I've been trying to connect my PWM Outputs to turn on my coolant fan and i can't get it to work. I checked the manual and checked the wire for a pos or neg when activated and nothing. What am i not doing?

 

The PWM outputs pull to ground. You use them to activate a relay. They will not support the amp draw of a fan on their own. When you wire the relay one side of the solenoid goes to 12V+ with key on and the other to the PWM output.

 

I have mine conected straight to a positive and then the ground going through the relay along with the pwm output.

 

I check it with a test light and i get nothing.

 

Im under the assumption that its a ground signal so a test light will give you nothing since it checks for positive. Which is why I used the relay for the ground signal.

 

Well you can check for a ground signal with a regular test light but that's for electronic one n one!
If you connected the PWM output to the fans without a relay then it's more than likely burnt. Try another output.
Did you set the activation points?

 

if you connect the normally grounded clip to positive, it will check for a ground at the other end... the test light has a magical light bulb that can be grounded from either side and still connect a B+ to the other and you have light.

No i didn't connect the pwm output directly to the fans, that would be dee de dee!! lol as for trying another of the 4 pwm's, none of them worked, and yes i activated them, cycle the key and retried it tons of times and still nothing. i wonder if the previous owner fried them. how would i get this fixed? any other tests?

 

Now that would really suck!
You double check to see if the PWM outputs are pulling or switching to ground using a volt meter etc.?
Your coolant temp sensor is working right!

 

Just making sure you did turn the temp all the way down to where its at when testing correct? Default is like 180 before it activates.

 

Yeah, i need to use a volt meter. I have one at work so ill have to wait till monday. Yeah my coolant temp sensor is working fine lol.


Yeah, i actually turned the temp down to 100 on and like 80 off and still nothing. I'm gonna mess with it some more today. I'll keep checking on here for some more idea's and my progress. Hey i was wondering when it asks you to cycle the key, does it have to say "RECONNECT HALTECH" or what? You know what, i think i have a few other things to check out.

 

can u test a PWM with just KEY ON?

 

You cannot test the pwm or aux outputs with just the key on. Its a unreliable way for some reason with the haltech.

I've spent days troubleshooting, calling haltech, and time with people on this forum just to find out that you have to have the car running. (I was using the pwm with an aux in for my a/c and was doing my function tests with the key on but not the car running.)

I didn't think it would make a difference but it does.

 

Mine worked while just the key on. As long as the temp was within that temp it was at.

 

Well that's a first for me. I always check my PWM outputs with just the ignition on. Up to last night I verified operation of the cooling fans and AC input on the Aux In and everything function perfectly with the motor not running. The only way I could see a PWM not working would be if it's a program that depends on RPM signal.
I do so many crazy setups using various different pwm outputs and aux/spare/time inputs to operate crazy stuff and never had that problem.

 

Dam you did raised a point. There is a setup for rpm in the a/c logic. I did set it to zero but I guess that is the reason why you actually have to have the car running.

I wonder if a low battery will cause issues with just the key on on the pwm circuits?

I will retract my statement that you need the car running to check the pwm. You shouldn't have too.

 

ive tried withe the cooling fans (coolant temp sensor read 100*f) so it put it to 100 and nothing, hopefully i have the wrong pwm. ima try the others today

 

well i got it to worked, oneof the pins on the relay was sticking out,not making contact. i pushed it back in and VOLA it came on. :0

 

Dont use the exact temperature you're reading, use a lower value, the output will actually kick on with 1 degree difference, both on or off. So, if you're reading 100 Degrees, and you put 100 as on, and 95 as off, the output will turn on at 101 degrees, and off at 94.