Haltech PWM outputs
#6
Well you can check for a ground signal with a regular test light but that's for electronic one n one!
If you connected the PWM output to the fans without a relay then it's more than likely burnt. Try another output.
Did you set the activation points?
If you connected the PWM output to the fans without a relay then it's more than likely burnt. Try another output.
Did you set the activation points?
#7
No i didn't connect the pwm output directly to the fans, that would be dee de dee!! lol as for trying another of the 4 pwm's, none of them worked, and yes i activated them, cycle the key and retried it tons of times and still nothing. i wonder if the previous owner fried them. how would i get this fixed? any other tests?
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#8
if you connect the normally grounded clip to positive, it will check for a ground at the other end... the test light has a magical light bulb that can be grounded from either side and still connect a B+ to the other and you have light.
i wonder if the previous owner fried them. how would i get this fixed? any other tests?
i wonder if the previous owner fried them. how would i get this fixed? any other tests?
You double check to see if the PWM outputs are pulling or switching to ground using a volt meter etc.?
Your coolant temp sensor is working right!
#10
Yeah, i actually turned the temp down to 100 on and like 80 off and still nothing. I'm gonna mess with it some more today. I'll keep checking on here for some more idea's and my progress. Hey i was wondering when it asks you to cycle the key, does it have to say "RECONNECT HALTECH" or what? You know what, i think i have a few other things to check out.
#12
Rotary Reborn!
iTrader: (3)
You cannot test the pwm or aux outputs with just the key on. Its a unreliable way for some reason with the haltech.
I've spent days troubleshooting, calling haltech, and time with people on this forum just to find out that you have to have the car running. (I was using the pwm with an aux in for my a/c and was doing my function tests with the key on but not the car running.)
I didn't think it would make a difference but it does.
I've spent days troubleshooting, calling haltech, and time with people on this forum just to find out that you have to have the car running. (I was using the pwm with an aux in for my a/c and was doing my function tests with the key on but not the car running.)
I didn't think it would make a difference but it does.
#14
You cannot test the pwm or aux outputs with just the key on. Its a unreliable way for some reason with the haltech.
I've spent days troubleshooting, calling haltech, and time with people on this forum just to find out that you have to have the car running. (I was using the pwm with an aux in for my a/c and was doing my function tests with the key on but not the car running.)
I didn't think it would make a difference but it does.
I've spent days troubleshooting, calling haltech, and time with people on this forum just to find out that you have to have the car running. (I was using the pwm with an aux in for my a/c and was doing my function tests with the key on but not the car running.)
I didn't think it would make a difference but it does.
I do so many crazy setups using various different pwm outputs and aux/spare/time inputs to operate crazy stuff and never had that problem.
#15
Rotary Reborn!
iTrader: (3)
Well that's a first for me. I always check my PWM outputs with just the ignition on. Up to last night I verified operation of the cooling fans and AC input on the Aux In and everything function perfectly with the motor not running. The only way I could see a PWM not working would be if it's a program that depends on RPM signal.
I do so many crazy setups using various different pwm outputs and aux/spare/time inputs to operate crazy stuff and never had that problem.
I do so many crazy setups using various different pwm outputs and aux/spare/time inputs to operate crazy stuff and never had that problem.
Dam you did raised a point. There is a setup for rpm in the a/c logic. I did set it to zero but I guess that is the reason why you actually have to have the car running.
I wonder if a low battery will cause issues with just the key on on the pwm circuits?
I will retract my statement that you need the car running to check the pwm. You shouldn't have too.
#18
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Dont use the exact temperature you're reading, use a lower value, the output will actually kick on with 1 degree difference, both on or off. So, if you're reading 100 Degrees, and you put 100 as on, and 95 as off, the output will turn on at 101 degrees, and off at 94.
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