rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

The three issues im having is one, if the previous owner labeled his injectors as
1-2-3-4 primary and secondary asuming where looking at it facing the rail. (plugs)
In what fashion should I attach them.


Second: In this picture their is TWO TPS, of the two! which would I splice inner or outer facing tb?


Thrid: As I don't want to completely fubar my seals aside from making sure the CAS wiring is clean and 100% intact, anymore details on not screwing up?



FYI: got haltech becuase of limp mode (3k redline no boost ...often)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Injectors: primary are 1 and 2 .Secondary are 3 and 4
Pri 1 and sec 3 are FRONT.
Pri 2 and sec 4 are Rear rotor.
Second pic is that of an s5 throttle body?
You use the Wide range TPS which is the one that rides on the cam.
I don't have a CAS so I can't answer that aspect.(FFE trigger wheel)

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

So back of the car closer to driver or TOP RIGHT be secondary rotar 4 and below that BOTTOM RIGHTary 2, TOP LEFT would be secondary 3 and below that BOTTOM LEFT primary 1? (front of car)



That correct?
34
12,
will use one attached to adjusters for the TPS essetially the bottom one not the one riding on a clip.

As for the CAS I have a plug so im just going to go with the obvious one...

One more addition as a question? The Leading coil is the front of car(near battery) and the Trailing is the one is near passanger/driver?

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Correct, leading coil is near the battery and trailing is behind the strut tower.

As for the CAS, just follow the diagrams here: https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...p-tips-850059/

The only thing I would suggest doing differently is to put items such as the injectors and CAS on a subharness using good connectors such as Delphi's Metripack sealed connectors. This is mostly a matter of preference, but will make it significantly easier if you ever change either one. Also, they have accessory clips so you can attach them to the car's sheetmetal with a M6 bolt. Makes for a cleaner, more professional install.

Mouser Electronics carries all versions from 2 through 10 terminals, the wire seals and terminals for great prices. On my own harness, I use the red wire seals exclusively since they fit 18awg wires (on a flying lead harness) and 16awg very snugly.

You don't need anything special to crimp them either, just a pair of common needle-nose pliers and a Non-insulated wire crimper such as this one:
Shop IDEAL 6" Wire Crimpers at Lowes.com

My entire haltech harness was made using these tools and works just as well as the factory-made GM coil subharnesses it connects to.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You use the Tps that goes in and out when it rides on that cam.As the Throttle is cracked the tps will adjust by that cam.(that gives you for example, 10%to 100% by varying throttle position) That is the tps you want to use.
The other Tps just springs out after idle,sort of thing,You Don't use that TPS.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

... So the one connected for the springy thing with the lifty looking thing.... for the TPS...
*the one closer to throttle body as in the Driver... or rear of car*

Thanks guys, the seller has helped me with everything such as the firing order, posting for people who dont know either.

Front rotor = front of car Primary is bottom 1, above that is secondary 3 To the rear or back of car Primary 2 is on the bottom and secondary 4 is above that.

As for the Coils, my issue was the leading having colored (green), connecting to ecu/trailing coil and the leading plug spliced into existing black/yellow leading (power).
CURRENTLY FACING ISSUE
I r need pictures even poopie ones (I can splice and dice but thats as far as i can go)
Only issue im currently still facing i,s BOTH the sensors I have are ment for faster and more accurate readings (BIGGER), Will be tapped but their is NOT enough room as my ARM is authentic greedy and littleroom for tapping less then an 1/8th of an inch same for my S5JDMTII coolant. (I have my waterneck bunged with a screw). SO my IAC or intake and my coolant sensors where do you recommend as I connect tap into the usual spots (I need the largest spot)

Anyone have any pictures and locations where I could tap into for larger sensors (FOR COOLANT), will tap my greedy larger but It probably would crack as it's cast!.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

C Ludwig has water temp senders that will fit in the stock location without tapping.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

In addition to what C. Ludwig has to offer, you can use the Coolant Temperature Sensor from a LS2 Corvette. Same thread pitch as stock FC one, but uses a different connector. It's a pull-to-seat Metripack 150 connector where the wires are fed through the housing first, terminals crimped on and then pulled back into the housing. Autozone carries a pigtail for $20 and the sensor for ~$10

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

So, about $30 from Autozone. Or $31.50 from the guy that's supported this forum for nearly a decade with free advice and support. I see the value there.

BTW, Autozone shows the price of their sensor at $21.99 and the pigtail at $12.99 on the web.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

For the injectors, you'll need to make sure they're setup as:

INJ 1 - P1
INJ 2 - P2
INJ 3 - S1
INJ 4 - S2

It was nice of who ever put that mess together to use all the same color wire. Sort through it and make certain you have the correct output on the right injector or you'll beat your head against the wall trying to make it run. If you would say what system you're using that would help.

The TPS sensor you want to use in the one in the bottom of the picture. Search the forum, I've posted the pinout and how to connect it a couple times.

The Greddy elbows are thick. You'd have to try to crack one.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

So, Now iv'e narrowd it down about 70% complete only issues.

To answer and give insight into what im working with. Haltech E6K

CAS - New issue Haltech 1st wire then cas 2nd wire
1Green- Green
1Brown - RED
1Blue - Black/white
1Red - slight pink

So? Green to green ok.... the rest welllllll

Any other place I can tap the Coolant temp into aside from the block that will give me a good reading., if not a fast and responsive sensor that's SUPER tiny...

As you can see I will be left with around 1mm NOTHING...

Only two more....... DO i leave the electrical load module/Idle speed stability, off my RHD N374 ecu aside my haltech e6k?

Any FINALLLLLY, With my stock sensor in my greddy arm, could I bore my larger sensor just somewhere flat off in the thinner part of the cast, or Must I remove my stock sensor.

If not... Is their smaller sensors that I could buy that will work, will post pictures of them for more detail.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

CAS.......................Haltech

Red.......................Yellow
Green...................Green
White....................Red
White/Black...........Blue


The stock water temp sensor in on the other side of the water pump from where you are holding the sensor in your picture. Remove it. It's for stock ECU use only. You can get the stock replacement 12mm sensor that threads right in it's place, or you can drill and tap that hole for the 3/8" NPT sensor that you already have.

I don't know why you're sweating the Greddy elbow. It's thick enough you can drill and tap it anywhere. Personally, I would do it where the stock sensor is.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

The stock sensor might be big enough but? What would I require to for this.
... my sensors are both around 3/4" the holes are like 7/8ths not inlcuding the threads...

I don't have the resources to fully remove the engine... I can jack up off the tranny, thats as far as that can go..

Asuming that my pinky ones kinda white i geuss my BROWN is my YELLOW so that will work
CAS.......................Haltech

Red.......................Yellow (BROWN)
Green...................Green (GREEN)
White (PINKISH) ....................Red (RED)
White/Black...........Blue (BLUE)


SOOO THANKYOU!@ L wig you saved me a heartattack...
... ASUMING my E6K, will take your smaller yet just as Potent injectors I would just need to refeed the wires into the new plugs...
(Cheaper and easier for myself to get new sensors. Asuming someone have upgraded ones that will fit in stock. IF YOU DO! Please PM and post for sale,
Need shipped to Canada... Coolant and IAC

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Have enough room to tap the sensors (cast is strong enough and the stock coolant is big enough to tap into).

OK! SO BIGGER QUESTION N374 haltech issue the




The small black box besides my N374 RHD ecu (have a S5 TII RHD motor)
Starts off with wires running undercar from under hatch to underbelly, then to a relay then from their to the battery and this box and probably something else...

I have it still wired in and seperated beside my haltech, will this be usefull anymore, as I have a E6K Standalone which acts without the original N374ecu/blackbox? I was told it has something to do with the rear rotors, but thats no longer revalant or is it? Should I remove the (purple battery I believe beacuse of gauge of wire) and just disconnect the connector?