Haltech why wont my car start?
why wont my car start?
i have fuel...seems like too much...
i have spark
i got timing mark lined up with timing lock....i did have to goof around with CAS to get line up..I had to movr CAS a bit back before stabbing it...but it lines up with mark now
i tried added fuel to maps nothing...i tried taking away nothing.....just attempts but nothing
I can smell and see fuel smoke but no start......I am going nuts....about to push it out side and say screw it...
i cant laod BBC base mp becasue i have XP and it wont let me...so i am working with a totally fresh MAP that was on the Haltec already..but i am not sure of the exact values to use..this is my first time and I hope i can do this
my wife is almost laugghing at me and complaing all at once...
any one near LIMA OHIO wanna come help me I am on a week off from work
i have spark
i got timing mark lined up with timing lock....i did have to goof around with CAS to get line up..I had to movr CAS a bit back before stabbing it...but it lines up with mark now
i tried added fuel to maps nothing...i tried taking away nothing.....just attempts but nothing
I can smell and see fuel smoke but no start......I am going nuts....about to push it out side and say screw it...
i cant laod BBC base mp becasue i have XP and it wont let me...so i am working with a totally fresh MAP that was on the Haltec already..but i am not sure of the exact values to use..this is my first time and I hope i can do this
my wife is almost laugghing at me and complaing all at once...
any one near LIMA OHIO wanna come help me I am on a week off from work
I'm kind of near by in Ossian, but will be busy the rest of the week and weekend. Are you still having problems connecting or are you able to adjust the map? I would suggest figuring out your connection problem before you do anything else. I would try a PCMCIA to serial port card as I have had much luck with them when using newer Windows and E6X's.
Also put in a fresh set of plugs.
Also put in a fresh set of plugs.
Last edited by fritts; Aug 13, 2009 at 11:41 AM.
thanks fritts for your offer....I dont have any problems getting online..the issue is when I try to downlaod a map onto Halteck ...as soon as I start it just goes "reconnect Halteck"
I have a map on ther right now..but i am sure it is just some default base map...
UPDATE!!!!!....i got it to start with pedal all the way down...but as soon as I let go or try to rev it it dies....i can restart with pedal down fine now..but still too much fuel
fuel is running out of my tailpipe.....but no matter how much fuel I takeout it still runs ppig rich...i tried to open a MAP i downlaoded onto my computer but it just comes up as numbers and mixed letters...is there some file translator or somehting i need to see a MAP file?
I have a map on ther right now..but i am sure it is just some default base map...
UPDATE!!!!!....i got it to start with pedal all the way down...but as soon as I let go or try to rev it it dies....i can restart with pedal down fine now..but still too much fuel
fuel is running out of my tailpipe.....but no matter how much fuel I takeout it still runs ppig rich...i tried to open a MAP i downlaoded onto my computer but it just comes up as numbers and mixed letters...is there some file translator or somehting i need to see a MAP file?
make sure your injector settings are proper (staged or however ur plannin on dion it, if u pick sequential or some such but have a fuel map set for staged ur gonna have issues) i did similar and was blasting my primary and secondaries both at low rpm/load and completely drowning my car
make sure your injectors arent leaking
your best option far as i can tell is to download the halwin software, whatever base map you can find thats close to your setup. open the map in offline mode and getchurself a pencil. start goin thru it and makin notes as to what the settings are. then go to your car and make em right. im guessin its gonna have to do with your injector mode tho. hope this helps.
make sure your injectors arent leaking
your best option far as i can tell is to download the halwin software, whatever base map you can find thats close to your setup. open the map in offline mode and getchurself a pencil. start goin thru it and makin notes as to what the settings are. then go to your car and make em right. im guessin its gonna have to do with your injector mode tho. hope this helps.
thank you Talksick....I really wanted to use Halwin but unfortunately i have a e6k and it doesnt support Halwin I am running DOSBOX..have no problems getting on line with HAlteck and making adjustments i just cant seem to make any headway..
sure but with or without a e6x you can still download the halwin software and basemaps and use the software to open the basemaps in offline mode and use them as reference while tuning your e6k however u go about it. im not sure how similar the options are between e6x and e6k but i cant see them being tooo far different. you could go so far as to open basemaps off line and tune your fuel an ignition maps to match point by point if thats your only option. i say this because you say u started with an initial map and are unsure of the settings. dont worry about using halwin to talk to your car, just use it as a reader for basemaps.
WOW dude I never thought about that...thast briliant..i will try tonight and in the morining...
i will tell u what thats some positive news and very creative think ing on your part dude,....awsome for that man thanks
i will tell u what thats some positive news and very creative think ing on your part dude,....awsome for that man thanks
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sarcasm?
either way to me it sounds as though its gonna be having your injectors set to sequential or batch or whatever the other options are besides "staged" which is what you want or ur gonna be firing your secondaries and primaries at idle, drowning it, unless you floor the throttle allowing enough air in to compensate
either way to me it sounds as though its gonna be having your injectors set to sequential or batch or whatever the other options are besides "staged" which is what you want or ur gonna be firing your secondaries and primaries at idle, drowning it, unless you floor the throttle allowing enough air in to compensate
no sarcasm at all..i downloaded Halwin last night ..now all i have to do is get a e6x map so i can look at it on halwin....i will let you know how it goes ok..
what is best for injectors? I am thinking staged for a stock setup but bigger injectors? what do you think..
what is best for injectors? I am thinking staged for a stock setup but bigger injectors? what do you think..
staged is is what most are using, kickin the secondaries on as u get on boost for a turbo an i think its 5500 rpm on NA.
when u look at the maps using halwin you will see where the secondaries come in by the sudden drop in injector time. one thing that confused me is that they stage one bar earlier then expected. if you see the drop on bar 13 then the stage point is actually 12, when the primaries are at max the secondaries come on, sorta like givin em a head start. your set up is gonna determine whats best as far as kickin in the secondaries. my self i run 550cc primaries and 800ish secondaries on a modded TII, 550s under vaccuum and 800s kickin in just before positive manifold pressure is achieved.
if you cant find a base map with exactly what you are looking for close will work. im sure results vary but i took a map for a setup almost the same as mine only with stock 550s all around. took the fuel map, left it as it was under vaccuum and simply shift scrolled across the whole boost area of the map and hit page down a couple times to lower the injector times a tiny bit to make up the 300cc difference. i did it pretty freestyle but if you are into the maths you can easily work it out to a percentage of what you need, i just freestyled an let my wideband do the work.
if you dont have a wideband you are gonna find it really tricky to get things working properly, so dont be drivin around like a lunatic on a basemap. my car idled an started great wih just a baemap, until the second i put any load on the engine. then i went way lean way fast, but wouldnt have noticed if not for the wideband. if you dont have one, get one. it really is about the handiest thing in the world as far as tuning goes and will allow you to make the small adjustments that make the car more streetable with a heap more confidence.
also when u have the basemap in there to your liking pay attention to the air temperature and coolant temperature compensation maps. if these are set too high you will find yourself flooding out no matter how much injector time you drop from your actual fuel map. coolant temp is easy to set.. start car an play with whichever bar it starts at until decent idle is achieved. rescale the rest of the bars to match. just sit in the car an let it warm up.. as it moves up each bar to operating temperature listen to your engine and watch the wideband, adjust each bar accordingly and once operating temp is achieved your set. the air temp is a lil trickier as you usually need to be moving. not sure if the e6k datalogs like e6x but you can use that with a lil creativity to look for changes in injector time or wideband voltage / air temp. i found i had little adjustment needed to the air map but the coolant map i think is a little more sensitive to your particular environment.
thats all i got for ya at the moment, post your set up
when u look at the maps using halwin you will see where the secondaries come in by the sudden drop in injector time. one thing that confused me is that they stage one bar earlier then expected. if you see the drop on bar 13 then the stage point is actually 12, when the primaries are at max the secondaries come on, sorta like givin em a head start. your set up is gonna determine whats best as far as kickin in the secondaries. my self i run 550cc primaries and 800ish secondaries on a modded TII, 550s under vaccuum and 800s kickin in just before positive manifold pressure is achieved.
if you cant find a base map with exactly what you are looking for close will work. im sure results vary but i took a map for a setup almost the same as mine only with stock 550s all around. took the fuel map, left it as it was under vaccuum and simply shift scrolled across the whole boost area of the map and hit page down a couple times to lower the injector times a tiny bit to make up the 300cc difference. i did it pretty freestyle but if you are into the maths you can easily work it out to a percentage of what you need, i just freestyled an let my wideband do the work.
if you dont have a wideband you are gonna find it really tricky to get things working properly, so dont be drivin around like a lunatic on a basemap. my car idled an started great wih just a baemap, until the second i put any load on the engine. then i went way lean way fast, but wouldnt have noticed if not for the wideband. if you dont have one, get one. it really is about the handiest thing in the world as far as tuning goes and will allow you to make the small adjustments that make the car more streetable with a heap more confidence.
also when u have the basemap in there to your liking pay attention to the air temperature and coolant temperature compensation maps. if these are set too high you will find yourself flooding out no matter how much injector time you drop from your actual fuel map. coolant temp is easy to set.. start car an play with whichever bar it starts at until decent idle is achieved. rescale the rest of the bars to match. just sit in the car an let it warm up.. as it moves up each bar to operating temperature listen to your engine and watch the wideband, adjust each bar accordingly and once operating temp is achieved your set. the air temp is a lil trickier as you usually need to be moving. not sure if the e6k datalogs like e6x but you can use that with a lil creativity to look for changes in injector time or wideband voltage / air temp. i found i had little adjustment needed to the air map but the coolant map i think is a little more sensitive to your particular environment.
thats all i got for ya at the moment, post your set up
hey dude.. I just got it to fire...it idles with my foot on the pedal at about 15% ..it idles at around 1500 expected for a BP....I have a wide band four wire...but all it says is 4V...i am not sure if that is reading rich or lean?
I was on staging at first but when it started it wont rev up just BOG..so i tried BATCH and now it revs up, not very cleanly but it revs up......the smoke seems to be a lot less , but i know i am still rich....I lowered most of m fule map by about 50% but only up to 4000 rpm..
I think my MAP sensor is getting the best of me too....I thought it was a 3BAR but with this setting i am reading 15.2 PSI NOT RUNNING...? so I moved it to 1 BAR and now it reads ) 0 inhg not running....i am sure it is a 3 BAR but i dont know what to look for,....I bought this set up off a guy and got everything with it.
SETUP:
S4 block with S5NA rotors
BP
720 primaries
1600 secondaries
TO4E Garrett
E6K Haltech
RA SUPER SEALS
My biggest problem is I am using XP and I can go online and tune the MAP in there , but I cant take a downloaded MAP and install it on my Haltech..it goes off line when i try....I have a MAP that Brian did for me from BDC ...it is very specific for this application but i cant open it or upload it for anything....
Anything you can tell me again will help..and you have been great help so far....I almost thought noone would chime in and offer some advice....but thank you and Fritts so far have been great...
I was on staging at first but when it started it wont rev up just BOG..so i tried BATCH and now it revs up, not very cleanly but it revs up......the smoke seems to be a lot less , but i know i am still rich....I lowered most of m fule map by about 50% but only up to 4000 rpm..
I think my MAP sensor is getting the best of me too....I thought it was a 3BAR but with this setting i am reading 15.2 PSI NOT RUNNING...? so I moved it to 1 BAR and now it reads ) 0 inhg not running....i am sure it is a 3 BAR but i dont know what to look for,....I bought this set up off a guy and got everything with it.
SETUP:
S4 block with S5NA rotors
BP
720 primaries
1600 secondaries
TO4E Garrett
E6K Haltech
RA SUPER SEALS
My biggest problem is I am using XP and I can go online and tune the MAP in there , but I cant take a downloaded MAP and install it on my Haltech..it goes off line when i try....I have a MAP that Brian did for me from BDC ...it is very specific for this application but i cant open it or upload it for anything....
Anything you can tell me again will help..and you have been great help so far....I almost thought noone would chime in and offer some advice....but thank you and Fritts so far have been great...
map sensor number reads........735-13203..i cant find this number anywhere..i tried to google it but nothing...it plastic , black and has the green and orange connector going into it..
hey Brian..good to see your on this with me...i tried to email you but didnt see any reply when last i checked..maybe last night
From all the searching I have done..it seems that XP will run DOSBOX and allow you to get online....BUT....it willl go offline as soon as you try to upload a MAP
I am on COMM1 and everything is working as far as I can tell.....going on line is easy..
just uploading your MAP is where I am stuck..
As i said before I have a base map on my e6k which is what I have been playing with and saving it...if i can find some images or numbers that I can punch in to my map I think i can get the car running like it should....
any one have any ideas on the MAP SENSOR i posted above?????
From all the searching I have done..it seems that XP will run DOSBOX and allow you to get online....BUT....it willl go offline as soon as you try to upload a MAP
I am on COMM1 and everything is working as far as I can tell.....going on line is easy..
just uploading your MAP is where I am stuck..
As i said before I have a base map on my e6k which is what I have been playing with and saving it...if i can find some images or numbers that I can punch in to my map I think i can get the car running like it should....
any one have any ideas on the MAP SENSOR i posted above?????
just to make sure i understand correctly
you can not view the map you were sent with halwin? no upload or magic, can u open and view it? seems odd that there would be more then one type of file that will load an e6k, and if it will load an e6k it oughta be viewable offline with halwin, halwin even gives u the option of choosing e6k e6x or f10(or something close to it). if u can open the map with halwin you can input the values one by one via dosbox to your car which is a pain vs loading the map in one shot but its a solution.
can u post a link to the the map you are tryin to read?
the 1600s i think are what is killing you, until you get your injectors working properly those monsters are gonna flood you out. if they are firing with your primaries at idle you are gonna be seeing 300% more fuel then you want with stock primaries, u are runnin 720s, thats a heap of fuel. for reference i run about 2.3ms on 550cc primaries at 1000rpm get an afr of about 12 on an s4 tII exhaust ported an modded a bit. 2.3 ms with 2320cc (your prim an sec at the same time) is almost 5 times the fuel, i cant see a bridge port usin THAT much more. cut it in half and at 1.15ms ur still likely super rich (1160cc ish) by double a stock setup, half that again an im not sure you can even properly fire the injectors at 0.57ms, but you will finally be looking at nearly stock delivery.
are you able to datalog with your software? if you can datalog check your injector time for your primary an secondaries see if they arent the same.
to the original map sender, is the map you sent tuned for staged injection or sequential or what? pretty sure staged is what you want but ive never played with a BP
edit : lookin at my halwin software i could be only half right, i know you can load the fuel/ign maps from e6k maps into halwin but possibly not the actual setup information
you can not view the map you were sent with halwin? no upload or magic, can u open and view it? seems odd that there would be more then one type of file that will load an e6k, and if it will load an e6k it oughta be viewable offline with halwin, halwin even gives u the option of choosing e6k e6x or f10(or something close to it). if u can open the map with halwin you can input the values one by one via dosbox to your car which is a pain vs loading the map in one shot but its a solution.
can u post a link to the the map you are tryin to read?
the 1600s i think are what is killing you, until you get your injectors working properly those monsters are gonna flood you out. if they are firing with your primaries at idle you are gonna be seeing 300% more fuel then you want with stock primaries, u are runnin 720s, thats a heap of fuel. for reference i run about 2.3ms on 550cc primaries at 1000rpm get an afr of about 12 on an s4 tII exhaust ported an modded a bit. 2.3 ms with 2320cc (your prim an sec at the same time) is almost 5 times the fuel, i cant see a bridge port usin THAT much more. cut it in half and at 1.15ms ur still likely super rich (1160cc ish) by double a stock setup, half that again an im not sure you can even properly fire the injectors at 0.57ms, but you will finally be looking at nearly stock delivery.
are you able to datalog with your software? if you can datalog check your injector time for your primary an secondaries see if they arent the same.
to the original map sender, is the map you sent tuned for staged injection or sequential or what? pretty sure staged is what you want but ive never played with a BP
edit : lookin at my halwin software i could be only half right, i know you can load the fuel/ign maps from e6k maps into halwin but possibly not the actual setup information
Getting upset about what? There's nothing for me to get upset about. I think it's just a matter of figuring out the connection issue (probably need an older laptop quite honestly if you can't get DOSBox to work) and then load the map in. It'll work.
B
B
nothin at all to be upset about looks like a good map to me. mind if i send u my specs an maybe a log or two see what you can come up with?
i agree the best thing to do is figure out your connection issue, but as i had similar problems myself and had to buy a laptop specifically to program my ecu i feel ur hurt and have found your solution, albeit ghetto
first go an download the e6k software found here
http://www.haltech.com/index.php?opt...site&Itemid=65
i was able to open that map offline with that program and view all the information, setup and maps. so if u cant get your connection issue resolved you are going to have to go thru that file page by page and enter each value into your ECU to match. i dont envy you. itll be a pain in the *** but as far as worst case scenario you will be able to copy that program to your car.
if you are going to do this i recommend being as careful as possible. pay attention, you dont have to mess up by much to **** up really bad, enter the values exactly. when you are done entering your main fuel an ign maps look at the 3d graph in halwin (provided you can save maps from your car to your computer, is your connection issue one way or two way?) and make sure there are no spikes or dips. if u are lucky enough to only have a one way issue and can save the map from your car to your computer then do so and use halwin to proofread it all, its a much easier layout to look at and those 3d graphs make any missed decimal points obvious. double check everything before you try to start your car, and remember to rezero your timing.
god i hope i find work soon
i cant afford to mess with my own car so im playin with other peoples vicariously thru the internet
i agree the best thing to do is figure out your connection issue, but as i had similar problems myself and had to buy a laptop specifically to program my ecu i feel ur hurt and have found your solution, albeit ghetto
first go an download the e6k software found here
http://www.haltech.com/index.php?opt...site&Itemid=65
i was able to open that map offline with that program and view all the information, setup and maps. so if u cant get your connection issue resolved you are going to have to go thru that file page by page and enter each value into your ECU to match. i dont envy you. itll be a pain in the *** but as far as worst case scenario you will be able to copy that program to your car.
if you are going to do this i recommend being as careful as possible. pay attention, you dont have to mess up by much to **** up really bad, enter the values exactly. when you are done entering your main fuel an ign maps look at the 3d graph in halwin (provided you can save maps from your car to your computer, is your connection issue one way or two way?) and make sure there are no spikes or dips. if u are lucky enough to only have a one way issue and can save the map from your car to your computer then do so and use halwin to proofread it all, its a much easier layout to look at and those 3d graphs make any missed decimal points obvious. double check everything before you try to start your car, and remember to rezero your timing.
god i hope i find work soon
i cant afford to mess with my own car so im playin with other peoples vicariously thru the internet
I still think he ought to just figure out the connection issue instead of re-doing the entirety of the map. That's way too tedious and he could probably solve the map loading problem in less time.
B
B
i agree, but it cost me $450 for a laptop i didnt want or need to get around my connection issues (cant use internal 2.5 bar map sensor on E6X with dos software) i spose i could have gotten a different MAP sensor but at the same time if i could have gone ghetto style like this it woulda saved me money i didnt have at the time. its not ideal, its just a solution
i aggree with you both..TALKSICK and spent most of today on yahoo going throught his thing..i was able to upload your map(brian) in offline, and even save it in offline, but when it came to going online it just went into recconnnect mode...i have a map on my ecu right now that does start the car..maybe entering in the numbers fomr your map (brian) will be the solution for now, but i think it is a USB issue ..I ahve XP and dont know if that makes any dofference? but it seems it does...now i am thinking of selling this laptop and buying anew one for home and a cheapo one for this car...but time is against me i have one week again for holidays and then i have 6 weeks of dyno time to make available..need to resolve now..of course i say 6 weeks it really willl only be a week or two..
hey e02am...........let me see what i can do ..i might take you up on that offer....do you have the cable to hook up to halteck with that too?
if i can sell my Dell i would jump on that right now....
if i can sell my Dell i would jump on that right now....


