Here is the problem.
Engine failed so I replaced the engine.Same stuff on it as before.
S5 TII engine,PS 1000. w 1000/2000 injectors,FFE trigger. Garrett T04s.FD TB and TPS.

Now,the engine fails to start as it is getting fuel like crazy.I mean soaked plugs after one 15 second roll over.
I am wondering if this is due to the weather being colder?.When the engine was tuned it was summer time and the car always started no problem.
With it being 0 Degrees C here I am wondering if the ECU is trying to give the engine more fuel as it sees that it is colder outside.Therefore flooding it out.
Can I test this Theory by disconnecting any sensor?.like coolant sensor so that the ECU will default and maybe allow the car to start?

Any suggestions are welcomed..even "just forget it and go for a beer"..lol..I'd love to!

 

Me ..and My engine.. have way too much GAS...!!
Help!

 

Gonna try to lower the fuel pressure to 35psi and clean the plugs(again).

any input is appreciated guys.I'm pullin hair out on this.

 

Is there spark?
Is the spark properly timed/ECU synched?
Is there compression?
It's possible the coolant temp correction is heavily skewed at such low temps. What values are you seeing for coolant temp and air temp correction?
You can always use the overall trim to pull fuel to easily test your theory and see if you can get it to fire.

 

I pulled one lead and saw spark so I assume that if the engines were identical series and the parts on the old one are now on the new engine that all parts should just plug and play.

I replaced the FFE trigger in the same position as it should be.
So It should be getting the spark at the appropriate time,correct?

Compression is there.
Fuel is obviously there.

 

try a pushstart? how did engine fail?

 

Push start a car with a fiberglass bumper in the snow???
...NO.
old engine had a compressed corner seal.No debris went through the turbo.it Was thoroughly checked.

Question: is the pressure on the fuel regulator Gauge supposed to remain constant?,as my system seems to prime at key on,but I can see it fall.Then again I got lots of fuel.

I'm trying to get out to deflood the engine,..again (disconnect FFE trigger and roll over,then oil..roll over..put back trigger connector).
Then I'll try Starting fluid.

Sucks I am alone on this venture and getting IN and out of the car is real hairy,as the room is so cramped.
If the car Bursts into flames then I may go with it!.I think I'll carry a knife so I can cut the portable garage if needed!!!

 

fuel pressure should be fairly constant. pump will prime for a second or so when you turn the key, then turn back on when it senses RPM via trigger sensors.

like chris mentioned, check all your sensor readings for reasonable values, if coolant temp is unplugged, the fuel map will be stuck at -40F deg i believe, which would throw the correction value way off

Im my experience some new rebuilds do not have enough compression for the starter to get it running. by "pushstart" i meant get it started by pulling by rope via another vehicle. if it is seriously flooded, a pushstart will fix it also

 

JDM engines have reverse flow fuel systems to the US cars .. the regulator is on the opposite rails

be sure your regulator is on the RETURN line

corrections page data will show you what is at play,, and how much..
else you could try using the old coolant sensor , plugged in and placed in luke warm water

else i suspect you may have an injector that requires a clean

PS
disconnect the fuse for the coils when pumping the flood out... as some ecus will fire the ( saturated ) coils when you release the key , despite seeing no CAS signal
( fire risk )

 

Ok..I do not have a CAS,I have a trigger wheel.

Jdm engine?.
Doesn't apply as the whole fuel system is aftermarket and routed the same way as before.Parallel rail feed then out to FPR/regulator.

I can't tow this car anywhere as I am in a Trailer park and it's Dicey enough as I am working directly across from the Manager who is not happy I work on cars.(in Park rules and regulations).

I'm trying to start this thing while he is either "looking the other way" or at his other job!

 

CHRIS (lms-efi).

Does the Haltech subharness feed 12 volts to the AEM coils by the YELLOW Wire?.
PIN E of the AEM 1A's:..should it have 12 volts with key ON?

***I'll know more about what the car is doing when I get the laptop connected to the Haltech.

IF it is a TEMP issue for start up,how do I change that..without screwing up the rest of the map?.
( I hate being "amatuer" at this stuff.I need a class.)

 

Did you zero the timing with a timing light?

 

That's the thing that is puzzling me.
I really shouldn't have to touch anything if the engines were the same and all I did was replace the keg.
The FFE Trigger goes onto the pulley one specific way(the funky bolt pattern) so everything there should align and be set already..
The fuel is the same.
The ECU hasn't been altered.
All parts are off the old engine that had internal failure( bad seal) so this leaves me to believe that It is a "map thing" due to being colder that what the car was tuned for ...or something is not getting Voltage.

I got 4.96 at the TPS when I checked that,just to see if I had any sensors getting a voltage reference.
That is about how far I got on that.

If you want me to "zero the timing" then I have to get instructions on HOW to do that as I am not proficient at this.
Sort of a real treat to figure out how to get the engine to roll over and at the same time hold a timing light and read it,while alone.
I can do it,but it will take a little wire and some Effort..lol!
My Tuner is 450 km away...and a couple bucks away.

 

if you are using a trigger wheel then timing should be fine if not close enough, as long as you are still using same setting as before whenit ran

in the future what you can do is set the default value for coolant and air temp values with sensor unplugged to something reasonable so that you can limp home if one fails

you can test the map sensor, google the voltage it should read at 0psi, it will depend on what rating in bar it is, and backprobe it or test off teh car with 5V supply

 

Yes. The red/yellow wire from the Haltech should have 12V with the key on. That is pin E on the coils.

With the FFE wheel, trigger angle should be 90*. If it's there, you'll be close enough to start it for sure.

 

Thanks Chris.

It's raining..of course,here..(just another bonus to this task).
I'll check it all out,hopefully today and update.

 

Update: found a 15 amp fuse on the Haltech was blown...Replaced that.

Thought: how can I use a timing gun IF the coils do not fire?..(ya,thought so.)

Tried starting it again after the fuse was replaced and it flooded again.
Doesn't even try to start,just rolls over and that's that.

I'll keep on looking into it though,and keep the suggestions coming guys.It could be something simple that I missed.
Cheers and thanks.STYX.

 

69, What was the 15amp fuse on the haltech for? Was it for the ignition coils? You might have a short circuit somewhere.

 

I think it was and is related,and I am gonna dig into that more today..or at least when it gets more light out..lol.
I have the wiring hidden inside the dash,..stupid me.So I will undo the fuse and relay brackets I made up and take a good look at everything.

It may look all beautiful outside the dash as you can't see any Haltech stuff visible,BUT when you have to get to it..FARK!
My thought was "hey,can't see it,can't steal it",and "if it's working,you won't have to ever touch it"..
(the only thing visible when it is assembled is the USB cable,running through a hole in the glove box,so you can tune.)

 

OK, You have a replacement engine. Was it running with the replacement engine before, and now it won't start.

If so, checking all the stuff previously mentioned is good.

But if it was running and you put in a replacement engine and now it won't start, then the first thing I would check is the compression.

The engine management is programmed to inject a certain amount of fuel with the assumption that it is pumping a certain amount of air. If something is wrong mechanically that affect the engines ability to pump air the ECU doesn't know that and still injects the programmed amount of fuel. Possibly resulting in a flood.

If the compression is low, pull the plugs disable the injectors or fuel pump hold the throttle wide open and crank it for about 10 seconds. then squirt some motor oil into the spark plug holes and crank it another 10 or 15 seconds.

Put the plugs back in, re-enable the fuel system and try to start it again.

If it got flooded real bad you may have to do this just to get it to start anyhow.

One other thing, is it possible you got the injectors/harness switched so that you are trying to start it with the secondary injectors?

Victor

 

Victor.
I know the drill enough to know the engine,how to deflood,check compression.This is a Fresh replacement with verified compression.(personally tested it before I bought it..10 hour drive to get this bastard..)
The old swap ran 6 years on the same engine.
2 years on the Haltech.

Picture taking the engine out,putting all the **** onto a new identical keg and dropping it back in,hooking up all the wires and trying to start it.Basically that is what was done.
Why I had a blown fuse is beyond me when I had the battery disconnected since November.
Battery is the 1st thing I disconnect when working on ANY wiring(no matter what) in or on the car.

If it ain't rain,now it is SNOW...Seriously?..SNOW?....holy frakkk..
I think GOD owns a Rotary too.

 

You didn't damage one of the temp sensor connections or forget to connect one, did you? Do you have valid readings for air temp and coolant temp?

 

I was able to get the laptop on the car and I got readings on coolant that corresponded to the atmosphere,so that to me tells me it is working.
The Trigger counts so that is working.

I tried to set the resolution in my Laptop last night( hence new thread) and LO and Behold..

FFFFFFTTTTT...Wtf>?...("no Operating system found".)..
so now I got a Dead laptop.,

Thank God this one works for a 1/2 hour..

 

The front hub and pulley from NA and turboII are different. 10deg off +/-
My trigger angle is 78 deg. ( FFE wheel ) Mistakenly installed a NA hub and pulley.
The FFE trigger wheel will fit both reason the one mounting hole being enlarged.
Just a thought, you never know what your new motor has.

 

This is crazy, you and I have the same problem, except i can get my car running but it is dumping to much fuel i thought a coolant seal had leaked! I am in Saskatchewan so it snowed here too.
At first I thought I had too much fuel because secondaries plugged into primaries, but not the case. Just like you, compression good, my a/f gauge reads 10.0!!! engine can barely keep from being choked out. If any one figures this out please let me know. I also have haltech, but an old one.