Kalle

Please help me confirm which diagram that is correct. Some say -´s should be on top and some say it´s the other way.

I have the E6X haltech.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

according to the fsm, the neg sides are on top. the drawing i linked to is correct except for the polarity shown in the picture, but the wiring is correct

Kalle

I dont get it. Doesnt the +/- matter as long as the NE/G connectors is at the right sensor?

The diagram says

Red - NE-
Yellow - NE+
Green - G+
Blue - G-

If the negative´s goes on top, the wiring diagram should be wrong?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

.

Kalle

And just to make things perfectly clear, this equals Negative on top ?

That is how my CAS is wired right now. Any ideas on what causes my timing to line up at ~74 BTDC ?

Tooth offset 5
Locked at -5 (negative 5)

Thanks

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Yes. The K diagram is correct.

As far as trigger angle, the FD timing mark is at -20. If your locking the timing at -5 and shooting the mark, you're 20 degrees out.

Kalle

How do i check the timing then if not looking at the marks? What should the timing be when "zeroing"?

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

lock the timing to -20 and hold the throttle open if it wont idle. then check if it lines up on the mark

Kalle

I cant lock my timing to -20 degrees (negative 20 degrees) max value is -5 degrees

Am I misunderstanding this? Should i write 20 instead of -20 in the timing lock?

E6X using Halwin 1.26!

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

You are understanding things correctly. You would enter -20 for the FD, if the ECU would allow you.

With the E8/11 and Platinum ECUs then best way to setup an FD is to enter a leading value of 10 and a split of 30. The leading will then fire at 10 BTDC and the trailing at 20 ATDC. You would then zero the timing using T1. The leading timing of 10 BTDC ensures the engine will run reasonably well without creating a ton of exhaust heat. This allows you to do a dynamic check of timing through the whole rev range to zero out any drift.

For the E6K/X here is the Pro Tip of the day. The FD trigger wheel just happens to be right at 360 mm in circumference. So it's very easy to add timing marks to the wheel with a reasonable degree of accuracy. I cut a piece of masking tape exactly 30 mm long and attach it to the trigger wheel. One end at the factory 20 ATDC center mark and the tape running from that mark to the right as you're facing engine from the front of the car. Use a Sharpie or similar to make a mark at the end of the tape. Remove the tape. You now have a 10 BTDC mark. Much easier to keep the engine running with the timing locked at 10 BTDC than any ATDC value. It's also much easier on the engine itself.

Kalle

Thanks C.Ludwig! I used your tip and changed the lock to 10BTDC.

At 67 degrees BTDC it now lines up good. I´ve checked at 1000rpm and 2000rpm.

It ran very lean on my basemap which had very low injection times, so I changed to a map for 550cc primarys and it seems to be a better basemap for my setup. AFR is around 11 at 1000rpm and at around 13 at 2000rpm.

Now i need to get a cooling fan on and do some fuel mapping!

Video:



BTW, you hear the injectors clicking pretty loud. Is it normal?