dr.jones63

I just got my car back from a rotary shop who installed a rebuilt street ported motor, BNR stage 3 turbo, K2RD fuel rail, 1600cc secondaries, areomotive FPR, FMIC.
aka $4000 in parts

Car drives like sh*t.

I noticed some alarming things when I picked it up:

1. My boost gauge reads zero at idle and it should be reading vaccum. reads 5 while putting though town.
2. It got broken into while it was at the shop and my Apexi ACVR along with the stereo and police scanner was stolen........the mechanic, a rotary "expert" didn't even know the ACVR was missing so I have no boost control. Default open waste gate? Vac hoses going to wasegate capped.
3. The boost gauge along with the hose going to the pressure sensor is not hooked to the stock location on the upper intake manifold. Plugged into the vaccume rack.
4. Got 11 backfiring mpg driving it home.
5. My EGT was 1500 putting through town?
6. My apexi turbo timer isn't reading o2 sensor
7. RB 80 psi oil pressure regulator but running mid scale on stock meter.
8. Handheld Microtech controller o/s

anyone? or am I just paranoid and need to wait for breakin on the motor?

Infini IV

What model MT are you running.. (Lt8, LtX8, Lt8S, LtX8S)?

Where do you have the MT vacuum line running to? If it's not already there, run it to the first of the three nipples on the UIM post-TB (the ones facing the alternator). That nipple should be a clean vacuum/boost source.

If you are running with no boost controller, just connect the wastegate nipple to the nipple on the compressor housing/cover. If you don't have a nipple there, tap one near the outlet of the compressor housing.

If you are running a seperate boost gauge, just connect it to the nipple on the UIM facing the passenger fender.

Make sure you reset the TPS, and set the timing. You should also set the rpmstage, mapstage, and %stage to compensate for your larger secondaries.

dr.jones63

LT8S

The boost sensor and gauge is tapped in between the rear of engine and the firewall. I have it connected to the nipple on the UIM facing the passenger fender on my other T2's


I just drove it 200 miles home and haven't had a chance to look it over very close but I need to get to the insurance and make a claim to get the breakin repaired.

White_FC

If you are talking about the nipple on the intake runner then that would be your problem.

If you only get it off one, especially the secondaries, of the intake runners the signal will pulse alot due to reversion mainly of the exhaust pulse, IIRC.

I had this problem on my old N/A engine, it would run like utter puss when I hooked it up there.. Didn't know what was going on until I looked at my display one day and saw it was pulsing between 3 different settings! (05"Hg-0"Hg-0Psi)
So yeah, no good, change that.

dr.jones63

Ok popped the hood after work today and traced out the boost gauge/pressure sensor. The Autometer boost gauge T'd to the boost sensor (RB FCD still connected and lieing to the microtech?) T'd to the BOV and connected to the ..................Pipe between the turbo outlet and the FMIC.

I feel used, and the unnamed "rotary specialist" shop didn't even say "I love you" or offer me a t shirt.

So now if I hook the boost to the upper intake manifold-duh, the car should lean out. I don't know if the unnamed "rotary specialist" shop trid to tune the microtech with it hooked up wrong and if hooking it up right will cause too lean. Have a microtech wih no hand controller still. #@$#%$@%&#$&.

advice wanted?

Good news is my insurance is going to fix my door, replace stereo, replace ACVR

White_FC

Umm... there should be a vacume line going straight from the microtech to a vacume source...

Don't worry about the one going to the external boost sensor (unless your microtech has been specifically configured for one.. if thats even possible.?).

dr.jones63

Thats what I thought, so I called the unnamed shop and asked them if it was ok for me to hook it up to the UIM, because it should run way leaner (reading vac instead of 0-5 psi) and I don't want to void the warranty on my new motor and the shop owner blaimed it on one of his techs and said it was ok for me to hook it up right so as soon as I have time thats next.

dr.jones63

Re-routet the boost gauge+ sensor to the UIM today. Ran better instantly, 18 psi vac at idle. The first chance to give the motor a real once over since I got the car back. Totally incredible, the wiring wouldn't even look good on my lawn mower, I'm a sodder and heat shrink guy, and every thing is crimped twisted and covered with wrinkeled electrical tape, but the most pressing need is that the EGT is 1450 putting around town and yes I think the reading is correct. I think my timing is off. You get what you pay for, $1300 michrotech install ???

White_FC

Well like the old saying goes...

If you want something done right, you do it yourself...

dr.jones63

Your 100% right. The only reason I had it installed was I had a rebuilt street ported motor installed by the engine builder at the same time and didn't want to risk the warranty on the motor.

I need to learn how to rebuild motors I guess