cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

so my car still wont start. i have double checked wiring, the fuel injectors are getting a signal, injectors are new, fuel pressure is fine (but possibly to high), has spark, timing is dead on (timed with engine at TDC, which turned out to be the same as the pulley mark anyway). so now it TRIES to start, almost starts itself up, then dies. i actually got it to run for a second or two and it died. IT was almost starting with my foot all the way off of the gas. if i give it gas it doesnt try to start. this kind of points me to a fuel problem, but i checked with a noid light and they were getting a signal, and i replaced the injector connectors with new ones. the only thing that seems a bit odd is the RPM display on the laptop, when i crank it, it says about 250 RPM which seems lower than it actually is cranking, but i am not sure on that. any ideas???? i am going to miss tuning if i dont get this thing running

bryant

have you recalibrated tps??

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

yes, the only problem is i have an S4 TPS so it goes WFO after like 1/3 throttle. but i would think it should STILL at least freaking run.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

It "barely does", using the S4 TPS IS a problem, so either swap it for an S5, or get the Haltech one.

As far as the car not starting, 1st, did you actually zero in the timing? what base map did you use, what's your injector flow, how much fuel pressure are you running, did you check the spark plugs to see if they were fowelled or dry, are they new plugs?

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

the guy with this haltech installed before me ran the s4 tps... will the s5 one bolt onto the s4 TB? i used several hitman maps, some of your maps, and some other maps. injector at start was around 15ms on most maps. spark plugs are wet but not very wet at all. fuel pressure is unknown, but i have a fuel system/regulator/gauge on the way. brand new plugs. i stabbed the CAS and everything, and restabbed it by finding TDS, etc etc, and it was the same as the pulley mark. i was under the impression that completly zeroing the timing was with it idling and adding or subtracting from the initial 65 setting. problem is, it WILL not start and idle.

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

if i disable fuel it doesnt even try to start. it seems like a fuel problem, but i can smell gas out of the exhaust, and the plugs are minorly wet.i can almost garuntee the fuel pressure is high becuase i have an aftermarket pump, and stock regulator.(for now).

RETed

15ms on the cranking map?
That's way too low...

It sounds like it needs more fuel on the cranking map.
If you get your cranking map good, it should sound like an FC with a disconnected AFM...crank, fire, VROOM, then die within 2 seconds.
If it's struggling to fire, then add more fuel.
If the cranking starts to sound better, just keep adding more fuel.
If you get to the point you added too much fuel, the engine will just crank, crank, crank at the same steady tone.


-Ted

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

what should it be "about" inj. ms while cranking?
*note*
i just got my intercooler,piping,AN fittings,regulator,lines, fuel pressure gauge in!!!!!! yay its some sexy stuff

RETed

Crap, I don't remember base numbers, but I would recommend just jacking it up.
I usually jump in 10ms increments, since the rotary engine can ingest a lot of fuel.

I dunno how cold it is over there (remember, I'm in Hawaii), but I think on cold nights (MAYBE 60F here), I think the cranking fuel is something like 60ms?



-Ted

bryant

god man i wanna live in Hawaii!!! 60 is cold there?

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

nights here are probably getting down to 40. it is starting to warm up during the day now and gets to 60-70.

bryant

i was in ohio about a month ago during-right after that blizzard they had.
first night it was 1 degree without the 20 mile a hour wind!

but im sure with you in colorado youve been there and done that.

afgmoto1978

iTrader: (6)

I have the same issue, but it happened in the middle of dyno tuning. Pulled to 6K went back to idle and it died. Hasn't started since, I have the same conditions you have. Except the plugs are wet as hell. Idle and crank have been set correctly though.

RETed

Yep, when it starts to head down to 60F, people start complaining.
It's rare when the temps crack the 50's - in fact, the record here is 53F on this island of Oahu.

Just to keep this Haltech related , the WATER TEMP correction map takes a huge jump right around 60F to 70F or so...at least in the maps I've messed with.
It's not a straight, linear progression.


-Ted

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

it takes a jump up around there? that little arrow above the bar is current parameter correct? like on coolant map, the one with the arrow is showing you that bar is the current temp?

ryderX

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: found a problem: So i was checking the timing while cranking becuase my car wont start, and the timing for each plug wire was almost exactly the same. what the hell would cause this? it was also a good inch or two on the right side of the yellow mark on the pulley (the opposite side it is supposed to be on). the timing of the CAS is set dead on so i know the "mechanical" timing is right. This is with a Haltech e6k and a 6al ignition box. would radio interference cause this? i did a battery relocation and the + cable is right in the general area of the ignition coils/plug wires.

RETed

What do you mean "set dead on"?
You'll need to zero-out the ignition timing on all Haltech installs.
Don't assume someone's ignition timing settings is identical to yours.

If the (yellow) mark is appearing on the left of the pin with the timing gun, you're running too advanced - that's not zero'd out.

Both trailings should not be firing at the same time, period.


-Ted

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

set dead on as far as mechanical timing goes with the CAS stabbing. it seems ALL of the plugs are firing at the same time but i do not see how that is possible. no matter where i put the spark plug wires it does the same thing (in the wrong places and in the right spots) its weird. i dont know whether i should be looking into wiring or the haltech itself which i doubt is bad