HIMNI Racing

This isn't a base map but it seems like a good place to post it anyway.

This is my tuned map that I'm using right now. It's clean and pulls hard.

The car has retarded amounts of mods but I belive these are the biggest variables for AFR....

Stage 3 street ported S5 engine,FMIC, T04B Turbo (60 a/r comp,1.16 a/r hotside, P-trim) , 720cc pri. & 880cc sec. injectors, 40 psi static fuel pressure with RRFPR (1:1 ratio) Aeromotive fuel filter, walbro 255, 3" + exhaust, Low boost setting 14.7psi...High boost setting 16.2psi

Idle
Screen 1

30" Hg ... 1.00
25" Hg ... 1.00
20" Hg ... 1.10
15" Hg ... 1.33
10" Hg ... 1.62
05" Hg ... 1.86
00" Hg ... 2.00

Load
Screen 3

30" ... 1.52
25" ... 1.48
20" ... 1.67
15" ... 2.00
10" ... 2.67
05" ... 3.33
00" ... 3.86
2psi ... 4.29
4psi ... 4.67
6psi ... 5.00
8psi ... 5.57
10psi ... 6.19
14psi ... 6.95
16psi ... 7.76
18psi ... 8.90
20psi ... 10.00

RPMwot
Screen 17

0500 ... +00%
1000 ... +00%
1500 ... +00%
2000 ... +00%
2500 ... +00%
3000 ... +00%
3500 ... +00%
4000 ... +00%
4500 ... +00%
5000 ... +00%
5500 ... +00%
6000 ... +00%
6500 ... -01%
7000 ... -02%
8000 ... -03%
9000 ... -04%

RPMcrs
Screen 18

0500 ... +00%
1000 ... +00%
1500 ... +00%
2000 ... +00%
2500 ... +00%
3000 ... +00%
3500 ... +00%
4000 ... +00%
4500 ... +00%
5000 ... +00%
5500 ... +00%
6000 ... +00%
6500 ... +00%
7000 ... +00%
7500 ... +00%
8000 ... +00%
9000 ... +00%

Pump
Screen 19

Pump1 Amt ... +10%
Pump1pulse ... +2%
Pump1Trig ... +14%
Pump1Stop ... 00"Hg
Pump2Start ...2000
Pump2Amt ... +25%
Pump2Time ... +10
Pump2Trig ... +16
Pump2Stop ... 00"Hg
Pump1ADV ... +5
Pump2ADV ... +5
Pump Dwell ... 3.00
Pump Timers ... NO
Pump1 Sync ... NO
Pump Spare ... +8%

Water
Screen 20

124 C ... +00%
99 C ... +00%
82 C ... +00%
68 C ... +08%
60 C ... +12%
46 C ... +15%
38 C ... +20%
31 C ... +30%
24 C ... +35%
18 C ... +45%
11 C ... +50%
5 C ... +50%
-1 C ... +55%
-9 C ... +60%
-17 C ... +70%
-25 C ... +00%

Air_t
Screen 21

124 C ... +00%
99 C ... +00%
82 C ... +00%
68 C ... +00%
60 C ... +00%
46 C ... +00%
38 C ... +00%
31 C ... +00%
24 C ... +00%
18 C ... +2%
11 C ... +3%
5 C ... +4%
-1 C ... +5%
-9 C ... +6%
-17 C ... +8%
-25 C ... +00%

Crank
Screen 22

124 C ... +00%
99 C ... +00%
82 C ... +00%
68 C ... +05%
60 C ... +15%
46 C ... +20%
38 C ... +26%
31 C ... +31%
24 C ... +41%
18 C ... +50%
11 C ... +57%
5 C ... +62%
-1 C ... +67%
-9 C ... +72%
-17 C ... +72%
-25 C ... 72%

t* rpm
Screen 23

Idle ... +20
1000 ... +22
1500 ... +20
2000 ... +20
2500 ... +25
3000 ... +25
3500 ... +25
4000 ... +25
4500 ... +25
5000 ... +25
5500 ... +25
6000 ... +25
6500 ... +25
7000 ... +25
8000 ... +25
9000 ... +25

t*map
Screen 24

20 psi ... -13
18 psi ... -14
16 psi ... -12
14 psi ... -12
10 psi ... -10
8 psi ... -10
6 psi ... -06
4 psi ... -04
2 psi ... -02
00"Hg ... +00
05"Hg ... +00
10"Hg ... +02
15"Hg ... +03
20"Hg ... +04
25"Hg ... +05

t*air
Screen 25

124 C ... +00%
99 C ... +00%
82 C ... +00%
68 C ... +00%
60 C ... +00%
46 C ... +00%
38 C ... +00%
31 C ... +00%
24 C ... +00%
18 C ... +00%
11 C ... +00%
5 C ... +00%
-1 C ... +00%
-9 C ... +00%
-17 C ... +00%
-25 C ... +00%

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ... +15
1000 ... +15
1500 ... +15
2000 ... +14
2500 ... +12
3000 ... +10
3500 ... +10
4000 ... +10
4500 ... +10
5000 ... +10
5500 ... +10
6000 ... +10
6500 ... +10
7000 ... +10
8000 ... +10
9000 ... +10

t*Inj
Screen 27

0500 ... 120
1000 ... 150
1500 ... 150
2000 ... 150
2500 ... 150
3000 ... 150
3500 ... 180
4000 ... 180
4500 ... 210
5000 ... 210
5500 ... 210
6000 ... 240
6500 ... 240
7000 ... 270
8000 ... 270
9000 ... 270

t* wat
Screen 28

124 C ... +00
99 C ... +00
82 C ... +00
68 C ... +00
60 C ... +00
46 C ... +00
38 C ... +00
31 C ... +00
24 C ... +00
18 C ... +00
11 C ... +00
5 C ... +00
-1 C ... +00
-9 C ... +00
-17 C ... +00
-25 C ... +00

Option
Screen 30

Opt MIXtrm +00%
Opt TPScal +34%
Opt TIMtrm +00%
Opt Static +00%
Opt TIMmax +27
Opt RPMwot 04"Hg
Opt RPMcrs 17"Hg
Opt AF_ste +08%
Opt REVlim OFF
Opt REVcut OFF
Opt BstCUT OFF
Opt REVstg 3000
Opt MAPstg 04"Hg
Opt %stg +60%
Opt Decel OFF
Opt Dwell 3.00

Screen 31

Config +04 Cyl/R
Firing SEQUENTIAL
LOAD = MAP Sensor
DWELL = Time base
Input Trig +POS
Spark Trig SER4
Timing check OFF
Rpm_ON 2500 Log
Map_ON 02psi Log
Sample +00 Log
Spare +00 Log
SHIFT 9750 Dash
WATER 92 C Dash
Air_T 40 C Dash
BOOST 17psi Dash

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

wow thanks! good place to start for me. I have a 60 trim with .96, and about the same amount of mods. are 880 secondaries enough fuel, heck I have 1600cc injecting gas pumps

patman

iTrader: (3)

thanks dude...might try this map. how do you have your timing set up? 20* at idle seems like a lot to me...

pat

HIMNI Racing

That's what I thought too so I asked Rolo (the guy that tuned it) and he said " it's better like that"....I trust him...he kicks *** = )

a7r

Hey Himni,.. What is your idle RPM? How much vacuum are you pulling? I've got my timing at 0 degrees TDC with a 15 degree split, at idle.. and with a 13:1 AFR, I'm seeing a little more than 400mm/16" Hg at 880 RPM.

patman

iTrader: (3)

NEVER, EVER set timing to TDC. Why do people keep doing this?

HIMNI Racing

Cold idle is about 850, hot around 950. I see about 18" hg at idle. My timing is set @ the leading mark. (5 degrees ATDC) I want that extra cushion.

It's knida freaky, because a big street port normaly has less vac. Maybe cuz it's a higher comp. S5 engine...I don't know. It's go to be right ...everything (dash unit, hand controller, profec, TT, HKS boost gauge,all give me the same # I'm not bitching though = )

When we tuned it, I had a low 13 AFR @ idle. Under hard boost, about 11.3 ish. Sometimes a tad lower.

HIMNI Racing

Maybe so that the values they see are actual?....I really don't know.

patman

iTrader: (3)

No not the ref point. setting that to TDC is wrong, but works. he says he has his actual timing set to TDC at idle, which there is no reason for. timing should never be advanced past 5* ATDC.

pat

a7r

It was done under the suggestion of a mechanic, who will remain nameless, but is the lead mechanic of one of the oldest rotary shops in the US.

Why do you think this is wrong?

patman

iTrader: (3)

Dude, i dont care who suggested it, think about it. If timing is set to TDC, that means that just when the Rotor Hits TDC, the plug fires and the fuel combusts. You have to look at it in terms of forces and components. When the rotor is at TDC, all the force goes straight towards the eshaft because the forward component and backward componenet are equal. the only thing that makes the motor run is the momentum of the flywheel, which diverts the expanding pressure. Needless to say, a bunch of energy is wasted, and it is very hard on the engine, not to mention the probability of detonation.

AT 5*, however, there is a forward component that is greater than the backwards component, which lets the expanding gases push the rotor in a smooth arc. This is a GOOD THING.

So, if i am understanding you correctly, and you have your actual spark events at 0* TDC, then whoever told you to do that is completely full of it.

IF, however, you mean that you have the crank set to TDC, and the Static set to 0, but the actual timing map set to 5*, then i misunderstood you and im sorry.

pat

a7r

Detonation while idling at 850 RPM, with subatmospheric inlet pressures, at 8.5:1 compression, with a cold spark plug? I don't think so.

You're acting like the combustion event is a singular instaneous pressure, aimed from the sparkplug at the e-shaft, it's not. The rotors are spinning at 850 RPM, in the proper direction. At TDC, you're going to start burning fuel as the the rotor passes towards the exhaust port.

I'm trying to idle cleanly here, not build power.

It's already traveling in a smooth arc.. the rotors are spinning at 850 RPM. By the time the fuel/air mixture is fully burned, the rotor face is well on its way to the exhaust port.

I don't know you, but I'd put money on the fact that this person has built more 13Bs, installed more 13Bs, and tuned more 13Bs, than you have. That doesn't mean anything by itself, but that's where I'm coming from.


No, you understood me correctly. I don't want to start a pissing war, and hose this thread. Thanks for your input.

patman

iTrader: (3)

ok, i'll leave you alone. it is your car, after all, and you can do what you want to it.
if you decide you want a better explanation of all this, pm me and i'll be glad to help.

pat

ps silverrotor, feel free to delete all my off-subject crap from your thread, dont mean to gum it up with irrelevant junk.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

PATMAN, what do you have to say about you're entire timing map where all the timing numbers are before top dead center??? Those numbers are all advanced, not retarded. The sparking is occuring before the rotor is even done compressing the air/fuel charge. Timing is advanced because the combustion process isn't absolutely instantaneous, and the higher the rpm's, the more timing advance you will need. This is a simple automotive fact that is true for all vehicles with a combustion engine.

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

actually at idle the rotors are spinning at approximately 283 RPM. The flywheel spins at 850.

patman

iTrader: (3)

yes, but not at idle. there is a reason that timing is advanced more as engine speeds increase. it is common knowledge that a rotary should be timed to ~5* ATDC at idle. otherwise it will run poorly, and, more importantly, if you have a smooth timing curve, all your timing values after that will be too far advanced. I am not going to argue about this any more here, as i like the idea of this thread's subject and i dont want to fill it up with junk. I was only offering him some advice, and he didnt take it. ok, so its his car, he doesnt have to take my advice.

pat

RotaryWorks

Yo Hmni! glad to see that engine is working out. I guess all the time spent on that beast was worth it. Well untill i got attacked by the man size skiters out there or that crazy unknown animal that runs around. Hehehe or better yet the signs that point to the woods selling fruit! hehehe jk, i am glad you are running well i got my t2 running with the mtech and i am tunning it now. Well take care bro

Shane

FC_mania

so anyone have a map for T04B .96 a/r , 680 prim , 1680 secondaries , nippondenso fuel pump , sx fpr , paralel fuel system , s5 engine , 10psi of boost with a 20X9X2 FMIC?

heheh thanks

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

i might have a map pm me mania

rx7theone

Hi guys i need a LT8 MAP FOR A 93 RX7 WITH A 60-1 TURBO 3MM SEALS, STREET PORT, 550 PRIM, 1600 SECD BIG FUEL PUMP, DOWM PIPE, MIDE PIPE, KOYO RADIATOR.FUEL REGULATOR,I CANT GET THE CAR TO START IN THE MORNING BECAUSE IT SEEMS LIKE IT IS FLOODING THR SPARK PLUGS AFTER I KEEP TRIYING FOR A WILE IT STARTS FINE AND EVERYTHING IS OK BUT I NEED TO FIX THE COLD START MY CRANK SETTING IS FLAT NOT TOUCHED I THINK THIS MUST BE THE PROBLEM OR THE WATER SETTING I JUST NEED A MAP FOR THESE MODS PLEASE. I AM GOING TO CHAGE THE PRIMARI INJECTORS TO 850 BECAUSE I WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE BETTER THANKS GUYS.

rx7theone

I Need A Lt8 93 Rx7 Map. Mods Are 60-1 Front Mount Inter Cooler, Mid Pipe, Down Pipe, 550 Pim, 1600 Sec, Cat Back,koyo Rad, Big Fuel Pump. I Need A Map As Soon As Possible Please Thanks Guys.

patman

iTrader: (3)

so take some off the crank setting for whatever temp you are having the problem at.. not hard to do..try it, see if it helps any.

rx7theone

AM WONDERING WHICH OF THE MAPS WOULD BE CLOSER TO MY MODS SO I CAN TRY TO START MY CAR IN THE MORNIGS ?

patman

iTrader: (3)

dude...just chill out, stop trying to use somebody else's map, and adjust your own. after all, thats what the microtech is for....

your problem should be very easily fixed just by turning the key to 'on' and reading the temp, then take away a little bit of fuel from that temperature on the crank map.

rx7theone

or maibe someone mite have a map for 850 prim 1600 sec since am changing the 550 to 850 primeries thankl.