ok so this is whats going on. I reflashed my 2.2v ms1 cause i couldnt get it to run. I finally reloaded everything after my flash. Tryed it holy crap it fired up. Started to tune my ve table an all the little things to make it idle. With luck i got it to idle. It was getting late so i said ok ill give it a shot tomorrow.

went out the next day turned it over nothin no fuel injectors. I had spark but no pulse on the injectors. The weird thing was the megatune was saying i had pulse an duty cycle. I thought maybe it was my voltage being low. So i jumped the car an vroom fired up. Tuned a little more an called it a night. Then this is when it all started

Went out yesterday an it did the same damn thing. Spark no fuel. My fuel pump was turning on my fpr gauge shot up to 40-45 psi. Turned over an still nothing. So i thought ok ill try jumping it again. Jumped it an nothing turned over an nothing. I cleaned up my posts an tryed agian. Still no fuel going into the engine. I couldnt figure it out so i went over an played with the harness moved wires around. Tryed agian fired up so i went threw some stuff an tuned what little i can. Called it a night

SO TODAY i went out there let it cool down over night. Tryed to start it agian today an the same thing nothing just spark. Tryed wiggling the wires nothing. Tryed changing my grounds. Nothin tryed a new battery nothing. I charged my battery most of the day an same thing nothing just spark. So i opened up megatune went threw everything didnt change anything. Tryed it an it started an stalled. Tryed it agian nothing. So i started looking around on here. I'm using a narrowband as of right now cause i have to save to get a wideband. I changed some stuff on the ego stuff. N it fired up. Drove it an it dyed cause i didnt tighten the db37 an it fell out. Got it started agian came out tryed agian nothing. I tryed adjusting my tps an it started ran an shut off. Tryed it agian nothing moved the hardstop for idle tryed agian started ran shut off. NOw its not even starting. What could this be anyone please

 

Do you have low impedance or high impedance injectors?

Ken

 

its kinda a odd thing going on there. I have s5 high as my primaries an i have s4 low imp as my secondaries. I have the secondaires ran to the stock resistor an the primaries just ran off the 12v. So pretty much the 12v power runs out to the resistor box two wires that come out go to the secondaries. Then the main power wire runs to the primaries. ill make a picture to show u

 

 

This is unrelated to the problem you are having, but I think it would be better to run individual wires from the resistors to the secondary injectors, rather than tie them together.

 

That will definitely cause problems. Paralleling equal resistors cuts their overall impedance in half, so having measured 6 ohms on each resitor in the pack, you would now only be providing an extra 3 ohms of series impedance to the injectors.... but then you've also wired the injectors in parallel, so their total impedance would also be halfed, less than 1.5 ohms, so your total impedance to the MS driver would be less than 4.5 ohms, which should be considered set-up as low imepdance, requiring the use of PWM. If you had run individual power wires from the resistor pack to each injector positive, you would be ok.

 

but still the two injectors that are ran like that are the secondaires that arent even firing at the time of cranking. So im pretty sure that they wouldnt make any difference in trying to start the car. Maybe after 3500 it would but not at 230rpm of cranking. Ive went threw the board an nothing is touching i went threw megamanual an checked. The only think i can come to think of is my u7 might be bad. Or my db37 is causing a weak connection on the 4 pins for the injectors.

These are just thoughts i bought this preassembled by someone off here. The way its all made it looks like maybe diy did it cause the solder joints look to good for a amature. an the board was sprayed with a clear coat

 

Your starting issue sounds exactly like the PWM settings are off. Runs fine but won't start easily, if at all.

What are your injector settings?

 

like i said before my prim are high an my secondaries low. sec are ran threw a resistor so i think that they would work with a high imp setting. BUt the pwm is set to 100 thresh is 25.4 pretty much what aaron wrote in his write up.

 

so i flashed it an tryed agian uploaded all new stuff an left my ve table the way it was when i had it idling. Tryed agian with everything but my ve set to aarons write up. N still nothing i pulled my uim found a crappy soldered injector clip fixed it. Tryed still nothing. I guess no car show for me tonight but its ok give me more time to tune if i ever get it running hahahah.

 

Have you tried using test mode?

Ken

 

test mode? whats that explain im kinda new to ms forum

 

also i dont know if i stated but this is a 2.2v board what controls the injectors on the board an how do i check them

 

so i went over the board an all the right resistors caps ex are right an i have my xg1 xg2 jumped is this right

 

Actually I forgot you are on ms1. I am not 100% sure that has test mode.

Can you post a datalog of a start attempt?

Ken

 

hey ken heres a log of me trying to start its not long but i hope this will help us out. i tryed to upload the file n its not the right type or something so heres a pic

 

heres the log

 

Hey ken did u get a chance to take a look at that

 

might be your cold start enrichments. Good way to test this is to turn the key on/off a couple of times and then try to start it. This primes the injectors and essentially causes the first ignition event to be richer. Don't over do it or you will flood it.

 

yeah ive tryed that a few times to get the injectors to do quick squirt hoping maybe this will atleast get me enough fuel to start the car to run. an it would try no run though so idk

 

Yeah sorry I looked at your log. In some cases with ms1, you'll have RPM but it won't change much on crank, which means it's not actually really getting sync with the wheel due to noise.

Generally when this is the case, you'll get behavior like what's in your log with 11,1,5,7 settings, then you can restab the CAS a couple teeth off (so that tooth #3 is under the Ne sensor) and use 1,3,7,9 settings, and in that case you'll get RPM all over the place.

In either case if you get enough fuel in before the noise causes problems, the engine can start.

Generally when I see these issues, it means grounds/power need to be cleaned up.

Ken

 

ok ill give this a shot in a little i have to go pull a transmission out a grand dam. but when i get back ill mess around with it see if maybe i can get it going agian. Also where do you perfer to ground cause i have it ran out to the battery ground on the block above the starter? N i have all my sensors IAT CLT TPS grounded back to the man grounds on the MS

 

in this pic i see that you have a max rpm of 26000 so that means that you have alot of noise in your cas this look to me like a wiring problem.

 

your just jelous my car revs that high hahahah. No im only kidding ill take a look tonight it could be cause i have the sheild on the grounds of the ms db37. I think having the main ground to were the cas is grounded to by the starter is cause the noise. also i need to look around an see if i have any crack stock insulation on my cas. Thanks for noticing that though cause i thought i was just normal to spike like that at first. My cas wire is pretty long so it might be that to. Ill tighty it all up try what ken said an be back with my results

 

I run the MS ground to the engine, and run a couple grounds from the engine to the chassis.

The battery gets a ground cable that connects to the driver side strut tower, and goes on to the starter. I cleaned every ground point with brake cleaner and a wire brush, then used new bolts to connect them and covered them with dielectric grease.

I can start this car now (which had massive noise problems before) on ms1, ms2, and ms3.

Ken