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iTrader: (5)

My trailing coil is causing detonation. Cant figure out why.

Ive checked wiring but here is something that concerns me.

Haltech says Ignition #2 to Pink, and Ignition #3 to White. This is how i have it setup currently.



This contradicts what is in the wiring setup in the haltech section, which i believe was created by Claudio.





Also I noticed my wiring is backwards from Claudios diagram. My Brown/Yellow wire goes to white, and my Blue/yellow wire goes to pink.





Regardless I have Ign 2 going to Pink and Ign 3 going to white.

Heres my Timing maps. They're just the Haltech base maps. I understand that my Main Timing is super retarded.






Any ideas?

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iTrader: (5)

Continuing from other thread.


Nope. Wiring is correct. Base timing dead nuts at -5btdc. 200 mile bur9eq-ps all around. 500 miles on new msd 8mm wires. Stock tii coils.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

This is correct. The incorrect document has been discussed before on here and should be taken down.

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iTrader: (5)

Figured that. When I had it connected the other way, my tach was super bouncey. I felt it most related the toggle signal. I switched them around and it smoothed out.

Anyways, that proves my wiring is correct.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

haltech cannot be trusted, you must verify with a timing light, at several rpm points too

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iTrader: (5)

I've verified my leading, but not my trailing. I suppose I'll try that.

Would i accomplish this by setting the split map to 15 across the board, and lock main timing to -5?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Post your map?

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iTrader: (5)

Only thing that has changed on this map is the generic duty map for open loop boost.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

I didn't see anything wrong. Wanted to check ignition mode mainly. There is a gotcha with the staging setup where you need to have the pressure scale set to kPa to make sure you get the staging load set correctly. I corrected that and have attached the map below.

Below is the pinout for the coils. This is referenced as looking into the back of the connector on the harness side, as if you were looking into the terminal seals. The locking tabs are at the top.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

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iTrader: (5)

Thanks for doing that C.


Saw my tuner today. He advanced the trigger angle 10 degrees, from 65 to 75, and it fixed the problem. Not sure if this is a common practice, but it worked.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

It's not common practice to randomly adjust the trigger angle. That value has to be set by locking the timing and using the trigger angle to zero out the timing. Once it's set, unless the CAS is moved for some reason, it should never need to be changed. There is one right value for your engine and everything else is wrong. Essentially, what he did was advance the timing across the board by 10°. Given the conservative nature of the base map he was using, that, in and of itself, isn't a bad idea. But his means of doing it are wrong. Sounds like you need a new tuner.

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iTrader: (5)

Yeah I understand what he did. The first thing I asked him is "won't my timing marks be off now?" He told me it would but it's easier to change this value than the whole timing map.

Another thing that concerns me is he has my afrs over 12.5 at full load. From my understanding, I should be between 10 and 11.5. He told me it's not too lean.

This guy is a good dude, but yeah, maybe I might need a new tuner.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Your AFRs at WOT on boost (what boost level?) are mid to high 12s?

Time to fire your tuner.

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iTrader: (5)

Yep. 10psi.