BTW, I suggest stock 550 primaries for a more steady idle, 850's are more of a pain, and result in a more "lopy" and less consistent idle. Your call........

 

yes but 850 is a really really good setup

less gap between injector sizes resulting in a smoother transition
and can support 600rwhp

I need to verify my map on a dyno
right now
I'm sufffering from a low voltage problem
11.5 v at idle and 12.2 @ WOT
and my Walbro can not flow right cause of it
cuasing me to go lean

once I get it all sorted
I'll post my load map for 850/1680's

 

as for the fans

a thermostat switch is the only way
you can keep the fan coming on when it hits 180c

 

thermostat switch OR just use the microtech aux output.

 

ok, ive got a new concern...just finally got my paws on a wideband and tuned the car up real nice today. Anyway, i was looking at the timing advance values. Does anybody else think they are a bit high? At 6k rpm, no load, i am seeing 28*. at 6k rpm, full boost (9psi), its still around 23. that's a lot of advance. i havent had any detonation problems...even with my high comp rotors, but it seems like a lot to me. also the guy that was helping me tune (xstransam) says that he runs 14* at full boost and 6k in his FD (haltech).

so..should i worry about it or do y'all think its ok?

by the way those numbers are with the stock timing map on the first page, unchanged.

pat

 

Am sorry guys am a litle kew at these things. so all i need is to get a thermostat swich and thats it ?

 

yep. or use the microtech aux output and the aux_ fanON function

pat

 

I CANNOT TELL IF YOU ARE USING A 87 ALTERNATOR OR 89 BUT THE 89 CRANKS 90 AMPS COMPARING TO 87 ALTERN. 75 AMPS
IAM ALSO WORKING ON MAPS FOR 850 PRIM. AND 1600 SEC.
MAYBE WELL SHARE THE RESULTS.

 

wtf?

 

Everything I'm seeing Is wrong and annoying. Keep the caps lock down please.

 

Does Any One Have A Map For A Stock 88' 13b Motor?

 

Screen 31

Config +04 Cyl/R <- wtf????
Firing SEQUENTIAL
LOAD = MAP Sensor
DWELL = Time base
Input Trig +POS
Spark Trig SER4
Timing check OFF
Rpm_ON 2500 Log
Map_ON 02psi Log
Sample +00 Log
Spare +00 Log
SHIFT 9750 Dash
WATER 92 C Dash
Air_T 40 C Dash
BOOST 17psi Dash




Config +01 Cyl/R <---------- wtf???
Firing SEQUENTIAL
LOAD = MAP Sensor
DWELL = duty cycle
Input Trig +POS
Spark Trig +MAZ
Timing check OFF



Guys I'm confused here, maybe I'm an idiot?

 

1st screen looks right
with stock coils (external igniters)

I have bosch coils on my LTX-8 (internal igniter)

Screen 31

Config +04 Cyl/R
Firing SEQUENTIAL
LOAD = MAP Sensor
DWELL = Time base
Input Trig +POS
Spark Trig -neg
Timing check OFF
Rpm_ON 2500 Log
Map_ON 02psi Log
Sample +00 Log
Spare +00 Log
SHIFT 9750 Dash
WATER 92 C Dash
Air_T 40 C Dash
BOOST 17psi Dash

 

question:



why isn't this stickied?

 

I didn't want to appear biased.

 

lol, i think just about every one of us has asked if there was a base map somewhere, no one gave me the info til i found this thread and noticed dozens of other similar ones.

i was even about to post the specs myself until i found you already posted them.

 

I'm sorry Karack, you are actually right. I had a few members pm me to thank me In there own way due to this thread. It looks like I got them out of a jam, which Is always good to know. Anyway, enough of me.

 

hehe, now help me with why his car won't rev up smoothly, wants to cut out.

the base map wouldn't let the car run continuously or idle, i had to richen it up almost 300% on the idle and load maps to idle and rev with light input but no matter how hard i try to tune it it is not driveable to adjust the load map. i need to find a way of checking the trailing coil timing, his wires won't give me a signal no matter where i put the timing light lead and i know the coil is firing but i have a guess that the leading and trailing are firing opposite if that is even possible, can that happen if the CAS signal wires are wired up backwards? though i am fairly positive i wired it right i am running out of things to think of.

last thing to check is fuel pressure under a load, it was getting 40 PSI while cranking but i didn't check to see if it is dropping under a load.

last thing, it is tougher to adjust while in MAP mode, i started by adjusting it in TPS mode but both have the dead spot under moderate throttle inputs.

no vacuum leaks anywhere, emissions removed and everything simplified.

i guess i should have just posted a new thread on the subject, oh well.

 

I've got a t2, 3in exhaust etc, hybrid to4b, 1600 secondaries and 550 primaries.

Just purchased a mt8 with fuel maps for a 500rwhp bridgeport turbo t2, was wondering if i should change the maps back to the standard maps offered on this thread and work from there or alter the bridgeport turbo ones?

Any help would be much appreciated

 

It would be a good idea to post these maps for the interest of us all. Would you mind?
For you setup, i would suggest adjusting the current maps to suit your engine, on a dyno.

John

 

comment about the base, and other maps for cars in cold areas:

on my base map, the Crank map was set very very rich, around 50% more fuel at freezing.

this is way too much for most rotaries, and can cause flooding.

i changed mine to go from the base map value at the highest temp, in a pretty straight curve to -10 at the lowest temp. if anyone is having flooding issues, or even just hard cold starting, you may want to check this screen.

pat

 

How did you get on with the map for 1680cc secondaries?
any body else keen to share maping for bridge 1680cc to help us out with a starting point?

 

550's with 1680 secondaries is too much of a split, you may get it to work but it will not transition smoothly and there will be rich/lean spots where you have the transition area set to come on.

 

Ive just installed my lt8 in my '88 turb FC & are having issues with the base maps supplied. I firstly put silverrotors map in & it idled quite rough etc from too much fuel I guess as my engine isnt ported & his is.
So then I adjusted one of idle settings a little until it idled fine, so I cheked this against the map that kabooski has supplied & it was close to his values.
So I decided to change all my settings to what he had, but when I did the car would idle for about 15secs then dies & wouldnt start again.
So I changed back to silverrotors values but left kabooskis' idle values to try & rule some settings out & it still wouldnt start. I then changed fully to silvertotor settings but adjusted my idle maps a little in between so it would idle slightly better. Then took it for a drive & after about 1 min it died at idle, & I had to alter the 15mh fuel ( which is approx at idle) up again to silverrotors values to get it to start.
Anyone got any ideas what is going on, im confused & wanna get it running well enough to drive it to get tuned.
HELP!!!

 

silver rotor....., i was using your setup but i couldn't..., can you see wich was the value on one of the last screens (i think 30) were it sais Aux RPM OFF....., is that correct?
Thanks