The kpa shouldnt not let it start.

How do you know youre not getting spark? With the ECU powered on, check youre receiving 12v on all the coil power inputs.

 

OK, good to know. I was skimming over some posts and read about a "gotcha" referring to the kpa

I pulled a wire off a spark plug and stuck a screwdriver in it and put it near a ground, saw nothing. Didn't even hear a spark pop from either the lead or trail.

I went back through ecu main set up and fixed some minor issues. Trigger angle was off 5°

For trigger type, I need to be using multitooth 24 and 2 right? Couldn't find anything that said different.

 

FC and Stock Coils
Trigger Angle 65
Tooth Offset 11
Spark Mode Distributor
Constant Charge
Falling Edge
4.5mS
Internal Reluctor
Trigger Edge Falling
Home Edge Falling
Trigger/Home Filter 1
Trigger Gain 2-3
Home Gain 2-3

Trigger angle should not cause a no spark issue. It will just be out of time. If you have power to the coils and your Ignition wires are all hooked up correctly, id check the CAS wiring and all grounds.

 

I'll check grounds. CAS SHOULD be correct, the harness came terminated.

Still wondering what the trigger type needs to be. I've seen that list a few times and used it to clean up the main setup. But there's 3 options for rotary type. Multitooth 24 and 2, rotary 2/3 pulse, rotary 2/3 pulse no home, and rx8. Pretty sure I'm not using rx8 though lol. The list doesn't say anything as far as I can tell what the trigger type needs to be.

 

Multitooth

 

Finally got a good multimeter..
Is it possible the stock coils fried with red and yellow/black being switched?

Looking to see what the cranking volts "should" be.
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Trigger counter is working
leading red wire reads 2.04v key on and 82ish..V cranking.
Yellow/black gets nothing key on or cranking.

.......

-_-

I think I found the problem...
My friggin flying lead is wired upside-down.. brb
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Rewired. Proper color to color. Still no spark though..

 

Don't worry about spark yet. Log "triggers since last home" while cranking. That value should be 12 at all times with the engine turning on a stock CAS or FD crank wheel. RPM should also be 250-350 while cranking. Log those and let us know what you get.

 

Trigger per home is 12
cranking rpm was a little low but I blame that on 11.4v at the battery.

 

Chcekc the ignition fuse. If you don't have battery voltage at the coils, you won't get spark. If the fuse is good, do a continuity test between the relay and the coils.

 

Leading red wire AT coil reads 11.39v key on


....


Well I checked fuses, then checked relay.
Pulled relay off with power on, it clicked open
Put it back on clicked closed. If I put it all the way like it was I'd here another click?? Hmmm..
So I pulled it off again and slid it on just enough to click closed. Had leading harness disconnected trying to get readings key on and cranking.

While cranking it tried to start! ^_^! I cheeped like a child. Not even lying lol. Hooked leading back up and tried again. I was hard to start, I think from sitting for so long. But finally fired and ran for a minute on its own before dying.

Tried again, but I think the battery is too tired. Got it on the charger now. Gonna see here shortly.

It may be because the battery was low. But it seemed like the timing was too advanced. Idk. We'll see on a fresh battery.

 

Have you synched the timing? Need to do that before you try to start it.

 

Well it does matter now. Was running great. Everything was spec. Went to get gas. BABYING it to the shoppette. Put a little premix in the tank just to be safe. I'm talking maybe 2oz. Went to leave, got in the gas just a bit. Just to get up to speed. Nothing crazy or excessive. Let off the gas BOV choo-chood, and the oil sprayed everywhere. Killed it and pulled off immediately to save the engine. Figured a oil line slipped or something. NOPE. Front iron cracked right at the turbo oil feed banjo. I'm sooo dang mad right now. Fresh rebuild. Maybe 500 miles. To ****. Really want to sell this thing now. Ten years down the damn drain. So mad!!!

Thanks everyone for the help. Ran great for 20 mins.

 

Sounds like you detonated it. Sorry to hear it. Probably the last thing you wanna hear, but in the future, it's best to stay in vacuum until you have a tune. The haltech base map is only good enough to get the car started.

You're still not that far from completing the project. I know it's discouraging, but you should just keep on truckin.

Best of luck.

 

Ya that's what I'm thinking. Friggin sucks though.

Stupid parts is. I had PLANNED on running n/a and for whatever reason, probably over excitement I didn't. Live and learn lol.

ugh. Another fail is just hard to swallow. I was looking forward to getting back to work after alot of hospital visits this year riding in the Rex.

IF all components minus the front iron are still in spec, is it possible a rebuild could be done with the existing gaskets being it has less than 500 miles on it and just replace the front iron? This purely hypothetical. Cause I'm sure there's alot that's not happy anymore.
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Guessing you didn't synch the timing like I suggested in post #62?

 

Youre gonna have to pull the engine for sure. Someone correct me if im wrong, but you should be able to just pull the front iron, replace with one in spec, and retorque.

 

That's what I'm hoping for. I'm gonna call Jesse Prather, my builder and see what he thinks. He's my nearest go-to expert. Fingers crossed

 

Good luck