S t2. I would never have purchased any ecu that does not alow FULL user programing and they should let poeple clearly know that that is not a feature.
The save to disc feature and user reconfiguration are the most important problems that need to be fixed. Untill then it is not worth the few dollors you save over a fully functioning ems.

Here is a sceen capture for Micritech-USA's web site showing the B.S. cliam. :

 

no help i see

 

How do you tell what car its setup for?

 

what are the prices for fc3s microtech? website address? is it worth the money? i am upgrading my turbo and bigger injectors on a rebuilt, slight modded TII with rb exhaust, walbro255, tb modded.
thanx

 

No matter what i do i cant get mine running, it ran, but not good, so i tried everyone of these maps and its worse and worse and now it wont start, i dont know what to try

 

Diverse, check your plugs, might have fouled one or more.
rob, microtechefi.com all prices are in aus dollers. yes I would easily say it is worth the money if going higher boost(~>12psi)/bigger turbo/bigger injectors.

 

i got it running but still not well, and my turbos shot again, so i will be looking for a new one now

 

DiverseCC, I'm sorry for not responding earlier. I'm glad you are back on track!

 

Thanks, but i dont know whats really going on, but like i said now i know i need a turbo, i keep going through turbos and i dont know why

 

ive been out of the MT game for a while, but just put a ltx12 on my 20b car. The stock microtech valeus are pretty risky for high boost levels. at low boost they are fine. the best thing to do is adjust the t_map curve to subtract more timing at higher boost levels.

a ballpark total timing number (the one shown on the data guages screen when you are driving) should be about 15* advance at 15+ psi, and add a degree or two for every psi lower, so like 18* at 12 psi and etc. note that these are only ballpark values, and to get the best values possible, you should have an experienced tuner take a look at your car, preferrably with an egt guage.

 

also anyone want to post up a load map for 550 primary, 1680 secondary? my wideband is on the fritz, and im too lazy to street tune it anyway...

 

guess this thread is useless and dead now?? no posts for about 5 months, i still dont get this microtech

 

I hope it's not dead a friend of mine was looking for a map for a half bridge 13bt with master power t-70 with 1.00 hotside, hks 50 mm wastegate, 720 primaries, 1680 secondaries, 12x24x3 FMIC, aeromotive FPR, supra TT fuel pump, MSD 6AL with microtech lt10s. Need help please

 

Are the 13b-RE stock maps somewhat similar to the s5 13b-t?

 

dude i dunno if you have fixed it by now, but the idea of this thread is that they are BASE maps. In other words they are close enough that your car should start and run, but thats about it. After that you have to do the tuning yourself. If you cnat figure out how to tune it, the best thing is to take it to a shop where an expereinced tuner can do it, and you can watch what they do and mayeb learn how to tune better.

A short tuning 101 for people having problems:

1) Start in Normal rather than matrix mode, with all 'extra' settings turned off (like decel, rpm cruise, intake temp adjustment, etc)
2) If in doubt, add fuel first, if that doesnt help, then try subtracting.
3) Start with a map that is rich everywhere, and subtract fuel till it runs well/at the right AFR
4) Dont try to use a wideband to tune in vacuum, just lean it out till it starts to run abd, then add a little fuel back in.
5) In boost, try to get an AFR curve that starts at 14.x from vacuum, and richens up as you increase boost. For high boost 11.0 is a good number to shoot for.
6) Once you get it tuned so it runs well at WOT, try cruising around town and see if it runs well at part throttle, sometimes you have to adjust it a little more for part throttle even if the WOT is dead on.
7) NEVER tune on it unless it is all the way warmed up and there is no chance that you have low fuel or a bad plug or etc causing it to run funny. If there is something else wrong you will tune on it forever and never get it fixed, then your maps will be totally screwed.
8) After it is fully or almost fully tuned at normal temperature, then you can tune the temp map so it will run/idle cold. To do this let the car sit overnight, and get your wideband warmed up and laptop ready before you start it, then start it up and add/subtract fuel to make it run right as it warms up. You may have to repeat this a couple tiems to get a decent curve.
9) Only after you have driven it several time with no problems at all should you start to adjust some of the extra fuel saver options, or alternateively, switch to matrix mode. Note that matrix mode will give you better drivability and a smoother idle, but it is really hard to rough tune in it, so get it as close as possible before switching.
10) Try to save your map before each time you do any major tuning, that way if you screw up you can revert back.

Hopefully that helps some of y'all who are having problems. It is just a drop in the bucket of tuning tricks, but it should get you started.

Pat

 

^^^thank you i have been pulling my hair out because i have nobody to turn to for this and i barely know the first thing i will try what i've read and see how it goes