Does anyone have a wiring diagram to wire up ls1 coils to a E11 on a 20B? I have a pic of the coil connector..Also is the 20B cas just as good as a 13B one? I noticed the 20B connector is 3 wires and the 13b is four wires.. Thanks for the help..

 

There is just an additional ground on the LS1 Coil. You have to decifer which ground is on the Coil Pack harness, either an ecu ground, or chassis ground, BUT, this is an opportune time to make a new coil harness anyways.

If you are using a relay for your Inj/IGN power, wire pin D to the key switched power, C to pin 3-8 (respectively) on the 34 Pin, B to pin 14-16 (choose 1, but combine all 6 to one wire), A to the block.

Hopefully, that will lend you some help.

 

thanks

 

b to pin 14-16 on the 26 pin.

 

Got it.. one more question... I got that coil "C" goes to pin 3-8 on 34 pin cnnector. Is this also correct? Also for the 6 injectors also?

T1-pin 3
L1-pin 4
T2-pin 5
L2-pin 6
T3-pin 7
L3-pin 8


T1-INJ 1
L1- INJ 2
T2- INJ 3
L2- INJ 4
T3- INJ 5
L3- INJ 6

 

I dont understand your pinout above, what is "T1" and "L1"

You shouldnt need to mess with the injector grounds, unless you are doing a full harness install.

So just staying on the topic of Coils, pin 3-8 on the 34 pin is respective to how you have your e11 setup (or will) in the software. Each one of those pins (3-8) is an ignition driver. If you email me the basemap you'll be using, I could give you some insight to exactly which Coil should go to each wire, but it shouldnt be that hard to figure.

The injector grounds should wire up to pin 19,20,21,22,27 and 28 respective to your base map setup.

Basically 1 wire for each pin per device.

Ex: Coil Pack 1, pin C on the coil, wires to pin 3 on the 34 pin connector. That is what i mean by respectively.

Email: John@RPSport.net

 

Ok.. I'm doing a full harness install.. Removing a Link ECU and installing a E11..

 

Well, hopefully I helped you out, do you have a guide you are working off of? Or at least the haltech pinouts?

 

I have both the 34 pin and 26 pin wiring diagrams. I'm just confused on the ignition.. IGN 1 would go to 1st coil and so forth. But does IGN 1 go to L1 plug? Or can i select it in the software to sent that coil to a specific spark plug.

 

As far as your CAS question my 20B (D-Series) has a four pin connector just like the 13B. The CAS itself is identical to the the 13B. If there is a 3-pin connector I would guess that each reluctor is sharing a common ground and the other two wires are signal. Would be easy enough to pop the cover off and look. The reluctor that sits next to the 24 tooth wheel is the "trigger" and the one that sits next to the 2 tooth wheel is the "home". Each reluctor needs to be grounded on the common side and the other side is the signal output to the ECU. In the four pin 13B setup two wires are ground and two are signal.

 

Thanks.. Yah my cas is pictured below. The two grounds become one wire. It's a three wire plug as you can see..

 

That's because that's not a factory Mazda plug.

 

Oh ok.. I guess Pettit installed the plug when they built the engine.

 

On a 13b is it possible to wire 2 leading LS1 coils to fire at the same time, and leave the ECU in waste spark mode?

Ive done this before using the mag pickup on a distributor, should this be an issue?

 

That pin distribution, where you get pins 3-8 from? and on the Injectors thats also not correct.

In1-L1, Inj2-L2, Inj3-L3, Inj4-T1, Inj5-T2, Inj6-T3.

Same thing for the coils.

Ign1-L1, Ign2-L2, Ign3-L3, Ign4-T1, Ign5-T2, Ign6-T3.

I hope that clears up any doubts about wiring up the injectors and coils.

As far as that 3 connector plug on your CAS, im sure that Pettite put that in there, G- and Ne- are common ground anyway in side the E11v2, or any other computer for that matter.

 

Have you checked out page 147 from the manual for setting up 20Bs? It gives you the instructions for setting up direct fire or distributor setups.

 

I noticed that page as soon as I made the post. I got all the info i need for the install... Look for some dyno #'s real soon.

 

Right off the Ecu Pinout. I asked because i have never seen any references made to L1 or T1, but I am new to the RX7 Community. Care to explain?

 

Bump...

Ive gotten people asking me about this in the past few days, just thought id bump it.

 

Claudio, what about for the E6X?

There was a pin-out photo floating around somewhere, but it just showed the functions of the pins on the coil, not which wire from the Haltech goes to its respective pin on the LS1 coil.

Any help?

 

IGN 1 to both leading coils.
IGN 2 to trailing 1
IGN 3 to trailing 2

Setup ignition as Direct Fire
Falling Edge
2.5 mS

You may increase the charge time if you have misfire issues but the LSx coils do not like a high duty cycle so don't jump right on a 5 mS charge time.

 

Actually Ludwig, im told that the ideal spark charge time for LS1 coils when used that way is actually 4.5-5mS.

But thats how its connected, yeah.

 

I've only used the LSx coils on one application and it was NA so the spark requirement wasn't that great so you probably have more experience with them. Seems like we discussed it on this board though that the coil didn't like a high duty cycle. It is designed for sequential use in an engine that doesn't rev much past 7000 rpm after all.

When using the coil (any coil) in a wastespark mode, like we're describing with the E6X above on the leading side, and using a charge time of 4.5 mS you're going to see a 90% duty cycle at 6000 rpm and close to 100% cycle at 7000. Correct?

 

That's why I don't reccommend them on a high rpm/horsepower rotary applications. I've seen them have serious spark blow out issuses on a 540 hp 20b application.
I know of other applications non rotary where they are ran at 6.0ms charge time to avoid high rpm misfire.

 

I spoke to a gentleman in SEMA last year and he said he installed a single LS1 coil onto a distributed V8, ran the charge time to i think 4-5mS but i cant really remember, and ran this engine (which was on an engine dyno) to 7000 rpms, and even though he said the coil got VERY hot it did not fail, they stopped the test, let it cool off, and restarted the motor again and it still ran. So by those standards, where the coil is actually firing for 8 cylinders, you could say that is a pretty abusive test and it passed.

So, i guess they are pretty tough coils.