boost_its_what_for_dinner

1. i got the s5 tps and tb but theres only three wires to hook it up to the haltech what to do?

2. i need some clarification about the spare a/d and the trim?? what is it?

3. what is the road speed and do i need to use it?

4. the aux. in what are the most common uses for it?

5. ill be using th aem wb02 and im trying to figure out which wire to hook it to so it will display the afr on the laptop?

6. i know some of this ?s are retarded but im not real good with looking at wire diagrams even though i can understand them but the way the word **** "no coprende" thx to whomever takes the time to help... more questions below


7. now im asking alot of these questions because these wires were cut off and some were tucked back into a electrical tape tube... but things like the trigger input and ignition output and idle speed motor ?

trigger input i guess is were the CAS hooks up to right?
ignition output ??? idk but it was tucked back so...
idle speed motor? wtf but it was also tucked back?

i may have a few more but im going to get back to sorting it all out and labeling **** so it will be a straight forward install

thx again for helping out my noobsauce *** but i just need plain terms not churched up lingo for basic stuff

boost_its_what_for_dinner

also i got the s5 tb and im wondering about what all i can strip of it?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

First off - what ECU is this?

1. Search aroudn thats been covered - or buy the Haltech TPS.

2. Spare A/D can be hooked up to the wideband's 0-5v output for logging. Trim, don't worry about. You can buy a trim **** and program it to control a number of functions from boost control, to fuel or ignition trim but its not a necessary funciton.

3. Road speed means what it says - road speed. You don't need it though. If you want to hook it up (presuming this is an FC?) you can hook it up to the road speed output off the back of the gauge cluster. Green wire red stripe IIRC.

4. Lots of stuff.

5. See #2.

6. What?

7. a)Trigger is for the CAS yes. Go to hitman's website or search on here for wire colour's and their functions.
b) See hitman's site.
c) see hitman's site or read the Haltech manual which is also available on their website.

As far as what to strip it all depends on what you want to retain, but most of everything can be stripped off and the 2ndary butterflies removed.

BDC

Joe's answered these well but here's my two cents.

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/d/7299-3/E...tes_072003.txt Use this as a reference for wiring colours. The TPS wiring is in there.

Spare A/D is for a single +5VDC input. Lots of aftermarket gauges (like EGT's and widebands) give a 5VDC output for logging. This is for when you want to log a specific device's output voltage. Trim don't bother with.

That's for logging vehicle speed. There's one wire to hookup to the stock harness but I can't remember what it is. Road speed value is 2400.

Secondary rev limiter.

That unit will probably have a 5V out for datalogging the voltage (not the AFR) but I have to warn you about that AEM unit -- it's junk. It won't display the AFR, either. The only thing that will do that is a combination of E6KU.exe and the M&W UEGO unit specifically.

Use the link I sent up there to help ya out with that.

Trigger and Ignition output you'll need. Idle Speed motor, however, you won't. There's several wires on the harness that aren't used.

Yep. All four of them.

You need IGN 1 output, IGN Bypass/Toggle, and IGN 2.

Not needed.

B

boost_its_what_for_dinner

e6x btw and thanks for all the info i never knew about hitman.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

hey brian i was wondering about the s5 tps? if you only wire up the one then why coundnt i just take it off the mount and put it on my s4 tps mount and retain my already modded tb? let me know if thats possibly before i butcher it up to make it mount but it dont look like it will be a problem.

thx lot

BDC

E6X wiring is the same as E6K.

On the TB and TPS -- Do not flip-flop the TPS's from TB to TB as the mounting is different between the two bodies even though they appear to be nearly identical.

If you're using a Series 4 TB that's already modified that you wanna keep, then ditch the TPS off of it and use the GM TPS that comes w/ the Haltech. You'll have to make a bracket for it to make it work but alot of FC owners w/ Haltechs have done this. It's not uncommon.

B

boost_its_what_for_dinner

so i cant just put the s5 tps in the s4 mount? im talking about just removing the tps from the metal jacket and putting the s5 tps in the same place and retightening the metal jacket around it?

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Hey Brian,

Remember they arent 100% identical in pin location, so a little tweaking needs to be done. Check this thread out, it explain how to use a X harness with K ECU's or K harness with X ECUs.

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2132

It will explain what to do.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

so can anyone answer me about the tps ? im using the s5 tps but i took the actual sensor out of the metal holder and put it in the s4 tps holder and hooked it up. i dont see why this wouldnt work nor why no one else has said anything about this being done?

BDC

Depends on the throttle cam that's up against the TPS. My gut says just make a bracket using the GM TPS.

B

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Guys, the S5 throttle linkage have one particular cam that allows one of the TPS to spin throughout the entire opening of the throttle, thus giving a full range measurement of the opening. All TPS, both from the S4 or S5 throttles are exactly the same sensor, the difference is the cams that allow them to do the reading, on the S4 throttle, there is no such cam so the sensor operates only as a switch, going from a low opening to full opening after it hits about 20% throttle.

Thats why you have to use the S5 throttle body mechanism.

On the S4 throttle you can easily make a Z bracket to fit the GM/Haltech TPS.

Do this:


From the HITman's site

Hope that helps.

RETed

It doesn't work cause you still need the cam actuator that's on the throttle shaft.
Basically, you can use the entire S5 TB and TPS...


-Ted

boost_its_what_for_dinner

cool thats all i needed to know but the sensors have different model numbers so i thought it would work but i also noticed the spinning action from the s5 tps. thanks for clearing that up ill just order the haltech tps

boost_its_what_for_dinner

hey one more thing about the ignition wires? i got this but

[Factory Ignitors/Coils Pairs Wiring]
- TAN coloured wires from both ignitors go to an IGN (switched) 12V+ source
(splice into ignitor/coils power source; relayed; refer to my own powering method above)
- The PINK wires go to the appropriate trigger wires from the E6x:
- Leading Ignitor (PINK) - LIGHT GREEN (IGN OUT) on E6K harness
- Trailing Ignitor (PINK) - WHITE/BLACK (AUXOUT-1) on E6K harness
- Trailing Ignitor (WHITE) - GREEN/BLACK (BYPASS) on E6K harness This Bypass lead is called the "toggle" lead. It's used by the E6K (not sure about
A or S models) for toggling between the front and rear trailing coil.
- The YELLOW lead at the trail-pack is wired to the tachometer.
(Update) - This is the yellow/green w/ red notch lead (thin gauge; perhaps 18 or 20AWG) in the CPU wiring
harness just below the trail ignitor. Since it will be cut when installing the wiring for the K, it will have
to be re-spliced. This requires that the trailing ignitor and coil pack be unbolted and lifted up for harness access.
- When I wired in the power and input leads for both factory ignitors, I re-used the factory
Mazda white connecting plugs for easy quick-disconnect. Each of those plugs houses
the TAN and PINK leads on the factory ignitors.

the bold is what im making sure is right? the trailing coil has 2 white wires from what i see and it seems to simple to just be 3 wires is that all? and can i use the tan wire for my other main ecu harness ign switched power source? also i cant seem to find the wire that i need to hook the tach to for the haltech or is that for aftermarket coils only? the harness i have had a yellow wire with it that was labeled tach but it was just loose in the harness(not connected to main harness)

holla back and thx

boost_its_what_for_dinner

may sound stupid and i pretty much know the answer is yes but before i get it... will the 9 pin cable that converts to usb still work with the haltech? i just didnt want to buy it and it not be compatible for some odd reason

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

/\ yes, just make sure you install the drivers that it came with and set the appropriate COM port in Halwin. If your unsure which COM port to use open up device manager and find it there

boost_its_what_for_dinner

thanks

boost_its_what_for_dinner

hey one thing real quick wihich wires from the fuel pump crap box resistor relay thing do i need to hook the fuel pump relay wire to i think the orange with black stripe from haltrech to what on the stock harness? actually it the other wire fopr the fuel pump not the 12volt supply