heater / AC fan inside the unit behind the dash? I wouldn't have thought that would have been impacted? - still shouldn't be that hard to find out what signal its looking for. Do you have the stock wiring diagrams?

As for Starter it should be a wire from the column (ignition barrel) straight to the starter solenoid. again shouldn't have been impacted by the change over.

 

Ya, right behind the dash. There were three clips that are empty now without the stock engine harness. I still have the stock one. Just didn't wanna put it back in lol. The key ignition switch is all reconnected and is acting like there's no power to it now. I believe I saw something in the FSM that basically read that the key switch ran through that engine harness. I'll have another look.

 

unless I'm reading this wrong it looks like the blower motor is tied in with the starter. So hopefully I can figure out what I missed with the blower. I feel like that's where something amiss.

 

No, thats how I read it as well.

Whats at the top of that page? - can you take a full size shot

 

Here's the full

Now why the hell Mazda tied the starter to the blower is beyond me lol

 

Ah see its not, its giving a single to the blower, theft deterent, emission control + Cruise control. It all goes through the main engine Relay.

Go test to see if the relay is clickon one when you turn from OFF to ACC.

I dont know what the interlock switch is.

I rewired mine and bypassed the main engine relay but thats as I did a full strip. keep it if you can.

 

Dead silence minus the annoying and never ending key in beep beep. I'll have to do more later. Gotta be up early as hell tomorrow for this. Thanks for the help though!

 

time to check the interlock switch - you may have just pulled the plug end out by accident.

https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...witch-1048669/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ystery-896013/

 

Interlock switch is already jumpered. Smdh.. should've bought a 240 10 years ago. Lol. Or just kept the rtek. This is a pain in the ***. I really had the childish thought that this would have been simple. I'm no wiring guru by no means and I think I should've been. Damn thing was a mistake.

Surgery went well, got my chest port out. Trying to get this going as much as I can

 

OK. So here's what does work.
four ways, running lights, head lights

Blinkers, and wipers don't work. I removed the wires from the engine harness that control wipers and reconnected and it's a no go. I saw somewhere on the club that this was necessary to get the wipers working correctly again.

​​​

 

yeah I bypassed the main relay and just ran a new trigger from the barrel straight to the started.

But what till Chris chimes in, I'm sure his done a few few and its something simple.

 

Would you be willing to draw a kindergarten style picture of what your talking about for that starter?
I might end up having to do that.
I just don't understand what the issue was. Should I have left the old engine harness?? Sorry for being poopy butt. I really do appreciate everyone's help/advice.
​​​​​​I imagine it will be something small dumb and instantly make me mad when I find it lol

Pictures coming up with questions.

 

Those four plug arent connected when the dash goes up. Should they be? I don't have anything that goes to them..

 

I haven't had time to look at this properly. But removing the emissions harness should not cause this issue. You've taken too much out.

 

So that's my question. How much of the engine harness was supposed to be removed? Or should I have left the entire thing?
​​​​​​ I took out all of the engine (passenger side) harness, only putting back the wipers bit.
The ignition (driver side) harness still remains. Only modified at the coils.

 

Well I had a spare harness and out that back in next to the haltech harness. I plugged everything under the dash that has a spot minus the ECU.
as far as under the hood, I plugged the wipers in and bolted the harness ground back down.
Putting the dash back in now. We'll see I guess..

 

Dash is back in. Gauges and shroud installed and connected. Spare harness is in and connected where it can be, minus stock ECU and sensor locations and harness ground has been grounded.
haltech ECU gets power and connects to laptop. fuel pump get power and laptop is reading coolant temp and TPS %.
headlights, four ways, running lights, and interior lights all work.

Still no starter blinkers or wipers.

 

Are you getting power at the ignition barrel when put to start?

 

So heater/cool selector still isn't working. However, engine started, blinker work, and wipers work...
tge only other thing I messed with was that white blinker return switch behind the steering wheel.
I removed it and forgot about it. I was looking at the wires on the steering column and it hit me. I didn't put that back. I thought SURELY that isn't causing all this issue. YUP sure f**king was lol

... When I said starts I meant cranks. Not sure yet. But I think it's not getting spark.

To everyone give help, thanks so much for the effort and patients. To anyone ripping out the dash, don't f**k with the little white thing behind the steering wheel. It'll make your hair fall out

 

"like"

 

Getting no spark . Here's how I have it wired:
"Flying lead" to stock plug to coil
Leading:
Yellow/black to black/yellow to tan..ish maybe pink
Red to green to red..Ish maybe pink
Black x2 to ground

 

Please excuse the ugly. This is temporary until I get this wired right.

Trail two plug Trail four plug Leading two plug

This is all from flying lead.
Looked at one diagram that was posted that showed a yellow/brown connects to the four...
But I don't have a yellow/brown??

 

Leading connector is backward. The black/yellow is 12V switched. We have all the connector kits available.


https://lms-efi-llc.myshopify.com/co...tor-set-spec-a

https://lms-efi-llc.myshopify.com/co...tor-set-spec-b

 

Crap! I'll switch them ASAP!
​​​​​Would that cause training to not spark too?
​​​​​ill have to ask the financial manager (wife) to see if we are able to get those! I didn't even know connectors like that were still around.

​​​​​

 

Saw somewhere that the ECU needed to read kpa and not psi in order to spark?? Or did I read that wrong?

Swapped the wires and still no go